fastbob

Just so you know what is actually involved I thought you might like to google this. It's the one in the middle that says fork oil and seals. It's a very impressive posting illustrated with many detailed photographs. Don't let this bad experience put you off,we all have to learn somehow. Why not get some scrap forks from a breakers and take them apart just for the experience? http://i.imgur.com/bd50pB3.png

Jolly good, carry on then.

Exactly what bike is this ? Cant see any details in post. Are you following a manual? I only ask because I can't see why you are trying to dig the seals out BEFORE you have separated the lowers from the stanchions. This is a very unusual way of doing things . Regarding fork seal retaining clips they usually consist of a wavey wire ring that does not require circlip pliers to remove. Let us know the bike and I'll check the manual.

Ahh..the little roads right next to the motorway (m74) I.e the B7076 & B7078 were going to be a major part of my plan. I take it"meh" means not so great? I did do a bit of last years trip on these, I think featureless and deserted best describes. I kept ending up back on the M74 by mistake! Any experiences of getting around or through Manchester? That's the bit that really held me up last year .

http://i.imgur.com/vKlUax3.jpgHi all,next month I'm going on a trip to the Scottish highlands. I'm travelling from Coventry to Glasgow initially and to make things more interesting I'm leaving the gsxr in the garage and taking my ER5. I want to avoid all motorways and take things at a relaxed pace . I'm thinking Buxton,Glossop,Kendal Gretna Glasgow via the A6 , B7076 and B7078 . Does anyone have experience of this route? Or can anyone suggest some better alternatives? I think my main concern is getting through or around Greater Manchester with the least hassle.

Use the centre stand but put a plank under it to raise the bike a little bit. Get someone to push the back end down then shove something under the frame or exhaust pipes such as a breeze block with something soft on top like some magazines or old books. My personal choice is a Jamie Oliver cook book I got as a Christmas present. I don't need anyone to tell me how to burn things and then drown everything in olive oil and I prefer to eat off a plate not a plank of wood.

When I worked at M&P in Coventry a colleague used to ride to work on one of these but only on Sunday when the roads were quieter. Yours looks to be quite a good quality one compared to the awful tat we used to sell. Main fault is always the pull starter. Good luck with it.

Definitely check tyre pressures especially the front.

Leaking exhaust gasket?

Get a new one

Errr..what he said .

So it is! In which case I think you can get the steering lock off by removing the bottom yoke to reveal two countersunk screws . Err... it's a Yamaha isn't it ?

A bent lever wouldn't affect you getting neutral but sometimes it just takes a bit of practice.

Or £9.99 if you're not too bothered about quality. I've built loads of CGs and I don't remember using any special tools. One thing though,don't forget to clean out the adjacent centrifugal oil filter while your in there.

I would strip it out and replace the clutch plates, not difficult and if you lean the bike right over you don't even have to drain the oil . Found these on eBay, probably shite for that money though.http://i.imgur.com/NmUHaZ0.png

So what bike is it,Aprilia or Yamaha?

If you can get the seat lock off the bike without damaging the mechanism you could try taking it to a locksmith. If they could make a key then there is a reasonable chance it would fit the petrol filler cap . You might also be able to remove the steering lock if you remove the forks and top yolk . By the way is this bike an Aprilia or a Yamaha RS 125 ?

So how are you going to start the bike? The ignition key should open both these other locks.

Thanks again to all who responded. Its all working fine now. The only thing I did different was to put a bit of brake fluid on the pistons although I did use plenty during the assembly. Seems to be gripping and releasing as it should so I'm just going to have to keep an eye on things for a while. I seldom use the back brake anyway, not good I know but a hard habit to brake. ( sorry )

Not a floating caliper . I've been looking at what is happening with the caliper off the disk and using an old pad of similar thickness in place of the disk. It all seems to be working perfectly I.e gripping and releasing BUT eventually after about 10 or 12 pumps of the lever it gets tighter and tighter until caliper is gripping the pad. Opening the bleed nipple doesn't make it release but if I work it from side to side it comes out. Using a big screwdriver I can easily push the pistons back in ready to repeat the same bloody process all over again.

Here we go again. I've just fitted new seals and bled the system and I've got the same problem . The wheel gets so hard to turn with the brake not applied that I can hardly move it. Its almost as it the master cylinder is acting like a one way valve so the more times I apply the brake, the stiffer the wheel gets.I've stripped-down, cleaned and inspected everything and I'm stumped! When I was pushing the pistons in to get the pads onto the disk without the line connected I could actually see them springing back so it definitely isn't stiff pistons. Help!

I'm well aware that its a different arrangement, I was just speculating that the bolt might be in backwards causing the retaining nut to stick out. The photo was merely to illustrate a point.

Thanks, digital cameras are very kind to bikes!

Have you had the side stand off? Usually the nut is on the inside and the bolt,which often has a thin flat head,is on the outside. Have a look and see if simply taking it off and putting it back the other way will clear the gear lever. I'll post a pic of one of my bikes to show what I mean. Having said, now that you mention dropping the bike on that side, its probably just a bit bent.I would straighten it in a vice off the bike incase you damage the clamp that holds it on to the shaft .here's the pic,see what I mean about a flat bolt head?http://i.imgur.com/2L8U5lf.jpg

Definitely need to see a picture of this. It can't have just happened so as other members have said either the lever is bent or the bolt isn't where it should be. Surely its not too difficult to work out what's happened.