Bianco2564

Moving on with the next project now the RGV is back together. Few years ago bought a GT380 engine in bits as a spare for my bike so plan to dry build it to see what’s there. Ive got all the major parts, it will be the small widgets I’m missing. First job on the crankcases is to strip off some gold paint on the upper case.

They OEM panels are not in great shape unfortunately, I do watch eBay hoping the same design will come up but they were only in use for one year so chances are slim.

Thanks, the blue and white is my favourite colours although I prefer the previous year M version styling, also on the GSXR750 M that I once owned. The bodywork on my bike is a Chinese copy, I have OEM parts in the loft.

Finished off the RGV, well almost. The rear brake light isnt working properly so need to investigate the switch.

Set up the RGV power valves ,checked carb and oil pump settings and got it fired up. Rode it down the drive, first time it’s moved under power for a year or so. Once I was happy it was ok, I took the Lh engine cover off for a repaint.

Stripped and repainted the RGV exhausts. I found one of them was totally corroded through, unfortunately this was after an hour or so wire brushing the rest of it before I spotted it. Fortunately I have a spare set of pipes in picked up at Newark some years ago, £10 well spent.

Stripped and repainted the rear subframe on the RGV. Fitted it back to the frame and started reattaching everything; oil tank, coolant reservoir,cdi box, battery box, loom.

Just looked at my Exup that I owned before my R1. Sold it in 2016 to a guy who worked at a college and they were going to use it as a project in a motorcycle mechanics course. Sold it with 73k miles on it, it was MOT’d last year with 48k kms?

Thank you guys

Last weekend hauled the RGV out into the sunshine, reconnected the power valves, removed the rear subframe for paint and cleaned up the main loom. Today I fitted a new battery to the R1 and tried to start it up. It was always a bit reluctant to start after being laid up, not run it for probably 6 mths. Spun over ok and made an occasional cough but it wasnt having any of it. It smelt a bit flooded so took the tank, air box and plugs out. Dried the plugs out and tried again, nope nothing. Tried for a spark with a plug resting on the frame, nothing which was odd as it ran ok the last time. Unplugged and reconnected the cdi unit, checked the main fuses, both still ok but one felt quite loose it it’s holder. Gave the terminals a little squeeze and put it back in. Tried for spark again and it was all good. Tried again and it fired up straight away and sounded really sweet. I did spot a pool of coolant on top of the head where a pipe connects, suspect it’s probably an o ring, a bit more investigation required. Sadly it’s unlikely I’ll be riding either this year, I suffered a mild stroke in November and currently not able to drive/ride

Thank you all 61 today, where did that go?

Hello and welcome. An engine will need a few things to run; fuel, ignition, compression and air flow. Try resting the spark plug on the side of the head and crank the engine, should get a healthy blue spark. While spark plug is out, do a compression test. Don’t know what it should be specifically but 150 psi is a good benchmark.It does sound like it has compression TBH,an engine without any compression just whirrs over. Is the spark plug wet when you take it out? Is it EFI ? Take the air filter out, try spraying a bit of easy start or the like into the throttle body and see if there’s any life when you crank it. If it does run momentarily, would point to an injection fault. If carb, try the same. Has it ever ran or you got it as a non runner?

After searching google, others are saying about a throttle reset on your model and other KTMs With engine off and ignition on, open the throttle fully and close it slowly then switch ignition off. Others suggest start up and allow to idle for 15mins, don’t rev it up, switch off at kill switch then turn off key. Ive no experience with them but these procedures do make some sense. Have you spoken to a dealer, must still be under warranty?

Is it a petrol car or diesel? If it has the Prince petrol engine, they are renowned for timing chains & oil consumption problems. Both fixable but at what cost? If you can do it yourself on the cheap, it may be worth doing. Id do a bit of research on potential pitfalls before you get into it. If the N47 diesel, they too have timing chain problems, it’s an engine out to fix this as the chain is on the flywheel end of the engine. Ive a Mini one diesel, bought as a cheap winter car while the M3 is off the road ,Mini is great fun to drive and can see why you are reluctant to part with yours.

And yet you can carry a loaded weapon or own an assault rifle without a permit.

The shape of it looks like a two stroke expansion chamber, tapering to a small silencer?

Car dealer told me if condition is comparable, take the low mileage over newer reg.

I like your scales of annoyance. I've added a couple more. 5; Fuming, want to tear them a new one 4; Completely ticked off 3; Irked 2; Miffed 1; Chill, let it go

Reading some MSDS on de icer, they seem to be made of isopropyl alcohol, ethanol ,methanol and other chemicals in smaller qtys. This is similar to screen wash which is more diluted. IMHO, if your screen rubbers and wipers were exposed to it every day for prolonged periods, they would deteriorate , however when clearing your screen most of it will fall off or evaporate without harm. Im more concerned about the damage caused by the rock salt that your car gets covered in when driving this time of year. This is around 94% sodium chloride and will definitely eat away at your car.

Bolted this rats nest of parts back on the RGV. Throttle cable junction box, power valve servo and cables, thermostat housing and hoses, all squeezes in there somewhere. Junction box has 5 cables going to it, 1 from twistgrip, 2 carbs, 1 oil pump & 1 servo. The servo cable is designed to hold open the oil pump in the event of closing the throttle from high speed and load ,to prevent seizure.

Definitely a two stroke. RG500 RD500 H2 750 Can I have all three?

As a side note, my R1 needed a new throttle cable, genuine was around £50. Bought a pattern part for a fraction of the price but it was utter garbage. It didn’t fit very well, when I opened the throttle if felt horrible and didn’t snap shut. Chucked it the bin and stumped up the 50 for OEM. Buy cheap, buy twice.

If the rad is as blown up as the photo would suggest and it wasn’t like that before the coolant change, my guess would be it had an airlock, the engine overheated , over pressured and popped the rad. The rad cap should have relieved any excess pressure so I’m sceptical on my own theory.

Is the rad actually as distorted as it looks in the photo?

Reassembled the RGV clocks and refitted back on the bike.