Foxy Stoat seeks Pig

you could have a stiff link in the chain

the noise is a continuous clicking though which speeds up the faster I spin the wheel, could that be one stiff link?

The link pipe is the bit that connects your end can to the engine so if your can is on the right side then it won't be that if can on left side it's a poss,looking at that sprocket I,d change it and clean up all the gunk and shit from around it

Ah I see. the exhausts are under seat exhausts.

That pic was a couple of months ago when I had other problems. Its looks a lot cleaner now and all the oily crap has been cleaned.

Pic to front sprocket is in Post 36

https://themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61678&start=30

I have FZ6 S2 it did similar with old chain and sprockets by the time I changed them they where well shot.... Check your chain adjustment I have Scotoiler and have to do mine every 1000 miles or so...

If its FZ6 S2 its real easy to access front sprocket to have a look, 3 allan bolts...

Its a 2004 FZ6, I have checked the front sprocket and looks ok.

1st check if the chain runs over the link pipe to rule pipe to rule that out but would deffo try adjustment any way,as for riding it that's your call but if your not sure leave it until you nail the prob

Ok so first question - what/where is the link pipe?

Ok will try that once I find out how to adjust the chain. Not something I have done before but i need to know.

Would it be ok for a 15 mile commute to work tomorrow? Could take the car, don't really want to but will if needed

Sprocket teeth looks ok . There is movement in the chain but I don't think too much. I haven't adjusted it since I bought it. Just over 1000 miles done.

Sprocket definitely still attached. I check this weekly after a previous breakdown.

Not sure if I can be any more vague but I have noticed a noise , normally when freewheeling down drive or manually moving when engine is off but there is a knocking noise come from around the front sprocket area, however, i don't think its the actual front sprocket itself, sounds more like what it feeds in to. The chain sort of clicks and jumps up and down ever so slightly but it does this in time with the click/knocking noise. Difficult to explain. Chain is lubed.

Has it up on centre stand earlier and moving the wheel by hand but It also happens when engine is running just not as noticeable because of the engine noise but obviously still there.

Appreciate any help - thanks.

Nice one

I was not aware of that. Thanks, will remove the insert before my next evening ride.

 

Remember without it you're probably going to steam up!

Yep. Damned if i do damed if i dont.

I have struggled with the dazzle to be honest. I wear glasses and also have a pinlock insert.

This I think is the problem, Pinlock inserts are not supposed to be worn at night for this very reason and the glasses will add to the problem. Guess how I know?

I was not aware of that. Thanks, will remove the insert before my next evening ride.

I have struggled with the dazzle to be honest. I wear glasses and also have a pinlock insert.

So now I'm wondering if I managed to put the parking lights on by mistake and drained the battery. It's very possible.

 

heeeheeee! I almost did this a while back so always check the rear light now before leaving

Yes now i check, double check and then once more. Something else to be paranoid about rather than my front sprocket dropping out again

Ha , yeah feeling pretty dopey, schoolboy error...bit embarrassing but at least I can pin point a reason now. I won't (I hope) do it again. I still want to wire those grips into a switched live wire though to prevent any future mishaps. Back on the bike tomorrow for work, driving the car today was just so dull.

Possible confession time

Went out earlier to get petrol, stopped at shop and parked up. Just happened to check back on the bike and noticed some lights were left on. Went back to bike and found it has parking lights which is one notch beyond the steering lock. Now I've only recently started to use the steering lock after finally realising how the key works (it's a bit fiddly). So now I'm wondering if I managed to put the parking lights on by mistake and drained the battery. It's very possible.

Great stuff. Thanks all.

So currently fuse is taken out of the grips to avoid any after work unpleasantness. So maybe next weekend I will tackle the relay if I can track down the rear light wire to connect in to.

I think really I'm trying to some some comfort with the idea of riding to and from work again this week

9.8 cranking suggests the battery isn't going to work well next year. Possibly why voltages are up and down

Right, I thought on Friday night I will just buy a new battery and be done with it but then there was the question of the charging system so didn't know if that would be a cure or not.

I susspect that the RAC man checked the battery whilst the engine was not running. A 125 will not have a bunch of electrical power but enough to work the grips whilst the engine is running. Easy enough test to do, lift the seat and gain access to the battery terminal. Get the multi meter put the red lead into the volts DC terminal and the black into negertive or common terminal set the meter dial to 0 to 20 volts DC important. Put the back lead on the -- terminal and the red to + pos and check the voltage. If the battery is charged you should get a reading of 12volts. If this so all good, next step start the motor and again test acrosss the battery as before and note the voltage this time it should should be higher 13 volts or higher. This will indicate that the charging system is working. Next step is to test the electric charge withe the electric loaded. So now switch on the lights heated grips and check the charge voltage again, you might notice the voltage has dropped below 12volts if the motor is on tick over secure the test leads to the battery and increase the revs and see if the voltage increases if it does all well and good just take note if your trip keeps you for long times in standing traffic you might need to give the battery a top up chage at home now and to compensate

The voltage numbers do correspond with what you have said and it does just drop below 12v with full beam on but over 12v with dipped beam, I wouldn't say I really sit in traffic for a great deal of time. Would using an Optimate be an idea? something I was looking at getting anyway.

so idle starts at 14.01 but steadily drops to about 12.30 which is a constant. if I put full beam on (RAC guy did this) its drops to a constant of 11.89. this is all with no revs. increase the revs and the voltage increases.

All looks fine from here

although the idle should really be steady and not jumping from 12.81 - 14.01

Thanks, well that could be me I guess, I need more hands so the probes might have been moving. I will check idle speed again to see if it's constant. Other than that does it all look ok and not too low. Just trying to eliminate why I had a dead battery. May have been the heated grips being switched on.

If it is I need to sort that relay but I want to iron this out first.

Ok here goes:

Key out - 12.14

Key in(ignition on) - 11.84

When starting - 9.88

After start - 12.69 - 14.01

5k revs - 14.01

Idle speed - 12.81 - 14.01

Got one!! no idea how to use it though.about 20 different settings and 3 ports but only two leads

sounds like the bike is charging to me

does Mr RAC man know what he is doing?

Not sure but I'm taking the car to screwfix just in case.

Also a 20min ride home last night