jedibiker

7 minutes ago, MikeHorton said:

https://www.wmidlandsmcycles.co.uk/

cheers

6 minutes ago, Pie man said:

what?

2 minutes ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

My wet weather kit is an Oxford Rainseal over-jacket, and Richa over-trousers. I've been through some pretty bad weather and so far so good. They are not that expensive but neither are they dirt cheap.

Just found the richa, good reviews cheers

Hey, well its here, the rainy days are more often. Although our jackets will repel rain to a degree, on longer rides we want to stay dry so having browsed amazon I thought id ask here.

Ive seen cheap to crazy prices, and reviews say some stay dry for an hour then leak a little.. we want dry for hours if possible.. can this be done without spending £100's

cheers

27 minutes ago, Six30 said:

 

is he an ugly fooker ?

haha hes the double of stallone.

21 minutes ago, Stu said:

Good news there @jedibiker  

 

 

In other news I took my bike for a ride to Marshal BMW in Grimsby where I booked it in for a service next Thursday! 

 

This will be the first time any of my bikes have been serviced be a dealer

Did you win the lotto lol

Fitted and tested new rear shock, yesterday/today was settings testing. actually not bad and wont need a tougher spring..

150nm isnt too soft is it anyway, they can get me a spring for my weight for £40. so if this one is to soft its a good option..

14 hours ago, Stu said:

 

I fitted hyperpro progressive front springs and could only get the sag to about 40mm at max! 

 

Same on the FJR too 

 

The bike handled so much better than stock 

actually reassuring to hear... thanks

4 minutes ago, Stu said:

 

Thats pretty much what I was about to say 

 

take it for a spin and see how it feels as while the articles and experts say one thing it doesn't mean you will like the feel of it 

 

I set my TL suspension to the recommended settings to start with after a spring and oil change and while it felt better it was too stiff and took a little tweaking to get right for me 

was where my thinking was going, although they are looking at a spring suited to my weight too. it may be good enough

27 minutes ago, Stu said:

Have you ridden it yet and if so how does it feel? 

test ride tomorrow. spent ages trying to get figures right so had a beer and chilled. I was just saying to the mrs it may not matter as long as it rides ok as its not like im getting knee down on bends etc..

I think maybe we get hung up on articles saying do this and do that when it doesnt always matter. Just want a slightly comfy ride and fun in bends (not knee down)

52 minutes ago, fullscreenaging said:

You need to start off with static sag and go from there. 
You may have already done this but you’ve not mentioned. 
I would also wind the preload to max, see where you are and work back from there. 
Is the spring correct for your weight in full gear? 

i had to have static sag to calculate rider sag buddy. ive no idea if the spring is for my weight, just expected an upgrade to be ideal for varied weights.

So, as expected it didnt go plain sailing.

Fitted a YSS shick to the 650 bandit.. Even got the 1200 version as its meant to be for a heavier bike..

Wound preload really far on and still only getting rider sag to 50mm.. a good 15-20mm out.. im scared to wind it too far and actually didnt think Id have too. I hear these shocks are great, but I guess 17.5stone guys need different spring rates etc.. Baffled as ever..

Any heavy guys use these? And i dont think 17st is even heavy really.

Measurements were 550mm on center stand. the 2 other measurents L2 L3 502mm no stiction which seems odd too

Gave linkage a good strip and clean too.

Im put hagon in my 650 and I dont remember seeing them recommend a bigger gap. They sent 7.5w oil which wasnt enough. Im sure you commented on a thread I was on about it anyway.

Did you like the hydraulic oil?

Ive tried 10w and now 15w all at the proper gap of 104mm the 15w doesnt feel right but as you said, different brands differ. Cornering was harder it seemed. So may go back to 10 and just take it the forks will be as they are. Using nearly all travel.

preload set with 2 full bars to go.. to far and its too stiff

2 hours ago, dynax said:

Good morning using pedal power for the next couple of days, as if I don't ache enough already

Also I'm sure it was @jedibiker who came to the club bike night last night, very nice to meet you and your missus

Was me mate and it was good to put a face to a name.. cheers

Bit of an update, put 15w oil in the forks, preload still wound pretty far in, still travels the same distance and doesnt seem much better at all.. i didnt like the feel in the corners.

maybe im expecting too much from the Hagon springs and still need to wind them far in and just stick with 10w oil.

For the Rear I have a YSS shock brand new... will fit this week so at least that will be better... well, it has to be lol

You can easily just swap springs, getting oil correct harder as forks have to be compressed to test level, but do able with jacks etc.

when high perfomance vehicle sales drop and taxes are missed they will scrap it.

Very relevant post at the minute. All ive seen on facebook this week is crash after crash and sadly most were fatal.. Actually really scared my partner and I as we try and ride safe as it is.

And as said above, you assume cos someone looking at you your safe but they still do dumb shit.

We now beep a few times coming upto busy junctions, try get attention and get them off the phone etc. My partners off years ago was due to someone pulling in front of her, not fast but hurt.

Mine was my own fault on diesel just not reading the road, but it was day 1 of training on cbt.

Also was going to say about oil, I tried extra in mine once and it was solid, you need the air to cushion,. really sad a garage did that as they charge way more than i expected. i was quoted £70 per side last year so learned how to do it. plus help from here was amazing

4 minutes ago, Ian Frog said:

It should do yes !

Beware if you are using a C` spanner from a manufacturers toolkit it WILL slip off and you will hurt your knuckles ! Just beware and protect any adjacent paintwork (Don`t ask how I know).

When tightening your new bearings into place go gently and don`t nip up until you are 300% certain they are seated flat (Cleanliness when you remove the old stuff is next to godliness here).

Cheers

Ian

appreciate your advice buddy

On 15/08/2021 at 17:54, Ian Frog said:

I think that is sensible as tightening is a feel thing !

Tighten gently and maintain free bar movement. You will feel if you have gone too far and at the same time any notchiness (is there such a word?) in the handlebar movement should become obvious.

If in doubt a set of taper roller head bearings from Wemoto will be dropping on your doormat.

Cheers

Ian

Daft question, but does the c tool that adjust the rear shock also double up as a tool to tighten this too? looks similiar.

5 minutes ago, Ian Frog said:

I tend to be with @Bender on this (Strewth that`s probably a first lol).

If you can feel the play or hear a clonk or knock it is probably too much, the bars should move freely with the wheel elevated but forward to rear movement shouldn`t be "noticeable" (searching for better term please forgive).

Cheers

Ian

I agree, its a very tiny movement but il get it tightened a little and see if it helps, if not then new bearings it is.

17 minutes ago, Bender said:

Not so much that you can move it and hear it. 

More of a feel thing, feeling it click a little.

Just wanted to ask on this after searching so not creating a new post,

How much play would you expect from headstock bearings, doing the test of wheel elevated, pull bottom of forks back and forth, and seem to have a very tiny bit of play.. bars move very freely side to side..

but the play is tiny like a click..

Before I get the tools out to adjust just curious if some play normal..

cheers all