fastbob

The maker of that video must have edited out at least an hour of f*****g about ! One minute he's talking about it , the next, hey presto ! all four plugs are neatly laid out on his spotless carpet tiles. Slightly off topic but on the subject of making videos, there is a guy who has a channel "2 wheel obsession" that is about FJR 1300s. Some good stuff, BUT you could cut at least 30 minutes out of each video as he fecks about rummaging about for and fetching tools that could have been at his fingertips. On one video about removing the side covers we were treated to about a 10 minute discussion on the different side cover colour schemes that are available in the US, Canada, Europe, etc. etc. etc. - all the while just looking at the damn things, and NOT removing them. So sometimes brevity is best! But the guy completely omitted the entire plug removal process including the particularly troublesome No.2 plug .

The maker of that video must have edited out at least an hour of f*****g about ! One minute he's talking about it , the next, hey presto ! all four plugs are neatly laid out on his spotless carpet tiles. YES. And that is what is so frustrating. He must have managed to get them out, and it can’t have been that easy. I will try and post a video Have you seen what else I've posted ?

Found this ..Thanks Joe, I figured it out, as I went back out and looked underneath the frame an found that there is a cutout in the frame for the coils to slide past. Courtesy of Texas Riders . I also found this ( hope I'm not in violation of any rules here )

The maker of that video must have edited out at least an hour of f*****g about ! One minute he's talking about it , the next, hey presto ! all four plugs are neatly laid out on his spotless carpet tiles.

Hi mate, have you got it now ? I only ask because a number of us have been to some trouble to help you out here but so far you have not confirmed your understanding. Thanks.

This sort of thing is one reason I'm still looking at getting a Harley. Admittedly I don't have a water pump stuck on top of my engine on the GSXR but a job like a plug change is still a massive pain in the arse. EDIT : I thought so , all that gubbins on top of the engine isn't the actual water pump, that's down below and driven off the engine the same as on my bike . I do have a tip for getting the new plugs back in , I stick them into a length of rubber tube then dangle and twiddle until the threads engage . When they do , I pull the tube off and finish the job with the extended box spanner supplied by Suzuki.

I've had plenty of opportunities to put both of my GSXR 1100s on a free Dyno but I've always chickened out. I just don't think I could bear to watch or listen. I nearly got round to it but a V-Max spat all it's oil all over the dyno before my go .

As previously mentioned, it depends entirely upon what you are seeking to achieve. Why not toss a coin instead ? ( Or why not trust the manufacturer to have set the bike up for optimum performance ? )

I'm waiting for my manual cam chain tensioner to arrive . I've ordered a British made one rather than one of those coloured ones from China.

Now you've gone and done it, we'll have to have the whole " Can I charge my phone when I'm riding along without it blowing up " debate all over again. I've just got a fag lighter style socket from Poundland with a couple of washers soldered on the wires and stuck under the battery bolts . It cost a pound.

I must be missing something here. Why not just stick the opimate lead on the battery and have the charging port in it's waterproof rubber cover hanging out wherever you want it ? As previously mentioned, why buy a converter when you could avoid all this hassle by simply buying the correct lead ? It started out as me wanting to charge a phone whilst riding. I was caught out with a phone that went flat using Google maps. So I got told that the existing socket on my bike was an optimate, but with an old-style TM plug. I then googled tm to usb and the optimate lead such a search returns is in 2 parts: TM to SAE, which we're discussing here, then SAE TO USB which I have to say is lovely and watertight. Exhibit A: https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/o100-tm-usb-charger It didn't dawn on me at the point of ordering said lead, to wonder if the TM/SAE end was also waterproof. With the benefit of hindsight... It then, upon receipt and fitting, did occur to me to question the robustness of this. It seemed an innocent and reasonable thing to wonder, if the TM SAE connection, because its so solid, is also able to survive exposure to the elements. Rather than finding out the hard way when my phone wouldn't charge, say, I posed this question instead to the assembled lynch party here in all good faith. I was hoping for a "yeah its good enough to last as it is", with a worse case answer being "get some heatshrink/tape/etc over it" I didn't expect the Spanish Inquisition but I take full responsibility for the situation and having discarded the package I guess I have to make the best of it. . My bad. Mate, nobody expects the Spanish inquisition !

I must be missing something here. Why not just stick the opimate lead on the battery and have the charging port in it's waterproof rubber cover hanging out wherever you want it ? As previously mentioned, why buy a converter when you could avoid all this hassle by simply buying the correct lead ?

Sounds like you're asking permission, if you want to tape it up or heat shrink it just go ahead , what's the worst that can happen ? I was asking if that style of connection needed waterproofing but yeah I could just cover it in insulation tape Enjoy, remember to tuck the end under on the roll so you can find it next time.

Sounds like you're asking permission, if you want to tape it up or heat shrink it just go ahead , what's the worst that can happen ?

The OTHER end . Like the OP says , the WHITE end at the bottom of the picture.

While I was cycling the length of the outer Hebrides my bicycle chain became very dry but I didn't have any chain lube . Then I remembered that I had a bottle of Avon Skin So Soft, the world famous midge repellent , a few squirts and all was well , good anti fling qualities and a lovely smell .

It's the emblem from the primary chain case of a Higginbottom and Grimble " Peerless Gadabout " ( Clubman's edition ) produced in small numbers around 1923 in Budleigh Salterton . Like many manufactures of the period this established surgical appliance makers foray into the world of motorcycle design was short lived despite an aggressive advertising campaign aimed mainly at members of the clergy . Their slogan " If Christ rode a a bike " failed to generate sales and the company faded into the pages of history. And that's that.

Is this any better ? I forgot that it was a screenshot of a PDF , I keep all my manuals in my phone but of course I can zoom in on a PDF . I can read this on a standard phone but it helps if you rotate to landscape configuration. Thats looks the same as I posted above thanks Bob. Well I don't know then , I'm reading it perfectly easily on my phone right now . Never mind, Bender's link in post #16 explains it brilliantly .

Is this any better ? I forgot that it was a screenshot of a PDF , I keep all my manuals in my phone but of course I can zoom in on a PDF . I can read this on a standard phone but it helps if you rotate to landscape configuration.

Most manufactures recommend 10/40 engine oil but I do like the idea of using gear oil .

Yeah, it was going along nicely up to a point, or should that be a full stop ?

It's an overflow tank IF your coolant expands or boils and its also a top up or reservoir. Fluids always find their lowest level so if you take off the body work and look at the bike from the side it will become clear to you how the system works. Maybe this will help . Notice that Kawasaki call it a Reserve Tank and not an Overflow Tank . Sorry Bob, is it Bob? The only way coolant can return to the system as I see it is if there is a one way valve in the radiator cap that works when the pressure cap is on its seat. If this is the case then I have never seen or heard of such a thing. They say you learn something new every day. john Cheers John , you can call me Bob if you like . Have you read the text ? Apparently it is not a one way valve, it is a two way valve . Have another read . Bear in mind this is just my ER5, other bikes may differ but I think the general principal is probably the same .Tis is my bike , just to confuse matters I have bypassed my carb heating system.

What does the Honda Workshop Manual have to say about how the system works ?

It's an overflow tank IF your coolant expands or boils and its also a top up or reservoir. Fluids always find their lowest level so if you take off the body work and look at the bike from the side it will become clear to you how the system works. Maybe this will help . Notice that Kawasaki call it a Reserve Tank and not an Overflow Tank .

Oh my god you used an incorrect punctuation mark.... And you spotted it before Speedy !