wiffers

Been looking for ages to no avail Asked a mate who's a good sprayer, and he reckons that mates' rates (cash) would be £90 for the whole front of the bike Sweeeeeeeeet That means it will be in better condition than before, get a few decals, and have flawless fairings. If it's that cheap I'll pay a few more pennies and get my wheels done all new and shiney too. Whooop In the mean time I'm looking for a new generator cover as my old one is "patched up" - or will be when the gasket arrives I'll post pics when done

Anyone any reports on aftermarket fairings?

How much cost/time would it be to spray? Bear in mind it's metallic blue I have access to a spray gun (my brother sprayed a mini ages ago), and all preping stuff I've never sprayed anything before Also bear in mind it's only a £1500 bike ... Thx

My biker always had a scratch on the front right fairing where it was dropped (on grass) by previous owner The front fairing has always had a small blemish At the weekend some **** knocked my bike off the stand, and the left fairing now cracked (and glued) Options: 1. get it sprayed properly - but quoted a LOT 2. get it sprayed, repair only, no idea on price 3. Ebay - £300 for after market 4. Use Fribest or someone - £280 5. Source 2nd hand - proving difficult 6. Try and get some touch up paint and repair myself What's best chaps? Thanks

DAS

hate riding in wet

Had fun To answer my own questions: yes it's 10 mins on, 50 mins off ... which isn't ideal. Could really do double that. Seemed well run. Most average people have a 120-140 on the main straight, corners all mainly right hand, seem to be 60-90mph (at a guess). couple of s's which are a bit slower Didn't get my knee down (felt wrong hanging off of seat, so decided to just get cornering speed up firstly), but got much more confident at cornering

I will do, and not taking anything here as gospel ... just interested to know if I'll be cornering/riding at 50 or 150 Really want my knee down too, but it'll be fin regardless. And hopefully wheelie day the week after - whooooooooop whoooop

Hi guys, I'm a track day virgin, and also need a lot more confidence in corners. I know the bike is capable of a lot more than what I can do, it's just growing a pair and doing it. My CBR600 had 9mm chichen strips, but my new ZX-9R is more like 20mm, embarrassing. Anyway, my mate signed up for a track day at Castle Combe, so I thought I'd give it a pop, get used to cornering in a safe environment, knowing how the bike reacts etc, getting confidence up, and hopefully making me a better rider. My goals for the track day are, in this order: 1. Give the bike some beans, and have fun 2. Get some confidence in cornering, and find out how far the bike can actually go down, rather that worrying about gravel/lorries/pot holes/animals 3. Maybe actually get me knee down Now, I've been told for 2. and 3. maybe another track like Brands Hatch would be better, but too late now, I've signed up for this one. I'm sure 1. and 2. will be fine on any track. So my questions: A. What's Castle Combe like for getting knee down? Is it too fast/straight for a newbie to do that (100MPH corners etc), or slow enough for someone like me to have a fair chance? B. With a half decent rider, on a road bike (like mine), what short of speed are the corners/straights? C. Is it true we're in 6 groups, so riding 10 mins per hour only? (doesn't seem much) Thx

Cool - just ordered generic tail tidy, I'll have to give it a shot

that easy? so a day job? Thx mate

Any one know where I can wither get a cheap one, or a guide on how to modify mine? I want to keep the under-seat storage though ... that's the tough bit

Did it the way indicated in last pic. Seems to work a treat MOT Thu

I have access to an arc welder, but the nut will be a bast*rd to get at, and not sure my welding is that good. But superb idea - will have a think Rounding the edge with a hammer also good, but may be difficult as only have a few mm to play with. Another idea I have, it turn a nut in a lathe, and make the hole in plate B slightly bigger, to make something like this: http://www.webbedfeetuk.com/Crap/exhaust2.jpg Where original nut (pink) has been turned down on bottom half. Exhaust flange (blue) has been drilled further. Stud (green) is broken off flush to top of exhaust flange, but uses bottom thread of nut. Engine block on orange. Could try that, put loads of gunk between flange and block, and if it doesn't work try the welding idea. Cos once I try welding idea I can go back to this one as easily. What you think? Thanks for help

Walney. Gonna be a bugger to extract. Only got a bit of thread, rusted in, only 7mm steel in an ally block, very hard to get at (not like it's on my bench), plus it's a 7mm thread - grrrrrrrrr I think making it red hot, mole grips and asbestos fingers will be the best way. And an allen bolt would be fine, IF I can get the old one out. A new bolt is only £3.50, not an issue, it's just getting the old one. Voodoo - nowhere near long enough mate, I'll have around 4mm to play with I should imagine. i.e. the thichness of B

Bike (CBR600F '95) failed MOT on a rusty/blowing downpipe cos it's been stuck in garage Garage said bolts probably rusted,and they wouldn't heat them up to remove. So I soaked in oil/WD40 for a week (on and off and heating it up). And tried. 3 came off easily. 1 had to be heated to 'cherry hot' 3 times, then came off too. One of the middle ones is still intact and will need to be heated (labelled 'OK' but one sheared off labelled 'broken' - I will have a bit of stud sticking out, so will try and heat it and use mole grips to remove. But failing that, it would need to either be drilled (out of an aly head, with fadiator, forks, wheels, faitrings etc in the way), so an absolute fcuker of a job. Anyway, I have some ideas/questions. Firstly, does anyone know if the gaskets seal the pipes to the block flat (along point B), or on the tapered tubes (labelled A). Cos if A, I think that the seal would be tight enough with just 2 out of the 3 possible bolts, as all the plate (B) does is hold A tight to block, not for a seal. So I may be OK with 5 studs. 1. So, do gaskets seal B to block, or go around A? Also, I may try and be clever and make another plate (washer) which goes over the OK central bolt, and tightens over the broken one, pulling it in a bit. If the gaskets seal B to the block, would they be OK with a missing bolt, or with this little bit of force. Obviously I'd gunk the area up. So if gaskets are flat and seal B to the block, will the exhaust tubes hold on missing the central bolts (on one side), or would they blow (even with gunk)? Finally, has anoyone any other tips of getting this working? Or, failing that, know anyone in the Salisbury area who will drill this out? Thanks http://www.webbedfeetuk.com/Crap/exhaust.jpg

Sweet - prices going down, thanks guys

Out of stock ... but price good Thx mate

Cool - thx mate

I have a '95 CBR600F (3) Failed MOT on rusty downpipe Guy in garage saying £250 ish for (aftermarket) parts, and just found this site, so seems right: http://www.speednspares.co.uk/honda-mot ... s-33-c.asp Anyone any idea of anywhere to get cheaper? Hard to fit myself? Thanks

Stays deflated until paramedics arrive They can then inflate to push your helmet off ... rather than having to pull it and risk stretching or twisting your spine ... Clever

http://www.shockdoctor.com/product/ejec ... l-kit.aspx Anyone use one?

So best to use for town riding then ... not motorways or high speed A roads

Usually boxer shorts and T shirt under textiles with vents open. I find kevlar jeans make my legs/groin a LOT cooler I also find putting a skin tight lycra (fighting) top on keeps my top cool

mine is nice it says 'legal for day time use' on it