Bianco2564

Just thinking about how the valve works, not familiar with them. Is the electrical connection a priming function, turn ignition on or crank it and 12v is sent to the valve to flow fuel? Once the engine starts, the intake vacuum takes over? Can you bypass the valve and just connect the carb straight to a fuel supply and check the engine runs.? Check what the 12v supply does when you switch the ignition on. Check that the valves earth is good.

A guy I used to work with had an extension built, he set up an account with the building suppliers so the builder just went and collected goods from the depot. Each month my friend would see an invoice from the supplier and check what had been bought then added more funds as required. Your man sounds well dodgy, best avoided.

Maybe it's a way of naming the different coins, like Americans call theirs dimes and quarters? A 50p will be known as a Salmon which is equivalent to two puffins and a capercallie. Seems like a massive waste of time considering all the cashless payment options.

Reading the T&Cs does sound like they managed the situation in their favour by sending some out onto the circuit, just to avoid calling it a total washout. With all the rain radar technology, I'm sure they could have predicted the outcome, but that would be bad financially for them. I think you've just got to take it on the chin and be grateful you are not hurt or looking at a smashed up bike. I used to go to Santa pod with my car on RWYB days, never guaranteed what was going to happen on the day with the weather, crashes, oil on the track etc. Might get 10 runs in, might only be 4. Or none.

The vacuum at idle should be much higher than that, as the dial indicates a min of 18 inches. Assume it was at idle, not a higher engine speed? I'd be looking for an inlet leak. On the 3rd pic, that looks like a cracked inlet manifold stub. On my gt380, the inlet rubbers weren't perished but had gone rock hard and not clamping up properly. Check for other perished hoses around the carbs. That perished cap on the airbox drain won't make any real difference. You are looking for something between the carb and inlet valve. A carb heat riser, various methods used to prevent the carb from icing over or fuel dropping out of the air and pooling in the manifold. Can be something passive as on a MINI A series engine where the inlet and exhaust casting are one piece , to flappy valves on the exhaust which direct exh gas onto the bottom of the inlet manifold. As it warms up, the valve diverts the gas straight down the exhaust. IIRC, some Kawasakis in the 90s had carb icing problems and they had to retro fit some pipework into the cooling system?

Just replaced the caliper seals on the Kawasaki, instructions say you can use brake fluid or rubber grease, they do supply a small sachet of grease aswell. Maybe the consensus in manuals is its safer to say use brake fluid as you can't really get it wrong if you put too much on the seals.

Check you haven't got a big voltage drop (12v side) at the coil when you first crank it, it takes a lot of effort to get a big single turning. Or a weak coil .On my ancient Honda 125, that became difficult to start, I replaced the coil and it transformed it.

Its happening in the Banbury area too. On my commute along the A361, one village called Wardington has recently changed to 20mph. https://www.oxfordmail.co.uk/news/23706759.oxfordshire-seven-20mph-schemes-approved/

I doubt you could get it road legal , Euro 5 and all that. If you could, its unrestricted at around 33hp, if you are on L plates you can't legally ride it anyway. Insurance would most likely be a problem. Like your ambition though, I love two stroke bikes aswell.

I'd guess at a Rudge. Forks look the same, exhaust dropping down into the silencer, shape of the tank, shape of the RH engine case https://www.spicersauctioneers.com/catalogue/lot/58ec1e413604cec54dd1a7d6c1f7cfce/2a6fa85538c56e3991b429b74f737ad8/classic-and-vintage-cars-motorcycles-and-automobilia-lot-662/

MOT'd the Kawasaki yesterday, new caliper seals on the front and a new disc on the rear. There was a fair amount of corrosion under the disc which took a bit of scraping and cleaning up.

Took the Kwak for MOT on Friday, got an advisory for a sticky front brake and a fail on the rear brake fluctuating. Rear brake was a bit of a surprise as I can't feel anything thru the pedal. Anyway ordered a new disc and front seal kit. Stripped the caliper this afternoon, found a load of corrosion behind the dust seals which was probably the cause , cleaned everything up and the pistons just glide back in. Hopefully the disc will get here in a day or two ready for the retest on Friday.

My 2003, 340hp M3 is ULEZ compliant, luckily I have no need to go to the place.

Hello and welcome. According to Honda UK, only models after 1993 can run on e10 regular unleaded, so yours should run using e5 super unleaded.

Bought a std exhaust for the R1, want to get it back to original as far as possible. Just indicators, rear mudguard and screen to go. Fired it up for the first time since April, naturally much quieter but sounded good.

Dog owners who talk to non dog owners persistently about their dog. Dog owners who do nothing about it barking its stupid head off all the time. People who drop litter and flytippers. E-scooters. People who eat fish in the works canteen. Drones that buzz over my house.

Hello and welcome. From what I can see,its under the LH engine cover behind the flywheel/magneto. Should be a couple of windows in the flywheel you look through to access the points. Probably need a puller to get the flywheel off, the cam to open the points is usually on the flywheel if its similar to other types.

Did the weekly checks on the Kawasaki with help of the eldest grandson, he can remember to look at the brake fluid, oil level, tyres and lights. He was dead chuffed we found the tail light was blown and had to replace the bulb.

Filled the Kwak back up tonight, was it more economical? I'd say yes, when using e10, the low fuel would routinely light up on the return journey home on day 4 and tonight it didn't, got all the way back to Rugby Sainsburys, 229 miles in total. Crunched the numbers and it had returned just under 86mpg ,around 2mpg improvement on the last run. Was it worth paying 7p a litre more for? Cost me 50p more to do the same journey, so no. Did it run any better? Nope, no discernible difference.

I've just made the switch to GEMS from the AA. Far more comprehensive cover for half the price.

Well my plan of arriving a bit later didn't work, had to park in the bottom end of the town again, at least it was in the shade. Met @Ian Frog

I only use the Kwak for work, its exactly the same route and miles covered every 4 days so should be a reasonably fair test. Can't complain at all on its economy, costs me around £18-19 per week to get to work, 229 miles for 4 days and only one fuel stop.

Yes the ride in is at 10. Last year I got there early and was one of the last to leave, had to park the 380 right on the outskirts of town. Aiming to get there for about 9.30.

Decided to give super unleaded a go in the Ninja, just to see if the negative hype about e10 giving worse mpg is true. The Kwak is averaging low 80s mpg regularly, fill up tonight was just under 84mpg.

By all accounts, this place is good. https://bornandbreadbakery.co.uk/ Or there is always Greggs!