Westbeef

Tried a 7mm Hex? Also an impact driver might help.

They hear mine

Sorry but you weren't helpful, you grabbed his throttle and shot his scooter into oblivion.

I can only see this being an auto for this to happen. If it was someone's scooter then it's pretty obvious what's gonna happen if you grab the throttle. A bit more understandable if it was an auto bike as they're pretty uncommon - but that I'm with the others on not touching others bikes.

What you're reading online is more aimed at how to go quicker round corners, your instructor is teaching you how to be stable round corners .

I'd say two years riding count something... Two years on a 125, it will give you a good idea of what the roads are like but as I mentioned - controlling a bigger bike is quite different at first - you can't just jump on it and do the same things. If you only had to do a Mod 2 then maybe you could teach yourself on private land and get it done but Mod 1 needs some proper tuition. [mention]Joeman[/mention] it's the same test/training on almost identical bikes

Sorry didn't make it lads ended up pretty hammered last night not a fair weather rider though just a lightweight

If you use a split link with the clip over the plates and it's all put together properly then it's just as good as as a riveted plate. You've gotta get a good rivet on the pins or it's gonna be even worse than a clip type. Both have plates with loose fit holes compared to the interference fit of the other links, the only thing is with riveting your own link you can make absolutely sure it's a good rivet - you don't know if someone's machined the groves for the clip wrong on the split type. Rivet probably is better if both done properly, but there's no problem with split links.

I did a year on a 125 every day, I'd say you would need the training on a big bike the power, clutch and throttle controls are all quite different. Also as mentioned you'll struggle to get a bike to do it on, a school won't just loan you a bike. I know it's expensive to do but the training is well worth it.

Hasn't lost the plug has it? If it's coming out that fast it's gonna be missing something or have a serious crack in the case. As for getting it home quicker you'll probably have to pay or just be patient and wait until next week.

Do you know what's causing the leak? Could you let the garage fix it and ride it home?

X-Ring/O-Ring either is fine, X-Ring is often advertised as better. Whether it is or not is probably debatable. Here's a bit of info on em. As for Steel/Aluminium, I assume you mean the bike itself and not the chain. In which case probably aluminium as it won't corrode like Steel will. Mines aluminium and not a speck of rust at 15 years old

If I can make it I'll meet at Tesco as Lymm is well out of my way, I'll update on here before Sunday so you know if I'll be there or not

You could try bump starting it, if it starts and stays on then it's more than likely the battery.

I pinch mine from work and can ride for hours without noticing them. Similar to these https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-1100-Foam-Ear-Plugs/dp/B008MVYL7C Couldn't justify that amount when these work perfectly fine and I get em free.

I've used quite a few different types but never moulded ones, but I see them as a bit of a gimmick - they mould to your ear anyway. Maybe there's something magical I'm missing out on

I paid around £8 for one and it's pretty good off amazon I think in the end.

have you opened the master cylinder?

My ear plugs, honestly. Without them I'm in for a really uncomfortable ride, and I use some cheapo ones from work.

Got most of my stuff off sportsbikeshop, returns process was nice and easy

1500 is ok, I had a quick Google and it seems your bike should idle between 1300-1500, some bikes have an adjustment screw which you can change the idle speed with. However my CBF125 didn't.

The twat who couldn't read the road markings properly and then beeped at me for his incompetence. I seem to get much more road rage on the bike as normally I just ignore turds like this, but I indicated his error by pointing at the lane markings* and calling him a w**ker whilst riding slowly in front of him. I did a rubbish version of a Bonio diagram to aid the description of the incident . We both set off from the lights, I was in lane 2 and he was in lane 1, there's a fair bit of traffic round here currently in the mornings so people are regularly cutting down the 1st lane and moving over to lane 2. I shoulder checked over my left around the area where lane 2 splits into 2 & 3, I saw the culprit he wasn't indicating or making a move over into the lane so I continued to move over for the split. He then decided to beep at me as if I was in the wrong, so I give him a piece of my mind. Yellow indicates where he was beeping at me. http://i.imgur.com/LbAMhlu.jpg Street view of the road, I was in almost the same position as the camera and he was to me left just behind me. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@53.4586553,-2.3384116,3a,75y,47.39h,66.36t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1szOq3SwAaSDtcXBoalentHQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656 *I know they aren't the be all and end all, but I was already ahead of him and in the correct position.

Oh dear http://www.eurosport.com/moto/motorcycling-rossi-breaks-leg-in-training-accident-reports_sto6312267/story.shtml

aw no gutted! You'll smash it next time though

I have some thick weise armoured ones that I wear over normal jeans or pants for work. They're about 100 quid new but good.