fastbob

Please not again. There are so many previous threads on this subject with so many excellent in depth responses . Surely everyone with an opinion for or against must have expressed it at least once by now. Just saying.

You got gyroscopes ? Where's the side stand especially pic two ?

Here you gohttp://i.imgur.com/IrMFAMv.jpg

I chanced upon these LED taillights and flush indicators today in the caravan section of a camping shop . The distributor is Johnnie Longdon ltd . I think they would look good on all kinds of customs or specials plus at £9.99 a go thay are probably a bit cheaper than motorcycle specific ones ... Sorry, I tried to post a second pic and it all went tits up so no pics at all.

It an interesting point. Just to be clear , the requirement to tighten was for the oil cooled L model GSXR 1100 and not as I mistakenly assumed, the water cooled WP model. So am I to right to be thinking that this need to regularly re tighten head bolts is,as most of you suggest , practically unheard of?

Does it provide the sequence in which to re-torque them back up? If not you could easily do more harm than good. Oh yes,it's in the picture I posted here. Diagonally,working from the centre.

Thanks for all the replies. Let me put the question in another way . Purely out of interest,who would actually do this if their manual DID state that it was required ?

That was my first thought but no, it means both . It's in the periodic maintenance chart as well. Anyway it's no longer an issue, see other replies. Thanks.

You're absolutely right! I wrongly assumed that it would be the same . I did have the L model years ago and I never tightened the bolts on that either and that was still going strong at 100000 miles.I still refer to this old manual for general info on torque settings etc because I cant seem to get a 93 WP manual. Thanks for that!

Well I hadn't heard of it either,as I say I kind of stumbled upon it the other day.http://i.imgur.com/adl7uIO.jpg

Browsing through the routine maintenance section of my GSXR 1100 workshop manual the other day I came upon the part about re tightening the cylinder head bolts. Apparently I should have been slackening them off and re tightening them every 4000 miles for the life of the bike. Not a straightforward task by any means. Tank off,plastics off,thermostat,plugs,and finally rocker cover off before you can even see the bolts. So my question is who actually does this ? I confess I have only done it once in 40000 miles so that's nine times too few! The bike runs fine and there are no oil leaks or any water in the oil . All opinions awaited with interest.

Don't set your wheel on fire! I just meant warm it up by leaning it on the radiator or leaving it in the sun. I thought you were trying to install a new bearing not get one out. Putting the new bearing in the freezer is to shrink it by a miniscule amount . It's the opposite of how metal tyres are put onto the wheels of old railway locomotives.

That part shown in your photo is a filter, if it had black bits in it, then its doing its job of keeping dirt out. Down side is it could now be blocked and preventing fuel getting tothe carb. Also means you have dirt in the fuel. Have a look in the tank to see if the fuel looks dirty. Take the filter off and reverse flush it by connecting it the opposite way round to the fuel pipe with other end (carb end) inot a clean glass jar. Look to see if any dirt comes out and the fuel flows freely, If you get lots of dirt and/or the fuel does not come out freely, then replace the filter. . My thoughts exactly , this fuel filter could very well be blocked or perhaps partially blocked. In fact , why have you got an aftermarket fuel filter at all? Most bikes I've owned have had filters built into the tank. If you feel the need for a fuel filter get a clear plastic one so you can see what's going on. Hope this helps,good luck.

Warm up the wheel and put the bearing in the freezer.

Not complex but messy and hazardous. The best value brake cleaner can be found at Toolstation as well as gloves and face masks. They do a pack of Scotchpads as well that are really good for a job like this.

In the second set of pictures you have even more slack than in the first so the clutch is going to drag even more. You don't want any slack at all because because taking up the slack is just a waste of lever movement. What you want is a kind of neutral state where cable is neither slack nor tight. If none of this works I would start over again and re fit the clutch making sure that every friction and steel plate is in the correct order and all other parts are correctly installed.A new cable definitely seems like a good idea if it's frayed it's going to snap soon anyway. Keep at it.

Here you gohttp://i.imgur.com/9jPZNnZ.png

Flushed with success at fixing the brakes on the GSXR yesterday I thought I'd have a go at the ER5. Same again,crap under the dust seals but main seals were OK. And what make is the caliper ? TOKICO !!

A few tips I'd like to pass on. "crack" all the bolts while the calipers are still on the bike,pump the pistons out by removing the pads while still on the bike as the disk will stop them coming right out. If the pistons still need pulling use a piece of rubber inner tube to grip them with pliers avoiding damage.( assuming you have split the calipers) Lastly I refilled the system very quickly with nothing but a metre of pvc tube. Just attach to each bleed nipple ,open and suck while continually topping up the reservoir. Best of luck.

Just been for a ride, wow ! I've got brakes .

Yeah but I bet there's still a load of crap behind your seals . I was very surprised at the amount I discovered. Luckily it was only behind the dust seals . Just lubing the pistons treats the symptoms not the cause.

Back in the good old days we just stuffed some bog paper under the dust covers !

Thanks again for your contributions , just done a full caliper strip and rebuild. Removed a lot of mineralization from behind the outer dust seals but I was pleased to find that there was nothing lurking behind the main seals. Reassembled,filled and bled the system and lever movement is right back where it should be. Result! Just hope it lasts. I'll see how it goes but I'm definitely going to upgrade to Nissins when time and budget permits. Thanks.

You're going to have to provide way more information than that to have any chance of someone even taking a guess at what's wrong with your bike.Have you read the troubleshooting section of the owners manual?

Seal Mate? Tell me more please.