Bogof

And "yeh, but only Tossers go to work... non - tossers have people working and earning money for them" doesn't really sound like much of a 'little guy' thing to say, does it? Reads more like the unappreciative attitude of the people doing the shitting, to my eyes.

It could equally mean "I'm a tosser cos I work... non-tossers have people working (like me) and earning money for them"

We can hope while they are not paying attention to the road either because they are trying to get a good shot of someone speeding, or feeling high and mighty in his polite jacket that they end up going into the back of someone...

What type of innocent road user are you hoping they go into the back of? A motorist, motorcyclist or pedestrian?

Dislike their choice of jacket if you like, but hoping that they injure others is a step too far.

Noticed this morning my brake light is staying on permanently. After a quick investigation it's the rear brake thats doing it. my dad sprayed some stuff (WD40? didn't see) but still doing it. so i left it disconnected

Can anyone suggest anything to look for? Otherwise i'll just go digging around on saturday with my haynes manual

Brake light switch which is usually connected to the pedal and might need adjusting or reconnecting or a spray with switch cleaner

Having spent the summer enjoying riding around on my Suzuki Marauder, I had a sudden thought that I have just over 12 months to go before my CBT runs out and I will need to re do it. The question is, as I did my theory test a few weeks after doing my initial CBT, does the same apply for the theory test? Would I need to 'redo' the theory test or is it a case of passed it once, no need to redo it?

Hopefully I will have MOD1 & 2 sorted in the coming months and it wont be an issue

Theory has a 2 year life. If you fail to gain a full licence within 2 years you will need to redo theory.

It's not linked to CBT. CBT has a separate 2 year life all of it's own.

Looks like every single thing is a hazard except for never leaving your house.

Don't forget the test is all about spotting DEVELOPING hazards.

Someone standing at the side of the road is a potential hazard, but it's not till they step out that it becomes a DEVELOPING hazard.

Once you can spot the difference between potential and developing you can nail the test.

Yes faster on one side. I read that they can do this if one of the bulbs goes. Is this true?

The front right bulb needs replacing.

There's your answer. Replace the bulb and it should cure your fault.

this restriction stays in place for 2 years after which you can ride any bike you want.

I think that covers it.

It doesn't quite cover it as a further test is required to remove the restriction after 2 years.

Look here...

https://www.gov.uk/ride-motorcycle-moped/bike-categories-ages-and-licence-requirements

i took my driving test in july 1997 and i have on my licence that i am able to drive category's A, BE, GH, would any of these allow me to ride now or would i have to take a cbt or something else to ride?

thanks for the help.

Are you reading these off the paper counterpart, or the photo licence card itself?

If the former, they are the provisional categories. The provisional A entitlement needs to be validated by obtaining a valid CBT certificate.

There are NO shortcuts to riding a motorcycle. There IS a potential shortcut for moped only depending on when you passed your car test.

Ctrl +C

Ctrl +V

maybe?

Or a screenshot?

I can only presume it has something to do with the bike being hot but why on earth is it only happening when I turn the engine fully off and back on and the same isn`t happening when I top and start or move from neutral????

Chris

Side stand switch maybe?

Thinking of getting some cheap used clothing wilst I do my licence. What do you think?

I'm not sure if they provide things like trousers jacket and boots that I don't own.

ant thoughts would be great

Great idea. Look on Ebay there's always loads on there being sold by folk that have given up bikes.

Some (most?) schools provide jackets but not usually boots and/or trousers.

To be honest on some of those clips anything could be a hazard

Correct. But on all bar the "double" clip, they have just a single DEVELOPING hazard.

Had you taken the test properly, you would have known this.

It's a shame when people feel the need to cheat rather than accepting that tests are, generally, designed the way they are for good reason.

I did a hazard perception test for my car licence back in 2007 and again for my bike licence in July The only advice I would give is not to study the clips too hard. The developing hazards tend to stand out like a sore thumb e.g. a clumsy parent with a pushchair who walks into the road without looking, a large lorry pulling out suddenly etc.

I agree. They're all pretty obvious... apart from the bast*rd sheep!!!!!

Its a bloody stupid test if you ask me, just practice practice practice and you'll start to learn the trigger spots that they're likely to have picked to place a hazard (double parked cars, pedestrian crossing, bus stops etc etc)

Or... practice practice practice and you're more likely to spot a developing hazard in the real world and that might just save your life... which makes the test slightly less bloody stupid if you ask me

Don't click on "potential" hazards, only click on those that "develop".

Or to put it another way, only click when the hazard would cause you to check your mirrors (as you would if you thought evasive action, steering or braking, might be needed) - then click for mirror check, and click again for brake or steering input.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BAGSTER-TANK-RUCKSACK-Friendy-FUR-HAUSTIERE-NEHMEN-SIE-IHREN-LIEBLING-IMMER-MIT-/310395310413?pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item484500914d

Hey Joeman.....do you reckon you'd get your dogs in this?......

We had a biker camping here a couple of years ago with a Yorkie in his tankbag. They came all the way from Holland with the dog wearing a little leather flying helmet and goggles.

The side wall will list max pressure.

 

What has max pressure got to do with it?

And yes, I do know someone that confused "max" and "recommended" and rode his bike for a while with 100psi front and back.

Read my post above where I explain myself better, I was correcting the person that said that tyre manufacturers shouldn't be ignored as it sounded like they were saying to go by side wall pressures.

The question was rhetorical

The side wall will list max pressure.

What has max pressure got to do with it?

And yes, I do know someone that confused "max" and "recommended" and rode his bike for a while with 100psi front and back.

just not sure how i will connect the new wiring, never did anything like it before.

Print out the wiring diagram to help identify the correct colours etc and get yourself a crimping tool and connectors to reconnect the wires to whatever headlight unit you to choose to fit.

If it were me, I'd leave the existing one in place and get it working before I thought about replacing it and adding to the problem.

You need something like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crimping-Tool-Set-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-Connectors-Cable-Ties-Pillers-Crimper-/350737187248 and suitable connectors

its not Chinese...... neither is it a cbr copy.

 

You're quite right, it's Korean. My mistake

http://www.daelim.co.uk/

The video on their home page looks fun.

Most things are doable. Have you got a drawing of the rear suspension components.

It's a pretty standard chinese CBR copy. Drawings?

i have a go a daelim vjf 125,

http://i.imgur.com/KDtf3F2.jpg

i was just wondering is it possible to raise the suspension on this bike? i would like to increase the ride height a little.

Wouldn't it perhaps be a better plan to fix the broken bits first?

And learn how to ride it properly?

And then maybe think about redesigning the bike.

To answer your question, yes it's possible, but the manufacturers made it that way for a reason. With enough money, expertise and time, it is certainly possible. In the same way that it's possible to polish a turd, but why would anyone waste their time doing so?

I do think it's all very overpriced but that Pass Certificate is Priceless.

It's not just about passing the test though. It's also about teaching you the skills you are going to need to stay alive on the roads.

On that basis £1000 or even £1400 is pretty cheap in my view.

And don't forget, when one fails a test it indicates a lack of skill and a need for further training, it's not usually just because the examiner is having a bad day and wants to take it out on you.

Apparently if you get 6 points you lose your license on a provisional, and I can't run that risk.

Look up New Driver Act. If you get 6 pts on a new full licence you also lose it.

Maybe slowing down would be advisory?

Can any shed some light onto pro's con's how it all works whats right wrong etc etc ta very much!

I usually assume that the manufacturer has more than a bit of a clue, and follow their recommendations.