Bianco2564

Don't know about this carb specifically but my thoughts. If it has a very fine taper as Gsx boy says its the mixture screw basically adjusts the fuel/air mix at idle.Above idle then the pilot, main jet and needle position all play their own part in controlling the fuel. Plenty of charts online showing who does what. As to what yours should be will need you to find a manual. If you can't I'd set the mixture screw about 1.25 turns out from fully home and the circlip on the needle (assuming it has one on a basic carb like this ) towards the bottom, i.e. the needle is lifted out the jet.Better to err on the rich side on a 2 stroke. If its a throttle stop screw its probably got a rounded end which pushes on a angled face on the throttle piston, screw it in raises the idle. Other things to check if its running bad; Air filter clean Intake rubbers or seals Crank seals as suggested Air leaks on crankcase Piston,ring and bore condition Exhaust not blocked Ignition condition,spark plug and timing Fresh fuel If pre mix make sure the ratio is correct, too much oil and it will struggle to ignite. 2 strokes can be fussy about air leaks on the intake, either run bad or seize up if too lean

There are dozens of rear hubs with arms on fleabay starting from a fiver. Front caliper looks a bit rarer, can you fit a new piston and seal kit?

Cmsnl have a good website for finding part nos. Don't know if this is the right year for your bike? https://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-er500a4-er5-2000-europe-uk-fr-fg-is-nr-sp_model12227/partslist/F2260.html

I live in a very small town in a very remote area.....there is no local bus service, nearest railway station 100kms, and nearest city 160kms. No English spoken whatsoever. Sounds like Norfolk

My Silverwing is 03 and on 57000 miles. Looks a bit scruffy but that's only cosmetic, underneath its solid.

That might confuse anyone on your right hand side following you around the roundabout.

I'll stick with my V-twin for now, not quite ready for the whole HD scene yet. I've only done a pitiful 177miles on it this year. My fave of aĺl my bikes to admire in the garage.

Sorned the RGV. No more riding that until March

That's nothing. you should see mine after a week of commuting between Kettering and Narborough on mostly rural stuff. I ended up buying a worx hydroshot battery powered pressure washer. does the job in less than half the time it took by hand Pics or it didn't happen

The reason I don't use any of my good bikes during the winter : And that's using a mix of A & B roads between Rugby and Banbury.

Found this blog explaining about the roller weights. https://www.pedparts.co.uk/blog/moped-tuning--rollers If your ped pulls (I use that word loosely) to max rpm already then unless the new exhaust allows the engine to rev higher then the top speed will remain the same as its governed by the max engine rpm and gearing, in your case the diameter of the pulleys. Changing to lighter rollers will just let the engine spin up quicker so as you accelerate the revs/power will be higher and it will feel faster. Downside is you will be revving the nuts out of it all the time;noise,fuel consumption and engine life will all suffer. I appreciate at your age none of the downsides matter, so fill your boots I have considered changing the rollers on my Silverwing but its got enough oomph at low revs anyway and good fuel economy is more important to me.

This weekend 20% off all parts, clothing and accessories. I got £150 off my RGV crank 2 years ago. https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/pages/news/news-and-events/black-friday-is-back-at-robinsons-foundry.htm

Checked the antifreeze on the scooter.

I've run normal 95 supermarket and branded fuel in my carbed R1 for 3 years and 10000 miles without a problem. What's your concern?

Says the weirdo who traps his todger in his zip and first thought is to take a photo of it and post online

Suzuki GT250 1975

Didn't know that was the case.Lucky lot. I was 17 in early 1981 and had 6 months of a GT250 on L plates before passing the ludicrously easy driving test.

You sure he was riding the TZR legally? 250cc learner laws changed in 1983 and the TZR reverse cyl didn't come out until 1989. My first road bike was a 1975 Honda SS50.

Macau.

Looks like a Jeremy Beadle YBF set up for the 250 quid.

Finally got around to finishing the Honda wheel, only took 4 months Truing up wasn't too difficult just time consuming. The rims were only cheap ones off ebay and the join where its welded together isn't perfect and impossible to make the run out right but this doesn't seem to transfer into the tyre. And yes I know the front brakes not connected, I'm buying new tyres for it before its back on the road and I've yet to grind off the protruding spokes beneath the rim tape. Just the rear wheel to do next, hopefully not taking 4 months.

Riden into work 3 days this week, around 170 miles in total,bought a set of heated grips to make it slightly more tolerable.

My R1. 1000cc;150hp;45mpg average,50 mpg if ridden steady.170mph if you want. My scooter. 600cc;50hp;50mpg average;55 mpg riden steady;112mph if you're brave. Take your pick.

My RGV doesn't have a cooling fan and several times when I've been stuck in traffic the temp just keeps on climbing to the point I've had to switch it off. Which in itself is counterproductive as heatsink can occur as there is no water flow. As you say the best thing is to keep the bike moving but if you are stuck in traffic what do you do? It is one mod I've considered doing to the RGV is adding a fan so I don't end up with an expensive rebuild. To the original question, my R1 runs about 70 deg at normal speed and the fan comes on about 100, so your YZF sounds normal to me.As someone has asked ,why do you want this?

I paid £400 for mine in 96. Probably worth £4k now Used the scooter all week so far, through frost and fog.