Bianco2564

Another ebay tale. Saw an Android head unit for my new car, DVD,sat nav etc on a buy it now for £169.99 or best offer. So stuck a testing offer of £150 which was automatically rejected,so increased this to £160. Seller came back with a counter offer of £169.90 a whole 9p off the original price. WTF is it worth even offering that option Bought it anyway.

Sold the car last night to someone off gumtree, paid cash and away it went.Must have been the shortest road test ever, he dipped the oil, fired it up and asked for a test drive.Turned right out our drive,100 metres up the road around a small green,back to the house and deal was done I did sell it for £600 in the end but out of principle wouldn't deal with the ebay joker.

Lol, Yes held the shoes to ransom until the hub was clean. He seemed most interested in my magnetic bolt tray where I put the spoke nuts, he kept sticking it to various things in the garden and garage.

After what seems ages, I managed to start work on 're building the front wheel. No1 grandson and me took the wheel apart and wire brushed and polished up the hub. Good experience for him, learning the skills and names of all the parts of the wheel and tools used.

Did the same on the Honda clutch cover. The gasket was only available in a set which I didn't need or want to buy,couple of quid for two sheets of paper and an hour had it sorted. No leaks either.

Not a bike story but I'm sure it must happen much the same. Stuck my Peugeot 206 gti 180 on the bay last weekend, buy it now for £995 and on auction with a reserve of £750 which is a fair price I reckon. Lot of interest during the week and bid up to £620 with a few hours to go. Listing ended at £680 but I was ok with letting it go for that so contacted the highest bidder with a 2nd chance offer at £680. Joker contacts me back,I'll give you £600 for it. How does FO sound, you were prepared you give me 680 last night

Someone died, someone is culpable. The guy who died must take most of the blame and paid the ultimate price. The train company also share the blame for underestimating the risk and likelihood of someone sticking their head out the window. More stickers wouldn't make a blind bit of difference, if someone is inclined to hang out the window they will. Take a look at the HSE reports on legal actions taken against company's after injuries or deaths in the workplace .It's an eye opener into the stupidity and carelessness of both employee and employer.

Hi. I have a Suzuki RGV250 which looks like it has a similar mechanism when I looked at a TS50 on cmsnl. https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/suzuki-ts50xk-1994-r-e01-e02-e16-e17-e18-e22-e25-kick-starter_bigsue0010fig12_631b.gif These are a few pics from my workshop manual which may help. I know I have struggled to put the RGV kickstart back together so don't worry if you can't get it right first time,there is a knack. It's a bit hard to describe so take a look at these images and try to replicate it. Once you have it all in place ,you should be able to turn the kickstart,the gear will wind inwards on the helix of the shaft and engage with another gear to turn the engine over.You should be able to do this with the side cover off and see it workingThis should also tension the main spring causing the k/s to return. The 2nd part of your question,you mean you try to bump start it and the engine doesn't turn? If so sounds like the clutch is slipping badly,engine seized or something is missing from the drive?

After a couple of weeks trial between here and Banbury my opinion is still the same. Nodded at a HD rider the other day and he just stared at me Same with adventure bike riders, they just tend to look past me And a pat on the back to sportsbike and middleweights, most likely to acknowledge me on the scoot.

We collected some coins to commemorate flight & space travel, you would press it into a cardboard display holder. Still got it somewhere in the loft. This would have been early 70s iirc. B4056AA7-67D0-4611-ADF8-9435203200EF.jpeg44E8E7AB-7894-4CD9-ADCA-3D2EAAFDBBFC.jpeg I know it’s sad. That's it

We collected some coins to commemorate flight & space travel, you would press it into a cardboard display holder. Still got it somewhere in the loft. This would have been early 70s iirc.

Welcome. You may have looked at these already but this is what I'd check; Compression test Valve clearances Spark plugs Coils,leads and plug caps Injectors flowing correctly, various companies offer a cleaning service Fuel pressure ok.pump, filter ,pressure relief valve Any vac hoses perished Inlet manifold rubbers perished. Air filter Coolant temp sensor Air temp sensor if it has one fitted Crank or cam sensor Blocked breathers Battery voltage,charging ok Bad earths Corroded wiring CDI unit Have you tried any vac gauges on it, try to narrow it down to one cylinder? Does it run rough only when riding it or can you replicate it by just revving it up? Does it smell or sound as if its running rich or lean? Any black smoke from exhausts? I too have a Suzuki v-twin, slightly smaller in the shape of an RGV250

Have you done any more with the RGV?

Perhaps OP wasn't prepared for a drag race and was not in the best gear or at full throttle for the overtake?

