fastbob

Just an afterthought, when I first got my bike there was another rattle or more of a buzz type noise that only occurred when riding slowly or stopped with the engine at idle.It took me ages to find it . As I recall I spent a lot of time hitting various parts of the bike with a rubber mallet until I eventually tracked it down. It was the radiator fan motor of all things. To cure it I remember taking it apart and bending one of the shim washers slightly so that it acted like a spring. This stopped the shaft moving backwards and forwards and completely cured the rattle / buzz . Probably irrelevant but you never know.

Could be in your head, literally. Your inner ear acts in conjunction with the visual senses so the slightest imperfection could produce the illusion that your bike is not perpendicular to the ground. I used to experience this annoying sensation from time to time back in the days when I used to drink and smoke and weigh 23 stone . Now that I'm 13 stone , don't drink or smoke and generally look after myself I don't experience this sensation anymore.

Have you looked ? To be honest its no good a bunch of people on a forum offering suggestions because you're going to have to remove the wheel and inspect the shoes anyway. I don't mean to be unhelpful, and I'm sure you'll figure it out , good luck.

Cheers for clearing that up . I reckon if I do replace the cam chain I'll probably use a DID or RK one with a soft link. That way if I'm not happy I can get another link and have another go. It's not something I want to be worrying about at 150 mph. I'm definitely going to do the shims this winter. Once this is done and the carbs are properly balanced I wouldn't be surprised if the rattles go away due to the engine running at a more constant speed. How clearly are the shims marked by the way? Do you think I should invest in a micrometer just incase?

When you say just split and re join a genuine cam chain I'm not sure what you mean . Are you suggesting that Suzuki will supply a rivet link or a special link with non hardened pins that can be flanged with a chain riveting tool. I don't think they do because this not a recommended procedure. I've fitted a few aftermarket cam chains and some of them were supplied with rivet links but I've never been comfortable doing this. Anyway, here's my GSX 1100 that I had 20 years ago. Clearly we share excellent taste in motorcycles.http://i.imgur.com/TBHbLAo.png

A glittering noise ?

Thanks for such a detailed reply. I'm going to take the advice to re set all valve clearances when the bike comes off the road this winter. As for the cam chain I just don't have the facilities. I'm assuming that by genuine you mean fitting an endless chain which involves engine removal and a total strip down to the point of crank shaft removal. I've built a GSXR 1100 L model engine years ago but I'm just not feeling up for it again. So I'll have to leave the chain for now. Similarly, I'll probably not be replacing the tensioner mainly because I can't see what could wear out on it. It's just a ratchet and a plunger after all. It's perhaps worth mentioning that I have owned this bike for 38,000 miles and it only had 4000 on it when I got it. I've never thrashed it ( much ) and its had a good quality oil and filter change every year . Thanks once again , much appreciated.

Ah ha! got it , I thought you were going to all that trouble to get part 8 out ! Well done by the way , other than the way you did it how does Honda describe extracting the outer race ? When you put it all back together have you considered putting the bearing in the freezer and heating the bearing holder? Might make things easier. Good luck with the rest of the project.

Yep , I've changed back to PR2s from PR3s . I didn't see the point of the slashes or "sips" as I believe they are known as I don't have to ride in the rain . Just been out for a 120 mile blast around Warwickshire and Gloucestershire on mostly empty roads . The bike is going great but every time I pull up there's that bloody rattle ! Couple of questions, how frequently do you balance your carbs ? At what mileage have your valve clearances been checked and , if necessary, shimmed ? I've been putting off the latter for far too long. I did check clearances once and decided they were acceptable but I recon they do need doing soon.

Nice,here's my slightly modified 93 just after I'd cleaned and polished it.http://i.imgur.com/NFw1NZX.jpg

Very fine indeed. How has it managed to remain in such good condition?

Only 2 left ! More curious now , haven't you had this thing out in the original set of pictures? http://i.imgur.com/9X04Mkq.png

Right, I've got it , its part number 8, bearing holder. Still can't see why you needed to remove it yet.http://i.imgur.com/EgskISO.png

So that thing in the last four pictures that looks like a dish ? It's not a bearing so why did you need to remove it? Where are you going to get a replacement? I'm not saying you don't know what you are doing , I'm just curious.

Hi, Fastbob I've got the same rattle only on tick over

and its less when the lights are on had my geny out and like yours all free and quiet. Have you had the top casing off yet to have a look for the cause.

Hi , thanks for the interest, no not yet but it's on the to do list. Can you post a pic of your bike here? You don't see many around these days so its great to hear from a fellow owner.

Excellent bike, love the original Bandit. Suzuki have messed with it so much nowadays that its evolved back into a GSXR.

No worries, you could use one of these kits to make the starter motor as good as new. Not bad for the money.http://i.imgur.com/FyU8qVJ.png

It's a starter motor problem. Knocking it with a hammer a couple times got it starting normally again. A new battery can't do any harm but still annoying!

Knocking it moves around the pile of carbon dust moving around inside . All you have to do is take it off,open it up, remove the crap , polish the copper bits with very fine emery then put it back together. This will take two hrs tops . The videos I suggested earlier in this thread will help.

Sorry, I've no idea what mechanics charge per hour these days. The cost of parts depends on wether they use genuine Honda or not . There are millions of Chinese CG lookalikes out there so replica parts are cheap but it is up to your mechanic. I know that Wemoto do starter motor service kits for some bikes so worth a look.http://i.imgur.com/9mT6tV0.png

Very often all you need to do is open up the starter motor and give everything a good clean but this is not a job for a beginner. You can't just unbolt it without first removing the engine side cover to get at the cog or sprocket that drives the crank. Then you should fit a fresh gasket. There's bound to be a youtube video on it.

Some car exhaust fitters have a machine that bends and swages pipe. I'd probably swage the cheapest bit just in case. This place has such a machine.http://i.imgur.com/wgblTOB.png

Good on ya kid, you must have some sense of humour.

 

Now if you shoe horned an ER5 engine in there.....

 

It would still be f***ing hilarious!

There's nothing new http://i.imgur.com/uA6HMm6.png

Being seen and seeing ahead are two different things. LEDs seem very directional so no amount of them are going to work . A conventional filament lamp throws light in all directions but the parabolic shape of the reflector captures it and projects it in one directionhttp://i.imgur.com/uqwnAdb.png.

No this is the 'chopper' version, 4-stroke with straight 4 gearing like this....

http://mesters-motor-shop.dk/images/19218002_1-p.jpg

 

Good on ya kid, you must have some sense of humour.

Now if you shoe horned an ER5 engine in there.....

Hi,

I have a small 50cc 4 stroke bike with a very annoying clutch problem. The clutch simply won't engage, I can start the bike up pull in the clutch and stick it in 1st at which point I'll be rocketed forward as the clutch isn't doing anything. At first I thought it might be an adjustment issue, I've adjusted it for hours with no luck, stuck clutch plates? I thought, so I opened it up, removed the clutch disassembled the clutch and the plates are fine not stuck at all, reassembled and it still doesn't work. For the life of me I can't figure out why it's not working, the actuator arm is moving and doing it's job, everything is free and moving as it should.

Any ideas?

You mean disengage surely?