fastbob

Wow, that looks like it's been very hot indeed, I wonder what effect this has had on the rubber cush drive ?

My vote is for a new shock, when I replaced my knackered shock on my B12 is was like day & night

I'm thinking the same myself. I've had an offer from one company to assess the shock with no obligation to go any further if its not going to be worth it. Still going to cost me £20 postage. How about YSS shocks ? Any good ? I presume a b12 is a 1200 Bandit.

It is a 2015 (65 plate) Honda cb125f Millage approx 12,500

Right... so its not a new bike , sorry but when you mentioned a warranty claim I wrongly assumed it was brand new bike. My mistake.

I would look at stripping and cleaning the carbs to start with as you may have a bit of shite in there

These are also prone to hot start problems too but the way you describe it I don't think its that

I does sound to me like the engine isn't turning over fast enough too

So maybe the starter motor is back in the frame ?

Ahh... So it does turn over , sorry ignore starter motor theory.

Given the intermittent nature of the fault I'll take an educated guess at this one . I reckon you have a build up of carbon dust and muck inside your starter motor. Strip it down and give the commutator plates a buff up with very fine wet and dry paper ( 2500 grade ) and it should be fine.

Looking for a bit of advice . The monoshock on my 93 GSXR 1100 WP has lost nearly all damping effect so I'm considering my options. Hopefully it just needs re gassing and re oiling ( there are no visible oil leaks ) but it might need a lot more work . I won't know until I send it away to be examined . I've been quoted £220 for a full refurbishment which is the worst case scenario but as I say it hopefully won't come to that. Has anyone been in a similar situation and what was the outcome? Can anyone recommend a good UK company that specializes in this type of work ? OR has anyone got a decent shock for sale that will fit ? As you may have gathered I don't have tons of cash to spend so the cheapest solution would be preferable. Thanks.

DKWYOA.

hahahahahaha

boring real answer: it's short for voicemail

Right, and aa means AA as in the Automobile Association.

@fastbob I have done everything they told me to do they left me a vm saying oil below dipstick right then when the aa came to look at it there was oil on it so im sure what gone on there tbh.

Firstly, as previously mentioned by Westbeef ,it would be very helpful if you applied some basic grammar to your sentences. I am not familiar with the abbreviations VM and AA so I don't really know what you are talking about. I can only repeat the the advice that has been given in this and in other similar threads. If you buy faulty goods whether it be a motorbike or an electric toothbrush, take it back to the shop and exchange it for one that is not faulty. It is not your responsibility to fix it .

If this is a new bike from a Honda dealer and it doesn't work take it back . When you get a replacement have a read of the Breaking In Procedure section of the users manual. I can see the dealers point of view here , you must be doing something wrong to cause a brand new Honda to suffer major mechanical failure twice . It is actually a real Honda isn't it ? Not a Hongda .

Nice,only colour scheme for me too. These beautiful beasts are still in a class of their own.

Is there an extra fuse on the starter solenoid ? Usually a 30 amp.

Sounds like a good plan. Here's a CG I re built years ago. If I remember correctly the engine is the original 1976 bottom end with a Brazilian top end. I remember also that this one could hit 75 mph . I think the original '76 model had a bigger carb.http://i.imgur.com/wLIvQn4.jpg

I guess you will need a selection of main jets and a lot of patience because trial and error is about the only way your going to get it right. Have you considered starting with a brand new carb as a starting point. You can get a decent pattern carb for as little as £13 . Work on one thing at a time starting with the main jet only. Once you have the best jet size you can tweak the other variables such as needle height. I wouldn't worry too much about the pilot jet as this is mostly influential on slow speed running only. If you try to fiddle with everything all at once you'll be lucky to get anywhere. Lastly, have you considered a foam filter instead of a K&N style one ? might be less sensitive to turbulence. Good luck.

I don't see why not to be honest

I agree, I think its just there to maintain a bit of tension to stop the cable popping out of it's slot. Wouldn't think its a return spring as such , the clutch springs take care of that. I would make sure that the cable is free moving and well lubricated though.

I've sorted it now, cleaned all the clutch plates adjusted clutch and it goes into 1st like normal now

Next job is cleaning the carb out and then finding the right jets for a pod filter

So did you find everyone's suggestions and advice useful or would you have figured it out for yourself ?

WHAt do you mean turn it over by hand-I can turn the flywheel with no issues

You must have strong hands then unless the spark plug is out .

I don't think CG 125s have a CV carb , none of the ones I have rebuilt did . Regarding jets , do you want to know what make or more probably what size ? The make is fairly irrelevant at this level of tuning so buy a wide selection and try them all and stick with the one that makes the bike run best or least worse .

I was going to say use a block of wood between the tyre and subframe but it seams you have figured it out

Not me , some clever bloke on Youtube called Scott Elliot.

Errm sorry folks but I've found the solution straight away on Youtube. So I'll take this opportunity to pass it on instead. All you do is put the bike on the paddock stand , loosen all the bolts then put a car scissor jack and a block of wood ON TOP of the tyre then use it to push the wheel down . When the load is removed the shock can be removed without any bother. So simple but I probably wouldn't have thought of this myself. http://i.imgur.com/uMAmqMm.png

How do I go about removing the rear shock on my gsxr 1100 WP with very limited facilities? Any tips on how to support the bike when the shock is sent away for repair? All I've got is a rear paddock stand but I guess that won't help much. I have no overhead beam or winch . Ideas / experiences please.

Check your clutch? As for the sand box can I bring my toy digger to play in sand box haha

And I wouldn't do that after my cats been there first.

I think rec reg too, I sold more pattern rec regs ( Electrex ) for Hondas than for any other bikes by far when I worked in the bike trade . So many in fact that we always kept a supply in stock . RR58 £65

Yeah it's a fully enclosed chain mate

The problem I'm having and I'll do my best to explain. Basically when I tried to just roll the bike it's really hard to roll it and the flywheel sticks and then unstick sandbox sticks again. And then when I try to push the kickstart down it's really hard and then goes down but does leave me with enough kick down

Does that make any sense

Did it make sense to you when you read it back ? Sandbox ??