fastbob

Why have you bought a whole caliper when all you needed was a piston or more likely just an insert that probably doesn't do much anyway ? By the way I've got a 25 year old GSXR that's still on the original rear pads, I should probably use the rear brake a bit more.

I agree

Yep, that's the trouble with changing bulbs . The filament position has to be compatible with the curvature of the reflector. I tried it once and illuminated the whole countryside but created a black hole immediately in front of the bike.

Definitely consider that one , good scenery and interesting roads are why I've decided to do this on my slow bike this year.You mean the Erskine bridge I presume.

Sounds perfect.

Thanks Baloo, I appreciate the comments re Gretna to Moffat. I've done this journey using the M74 many times mostly on 1100cc bikes. What I should have mentioned is that this time I'm going to to be on a clapped out ER5 just for the hell of it so 60 mph might be more of an achievement than a restriction! I'm beginning to think that I might be overthinking this . Back in my younger days I just used to head north without a care and I still got to the Highlands eventually.http://i.imgur.com/zoi8eM3.png

That's an interesting one , I'll keep that as a plan B. I'm looking forward to the b7076 - b7078 section . I did a bit of it last year and it's like having your own private road with the M74 just through the fence. You can still access all the M74 services but from the back.

I'm all set for my holiday in Scotland. My plan is to ride from Coventry to Fort William and beyond without using any motorways at all . I've got it fairly well sussed and I've been to Scotland many times before . Anyone got any ideas or suggestions especially the Ashbourne to Kendal stage ? I've nothing against Manchester but its very much in the way.

Fair comment,in fact it is by no means a certainty that all of the oil has gone missing. There might be enough in the sump to keep things going. If the bike is CG125 based it will be push rod operated and less prone to top end damage caused by oil starvation. Probably the best idea is trailer it to a reputable mechanic and let them check it out.PS I've just had a look and it is an OHC engine so not so good because they depend on oil getting to the top end.

Put the acid in, let it stand a while, start the bike ( bump start if necessary) go for a good ride and it should be fine. Works for me , my last Yuasa lasted seven years . I know some might disagree but there you go.

Not at all offended my man! It's just confusing as usually a bike would start even with little to no oil in, no? I don't think it's seized as the wheels didn't lock up and as stated, still turns over and starts on a bump. Well yes but why would you even think of starting an engine if you know there's no oil in it? That is why a retreating army destroys its vehicles by removing the sump plug and leaving them running.

Please don't be offended but you have stated what's wrong. There's no oil in it! Oil is not an optional extra , its the life blood of the engine. Without it moving parts wear out rapidly and become inefficient thus explaining the dramatic reduction in performance. Fill it up immediately and hope that lasting damage has not been done.

I concur,pistons are cup shaped with the bottom of the cup innermost. You have only damaged some kind of insert. If you had holed a piston you would have no brakes at all.

Why do you need to film bad driving? Its not very interesting.

Was there any reported UFO activity in the area at the time ?

Why not start it up , get up to running temperature then spray water all over it with a hosepipe to simulate heavy rain . Might help to pinpoint what's happening. I've got an ER5 which has the same engine and having read the whole post again I have to say I'm completely baffled. Its the fact that performance doesn't change that makes no sense at all. Water just doesn't cause a bike to make more noise. It's not because you unconsciously start riding differently when it rains is it ? I do alter my style of riding and if its wet and cold I have to lift my visor to stop steaming up . Visor up , more sound in my helmet and running slower thus decreasing wind noise could give the impression that the bike sounds different. The mind plays tricks.

Count the links

Yep caustic soda BUT be careful with that stuff. I tried it once and it all shot out under pressure.Can cause burns that don't heal.

There aren't bright flashes in the sky immediately before the rumbley noise occurs are there?

This bloke didn't have a problem!http://i.imgur.com/oyuIhgX.png

Beat me to it!http://i.imgur.com/DU9iuAB.png

According to the Haynes manual you can make the tool from a piece of pipe and an angle grinder. I recall using a chisel punch and a hammer now you mention it.

Float sticking or dirt particles stopping the float valve needle from seating. Unfortunately you do not have a vacuum operated fuel tap so why not put a sticker on the tank that reads TURN FUEL OFF!

Try Allens Performance . They may require the part number so get a good magnifying glass.

Definitely agree,but I've always regarded the expansion tank as exactly that,i.e somewhere for surplus fluid to go if the rad boils . That said , they do have a minimum level so they can be a reservoir as well. Trouble with some bikes is that the tank is often so far away from the radiator and connected by such a thin pipe that they may be an unreliable way of maintaining the coolant level. So checking the level in the radiator as well was a smart move.