fastbob

I don't know about the ES model specifically, I've only re built Jap and Brazilian CGs but I do know that CGs are extremely sensitive to changes to the airbox . On Brazilian models there is an insignificant bit of plastic that forms a sort of shield around the scoop on the airbox. Leave this off and the bike runs rough except on a bit of choke. Hard to believe but true. On very early Jap models it was made of metal and was actually part of the seat base. Have a look at the parts diagrams if you can it might be as simple as that. Pic to follow , I've got one in my scrap collection somewhere.

Had another look, your side cases look fine so just do the rest and put them back afterwards.

I know you don't want to take the engine out but you couldn't have chosen an easier bike to do it on. This is how I used to do up CG engines. Remove the engine. Paint Nitromors paint remover all over to remove any old paint or laquer . Attack the barrel and crankcase with a stiff wire brush but do the side cases with wire wool. When it looks as good as you can get it , de grease it all with cheap brake cleaner and spray paint it with hi temp silver paint. Now here's the real trick. So that it doesn't look shite you ideally need to do the side cases separately in a different type of silver i.e. Satin or gloss. Then replace every screw with an Allen bolt preferably in black. Here's one i did a few years ago that looked much worse than yours does. http://i.imgur.com/cJBDoS8.jpg Black with polished side cases would look even better. Alternatively.....( unless your selling it )......don't bother.

Can you post a picture please so I can get a better idea what you need to do ?

It's retro. Innit. It is retrospective, is it not ? Indeed a homage to those halcyon days when a neatly bandaged exhaust pipe was considered the epitome of automotive chic . At last I understand . And to think that I once thought it was pointless and shit .

And on a cg125 ?

Has anyone had a problem with this stuff? The type I bought is translucent green with Ariete , made in Italy printed on it . After six months this formerly pliable tubing has gone rock hard so that when I disconnected it and tried to re connect it I ended up with a slow fuel leak . I've looked extensively on line and I can't find a bad word said against it. Can't just be me can it ?

I never knew that, I didn't think the fluid sucked the pistons away, but I just assumed the pads remained in contact with the disc, just with no pressure on them. I didn't know either until recently , the matter came to light on an earlier post on this very forum entitled Brake Lever Travel. You are right, the pads do seem to remain in contact with the disks, you can hear them when you push the bike. This picture illustrates it quite well.http://i.imgur.com/c9zHdHJ.png

If you were able to re fit the rubber diaphragms in both master cylinders without the fluid overflowing then there should be enough room for the fluid to move back and forth. There should be a tiny air vent to the side of the master cylinder covers to allow this to happen. Bear in mind that very little fluid actually moves, its more like a liquid push rod that multiplies the force exerted by your fingers using hydraulic principles. As I said , in my experience, poorly operating brakes is very often down to debris known as mineralization that accumulates behind the caliper seals making them grip the pistons too tightly. Oddly enough, it is the elasticity of the seals themselves and not the action of the master cylinder that retracts the pistons a minute amount away from the disks.

Sounds like its time to split the calipers and clean out all the crud behind the seals or better still fit new ones. You will be amazed at the difference this makes.

Can anyone tell me what exhaust wrap is actually supposed to do ?

I did a tour of Scotland with my bike in this condition. I just changed up from first to third but it was an 1100 with plenty of power.

I've been reading so many different threads and everyone is suggesting different things to replace when this happens. I guess until I either pull it apart or pay someone to do it I won't know for 100% what needs to be replaced. Now I need to decide if I try and pull it apart myself or not I did mine myself, you don't have to touch the top end and you may be able to cut a few corners such as leaving the clutch in place. I bet its just one selector fork that's worn i.e. the one that pushes 2nd gear. You will need some Suzuki Bond jointing compound to re seal the crankcase halves.

Not worn dogs it's a worn selector fork. I say this some certainty because my old gsxr 1100 had exactly the same symptoms. So the good news is that its not going to be too expensive and the bad news is that its an engine out and partial strip down.

Glad its all sorted. I think that as much as we all love bikes it is sometimes a good idea to take a step back and regard them as just another consumer product. I have seen too many posts especially from new riders where they have been treated badly by dealers just because it is a bike that has gone wrong. If were a fridge that wasn't cold or a toaster that didn't make toast or a washing machine that leaked you would get an instant replacement. If its a bike on the other hand , you get fobbed off with all kinds of nonsense and can be made to feel responsible for it going wrong. I think they play on your strong feelings of attachment to the bike .

Which country do you live in ?

I wouldn't even do that , just point to the oil leak and let them figure it out otherwise they might suspect that you have been fiddling with something that you shouldn't have been fiddling with .

So now you just remove the plug or whatever, and let it drain out onto the ground. If that is your choice yes . I suppose its to prevent the roads becoming soaked in oil which may seem like a bit of an exaggeration but if you imagine somewhere like China where there are millions of these small bikes then maybe not. That's why a lot of bikes are fitted with a breather system that feeds oil vapour back into the airbox to be burned off. The check pipe is just like a mini catch tank that needs emptying occasionally because some of the vapour will cling to the inside of the airbox and dribble down.

1/ its condensed oil vapour from the crank case breather emulsified with moisture and nothing to worry about unless it is excessive. The reason you have to clean it out is that in the past it just dropped onto the ground but now it is against anti pollution laws. 2/ the click is probably the sound of the switch on the starter lockout system. Adjust the clutch so that you are comfortable riding the bike. 3/the idle speed looks steady enough to me so don't worry about that either.

Post a close up picture of them from a side view and I'll tell you if they are worn out. If , as you describe, there is a metal to metal grinding noise I would have thought it would be fairly obvious if they were worn out.

Just an afterthought, when I first got my bike there was another rattle or more of a buzz type noise that only occurred when riding slowly or stopped with the engine at idle.It took me ages to find it . As I recall I spent a lot of time hitting various parts of the bike with a rubber mallet until I eventually tracked it down. It was the radiator fan motor of all things. To cure it I remember taking it apart and bending one of the shim washers slightly so that it acted like a spring. This stopped the shaft moving backwards and forwards and completely cured the rattle / buzz . Probably irrelevant but you never know.

Could be in your head, literally. Your inner ear acts in conjunction with the visual senses so the slightest imperfection could produce the illusion that your bike is not perpendicular to the ground. I used to experience this annoying sensation from time to time back in the days when I used to drink and smoke and weigh 23 stone . Now that I'm 13 stone , don't drink or smoke and generally look after myself I don't experience this sensation anymore.

Have you looked ? To be honest its no good a bunch of people on a forum offering suggestions because you're going to have to remove the wheel and inspect the shoes anyway. I don't mean to be unhelpful, and I'm sure you'll figure it out , good luck.

Cheers for clearing that up . I reckon if I do replace the cam chain I'll probably use a DID or RK one with a soft link. That way if I'm not happy I can get another link and have another go. It's not something I want to be worrying about at 150 mph. I'm definitely going to do the shims this winter. Once this is done and the carbs are properly balanced I wouldn't be surprised if the rattles go away due to the engine running at a more constant speed. How clearly are the shims marked by the way? Do you think I should invest in a micrometer just incase?

When you say just split and re join a genuine cam chain I'm not sure what you mean . Are you suggesting that Suzuki will supply a rivet link or a special link with non hardened pins that can be flanged with a chain riveting tool. I don't think they do because this not a recommended procedure. I've fitted a few aftermarket cam chains and some of them were supplied with rivet links but I've never been comfortable doing this. Anyway, here's my GSX 1100 that I had 20 years ago. Clearly we share excellent taste in motorcycles.http://i.imgur.com/TBHbLAo.png