Not quite as dramatic as your experience here's what happened to me tonight; Following 3 cars with a small van at the head of the queue who was ambling along about 40-45 mph in a 50mph limit. Round a bend leading onto a short straight uphill,no junctions just fields either side,plenty of space to overtake at least 2 of them. Nothing coming, mirror check, drop the R1 a gear and start to accelerate to see a load of brake lights,the van had decided to pull into a gateway. Quickly scrubbed the speed off the Yam with its excellent blue spot brakes and rode on. Just shows to expect the unexpected.

As others have said, most likely a blocked jet in the carb. Take the carb off, remove the float bowl and clean out. Sonic cleaner would be best if you can access one. Remove the pilot & main jets,remove the float needle valve and inspect for wear. If you cant get a sonic cleaner, an airline to blow through the passages in the carb, reverse direction to flow so you dont blow any crap deeper into the carb. I have an old Honda 125cc twin with single carb, very simple,nothing much to go wrong.

There is a smart section on the M1 between J16 Daventry and J19 M6 /A14, I have travelled along it many times. I also initially thought they were a ridiculous idea and was reluctant to use lane1. However the more I used it became less concerned and regularly drove along L1. If there were any incidents the appropriate lanes were closed well in advance. I guess they think vehicles are more reliable than 60 years ago and the risk is lower. We think nothing at driving along a dual carriageway, same 70mph speed limit and no hard shoulder.

I find that most adventure bike and HD riders are the most likely not to nod /wave or whatever and even less so if I'm on the scooter but not entirely unexpected TBH. Sportsbike riders appear to be most likely to nod irrespective of what I'm riding.

I've got an 01 5jj, it will pull from 3000rpm in any gear. Riding around at 50-70 mph I just leave it in 6th most of the time.Even for normal overtaking you can just roll the throttle on and pass by comfortably. Mid 40s mpg when ridden normally, 150 miles to a tank. Comfort is ok for a tankful, but gets to my wrists on 200 mile plus rides. Reliability has been good so far, owned it 3 years and put around 9k miles on it, now at 38k in total. It can get a bit lively under acceleration, front can lift with ease and had the steering shaking at 90mph over bumpy roads. Not ridden an R6 but I don't think you woulld be disappointed in any R1.

Welcome to the forum. Couple of places spring to mind for the crank rebuild. https://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Crank_Shaft_Rebuilding.html http://www.sep-kegworth.co.uk/page1.htm Try Fowlers or Yambits for parts. https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAjwxrzoBRBBEiwAbtX1n1Sl0TIYH44HL6H0RYqvJkNErdrhiXUeb3WwVbjwgfyFxWOGNlqW1BoCi_0QAvD_BwE https://yambits.co.uk/ Genuine or pattern will be down to your budget but yes I'd agree genuine would be best. I rebuilt my RGV engine last year, new genuine crank and pistons don't come cheap.

Just checked in the Suzuki genuine manual and the doesn't mention bolt lengths or style, just torque settings. I had to replace most on mine aswell, luckily I have amassed a collection of fasteners over the year's and had most suitable "in stock". Depends on how original you want to be. I used capscrews on the engine for convenience and a variety of plated hex and cap heads across the rest of the bike.

Yay, another RGV Yes I have a VJ22, owned it for 6 years and much like you bought as a pile of parts. There is a dedicated RGV forum run by a guy called Sean who owns a company called The Tuning Works, he sells almost everything for them. Had my barrels replated by him last year. Got plenty of pics of it in various states of build. Suzuki also have the RGV on the vintage parts scheme. Things to check; Frame not cracked around lower suspension mount. Power valves have a nasty habit of falling into the cylinder and colliding with the piston, make sure you inspect them before you run it and every year or so. 3 piece pv on VJ22 is the worst. If you don't know the history of the engine its advisable to take the barrels off and inspect the nicasil liners,pistons and crank bearings. Only use top quality 2 stroke oil,I use Castrol power from Halfords. Warm it up before riding off

Does it start better if you open the choke at all? Usual suspects;spark plugs,airfilter all ok? Throttle balance Carb inlet rubbers perished/hardened causing weak mixture. Valve clearances closing up when hot causing loss of compression.

Hello and welcome. I don't think anyone on here could answer your question with any certainty. Couple of thoughts; Are they the same bore and stroke? From what I can gather, the RG has power valves, the TS doesnt.If you could mate the two parts, it might be tricky to get running properly, the porting on both will be different and the TS carb would need rejetting. I would think it would be more trouble than its worth. Obvious question,why not just rebuild the TS crank?

Heat and penetrating oil as suggested. Use a hot air gun on a lowish setting or a hairdryer. I don't know the details or design of the caliper but googling would suggest a Brembo with a pin and r clip? Can you get to the back of the pin and drive out with a pin punch? Try tapping it the other way aswell just to loosen it off. Try tapping the grips with a hammer to move it. Just posted this then read you had sorted it