fastbob

http://i.imgur.com/qi1xECa.png

Thanks Bob! I don't even know what a tappet is. I'll get to reading!

 

This wouldn't be a bad place to start http://i.imgur.com/2AR196f.png

Sounds ok to me. There called tappets for a reason, they tap. Better a loose tappet than a tight one.

I'm getting some heated gloves this year.

Grips are alright for palms but do naff all for fingers.

 

Good luck with that, when I was in the bike accessories business we had nothing but trouble with heated gloves. We sold a high end brand the name of which escapes me but I think almost every pair was returned knackered sooner or later. Waistcoats and socks were equally troublesome, I think the heating elements just weren't flexible enough to withstand everyday stresses.

Gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "Nipples like bullets"

 

I prefer the traditional meaning.

Why not just solder the wires then insulate with heat shrink tubing ?

I wonder if someone has already wrecked the thread and bodged it by using an imperial threaded bolt instead .

May even save the odd badger.

 

Is badger bashing a common occurrence? Imagine the biker wont come off well in a high speed badger impact. lol

 

I do see a lot of dead ones on my travels and you wouldn't want to hit one at speed because they are pretty solid.

You want your exhaust to make a bit of noise because its easier to be mentally in tune with your bike when you can hear what it's saying to you rather than looking down at the clocks . Plus if its a bit shagged you don't worry about the rattles so much. Also good for dispersing sheep on remote Welsh roads or discouraging deer from dashing in front of you . May even save the odd badger.

And also check that the caliper "floats" correctly......I've seen them where the pins that the caliper floats on are completely seized. I'd be inclined to remove the caliper and give it a thorough overhaul.....

Pads seem to depend on whether it is a double sided swing arm or single sided......For reference....http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator?block_01=&block_02=100066663-0-2&block_03=13108

Very good point, it IS a floating caliper so it needs to move freely on the pins .

If one pad is worn more than the other then I suggest that your caliper needs a proper overhaul . This means pistons right out , seals out and all the muck removed from the grooves that they sit in. New seals are only needed if the old ones are damaged. As for pads just use EBC or DP pads or whatever you prefer. If you can't find the right ones then find a bike garage with an EBC catalogue as this contains life size drawings of every pad there is. Just place the old pads over the drawing. You might want to get some PTFE tape incase the threads that the bleed nipples go into have become stretched and some Red Rubber grease.

Redemption! Fitted a new clutch, changed the oil, went back to that bloody hill and conquered it. This time I went M42,M5 & M50 to Monmouth then Abergavenny , Brecon,Builth Wells , Beulah , Tregaron , Aberystwyth then A44 all the way home. Once again the A44 was empty on a Saturday evening but much more fun with a clutch! I have to say Abergavenny to Builth Wells is a great bit of near perfect biking road, can't wait to go there again but maybe next time I'll take the GSXR.

Its not stuck on but putting choke on stalls the engine, even at 5am it starts without the choke perfectly, so could be something wrong there.....

 

Starting easily without choke suggests that the bike is already partially choked by.....a dirty air filter. So have you tried running with no filter as I previously mentioned to see if there is any improvement ?

Is the choke stuck on ?

hi, they shouldn't really get stuck, take out the two bolts on l/h side of motor, then just wiggle it free pulling to l/h side, if you have any w/d forty, then spray close to r/h end where it goes in engine, may help O ring, to loosen up. ok

 

That's all sound advice but the motor is probably driving a little sprocket and chain that is presumably concealed beneath an engine side casing. This will have to be exposed for reassembly so its probably best to have a look before pulling the motor out just to get an idea where everything sits.

Right, ignore that , I've had a look at the parts drawing and it looks like its all gear driven so no loose sprockets or chains to worry about as far as I can see. So wiggle and pull like Oldgrump correctly advised.

hi, they shouldn't really get stuck, take out the two bolts on l/h side of motor, then just wiggle it free pulling to l/h side, if you have any w/d forty, then spray close to r/h end where it goes in engine, may help O ring, to loosen up. ok

 

That's all sound advice but the motor is probably driving a little sprocket and chain that is presumably concealed beneath an engine side casing. This will have to be exposed for reassembly so its probably best to have a look before pulling the motor out just to get an idea where everything sits.

Has it always done this or is this something new ? Was it suddenly like this or was the onset gradual ? Have you changed anything however insignificant before this happened ? These are all questions that need to be asked before anyone can even begin to diagnose a fault. If you want a pure guess though I'd start by replacing the air filter. You could do a crude test by removing the filter and going for a wiz round the block. If there is an improvement you might be on the right track. On a lighter note , it takes some balls to admit to owning a Chinese bike on this forum. Hats off to you sir and welcome.

I once put a £20 standard heavy duty chain on a GSXR 1100 because I was skint at the time. I kept it well lubed and it didn't stretch or break. Makes me wonder why I bother spending £ 120 on a DID ZVMX Gold "Professional" X ring chain these days. One thing I have experienced is that O rings and X rings can fool you into believing that a totally knackered chain has nothing wrong with it by making it run smoothly and quietly long past the point at which it should have been replaced. Lets be honest, who removes a chain to inspect it for wear once it has been riveted?

Be careful what you watch on YouTube. I would not use just "any old grease" as some will eat your seals. I would not advise using a clamp either. Would be so easy to get the piston stuck.

Sounds like you are not pushing the piston in straight.

 

You can use caliper grease or "red rubber grease" but the factory workshop manuals for many bikes specify the use of brake fluid only as an aid to reassembly. This is because some friction is necessary between the seal and piston as the distortion of the seal assists in the return action. If you read my posts near the end of the thread"Brake lever travel" however, you will see that I am contradicting myself. Despite my understanding of the theory of the above, I could only get my rear caliper to stop sticking by applying caliper grease. Sometimes the truth is somewhere in the middle.

You could be right, if its slanted only slightly it won't go back in . I wouldn't use a g-clamp , two strong thumbs is usually enough to push a piston in. You could try opening the master cylinder reservoir but these usually have a rubber bellows and a tiny vent to allow expansion and contraction whilst sealing out contamination. Did you completely remove the piston ? I ask because simply pumping it out a bit to clean it doesn't really get to the heart of the matter. Ideally you need to get it right out so that you can remove the seals and clean out the dirt that accumulates behind them. You should take great care to note which way up the seals were so that they go back in the right way round. Not all seals have a right way round but this method eliminates guesswork. There are some good youtube videos on caliper rebuilding that you may find useful.

Is this with the engine running or static ?

If it is the pilot air screw that has been blanked off then gaining access to it may help to set the idle speed. But as previously stated great care is needed so as not to damage the screw underneath. This procedure is sometimes required with certain Dynojet kits so it is possible.

I have been playing with carb to try get it to tic over with no joy would it be wise to take out welch plugs to further adjust

 

Well thanks for that, I've learned something new today. Having googled it I now know what a welch plug is. Sorry, I can't answer your question because I don't know why you would need to remove the said plugs to adjust tick over but I wouldn't have thought so.

Please post a detailed close up picture of the detached wire so we can get a better idea what's involved.

Well good luck with that, I expect the queue will be backed up all the way to Derby.

 

Piece of piss as I got there for 9am , you're right for everyone else cos by 11 it was rammed

 

Good thinking. I actually went there once when this really happened. A Range rover had broken down right in the middle of the parade . Despite many offers by various groups of bikers to push it onto the wide pavement next to the river the police said that they couldn't allow it because it was a health and safety issue ! As a result there was stationary traffic for miles in all directions including right back as far as Derby. It was a very hot day and my bike got so hot that something melted and I couldn't turn the ignition off.