polecat

Its a standardish MOTAD 2 into 1 instead of the original 2 into 2 It does not have any points I belive...think it is the CDI box thing ?

Tappets are now done ! YAY another DIY job learned (They were too tight) I think I know which is the mixture screws and might play about with them tomorrow If not then I reckon it must be ignition timimng or blocked Jets

yeah I did 28 miles yesterday and the plugs are quiet clean still but a whitish colour on the metal bit over the electrode and that is not listed in the haynes manual at all ....its all grey or sooty or oily in the manual and mine as I said is clean but whiteish,the electrodes look like when I put them in

Yikes Ill go and do that ........ Edit : yes I did turn it and the washery thing vanished ...phew (never seen one of them in there so it worried me )

So I changed the plugs for New ones and it has made no difference .... SO for all you mechanics out there I am now looking for the next solution I emptied the float chambers and there was no dirt I took out the new plugs and the ends are white coloured but not fouled I did notice the gasket on the bottom of the float chamber is leaking (could it be drawing air in and making it run restricted) I am getting a friend to help me adjust the tappets (incase thats the problem) When looking down the left plug port I did notice what looks like an offset washer inside (which was not on the right side) and wondered if that is actually a part of the engine in the wrong place or os that normal Any other Ideas what it could be if none of the above ? I have the day off today and will try and sort it out if I know what I am looking for.

I rode a bike to the garage with a nail in my tyre and can say it is a very unsettling thing to do. If you really have to take the bike in, then ride really slow and easy as if it was going to go flat at any minute

I am going to put them in today So Fingers crossed ! bloomin Rained since they arrived so not had a chance yet

You could eat your dinner from the inside of my Airbox New filter in there and oiled up as the one in there when I got it was full of holes and about 50 beech leaves Your right Colin the plugs came today and they look hansome compared to the ones in the bike so Ill change them then look at the tappets this weekend

I think to save my sanity I will book it in for valves adjustment and carb sync then do the rest my self It will be interesting to see what diference the plugs make but I only got the standard ones to start with cos I'm tight

Ok I may feel brave enough to give it a go next week can you damage the thing running it badly adjusted ? Its working but I wanted more hands on info than internet can provide and I imagined tappets to be somethng that Taps and valves as something that stops air coming out of it ! Haynes does not mention tappets at all

Good thinking batman Ill change the plugs and work from there but Maby the tappets causing it or carb sync,thanks

ah so tappeets are now valves ok relook at Haynes

Question to one of you Smart Ones ! Mechanic said I need to adjust the tappets and could do it myself in a couple of hours. What the heck is a tappet and why is it not mentioned in my HAYNES manual ? How hard is it to do them when I find where they are and if they exsist ? Mechanical Noob so be gentle

So you open the throttle and it feels like it wants to let go but is being held back Can Bad plugs make this much diference to performance or is it going to be something else more hard ?

Thanks Fozzie I'm not sure what I will do with it now (I did not think that far ahead ) It certainly is a diferent riding experience to my XJ600 So I either keep it for odd days out and bike meets and keep improving it or I sell it as it is and call it quits .....Dunno Think I need to play on it a bit more before I decide Thanks Hodgy it was one of those things where you hate the whole experience at the time but look back fondly later on Glad I did it though, and if it had failed I would have felt I had failed so I'm chuffed

Took My CB250T to have its MOT Had a scary ride to Penzance as I did not know what might fall off or what I may have not put together properly. anyhow arrived and it went in the workshop and I waited outside nervously. Motor engineer came out pushing my bike and said "want the good news or the bad news ?" I said "Bad news I guess" "Your bike Failed to meet the requirments and has failed the MOT !!" "Great,whats the good news ? " He had a bit of a smirk on his face and said " I adjusted the headlight and now its passed ! " So it Passed with just a badly aligned headlight and 3 advisorys for front tyre perishing pitting on the fork stantions and rear shocks Not bad for a total newbie huh He adjusted the angle of the handlebars as he said I had them too far forward. All the mechanics were impressed with the quality of the restore and said I had done a superb job Value wise taking into account what I spent, he said I could spend another £400 on it and not loose my money (they restore bikes so know these things ) So After that long journey 3 months after I bought it, The CB250T lives again and fully road legal Don't know if it was worth saving, but it certainly was worth the experience of doing it. The Ride home was a lot of Fun as I could relax a bit and apart from the fact it needs the tappets doing,plugs need replacing and the carbs are a bit rough,Its a very comfortable and stable bike Hope you enjoyed this little story and to anyone thinking of doing simalar I would advise, once you decide to do it,stick at it and don't stop until it is done. There are so many unfinished projects for sale because during the process you want to give up many times and I think, Like running,the secret is to go through the pain barrier and come out the other side knowing you will end up with a working bike that you helped save from the scrap heap The End

Its an expensive part to neglect so I polish miine on the XJ600 every day or so to keep them perfect and use plenty of acf when the bike is not in use. I think the only real solution when they go bad is to replace them

I thought I would end up getting the wrong ones, but with a bike this age you have to take what you can get It didnt feel lucky WEll......normal brakes you cant bleed the banjo but Goodridge ones have a nut on each banjo for bleeding the mechanic said the air gets trapped in em and you end up just pushing it around !

Little bast*rd seagull just crapped from a great height on my head and all over my shiney bike as I was doing the banjos ! Anyhow little update.....brakes just improved 100 % after I bled the banjo's and the forks actually DIP when I apply them so shows something is working right When I rang the Motorcycle engineer he said anything that needs attention after the MOT he will put right anyway so it Should pass Gonna try and get some insurance on it now ready for Monday

Sounds to me as if the pistons are not travelling immediately, which would fit with "stops when it wants to, eventually". With the brake off, there shoudl be a gap between the pad and the disc (piston in). Slide a piece of paper between pad and disc. Apply brake. A properly funcioning brake will stop you pulling the paper out instantly, a sluggish brake will stop you pulling it out after a second or two. Is yours instant or sluggish? If it's sluggish I would suggest a problem with the calipers, in that the pistons are sticking for some reason. Strip down, clean, renew seals, rebuild, retest Did the paper test and it grips streight away rang My friendly Motorcycle engineer and he said that there most likely is an Air lock in the banjo and you are meant to Bleed the banjo before you bleed the caliper Never heard that before but I will give it a try

thanks Hodgy cleaning it made no diference but I noticed How smooth and shiney the outside of the disc is ! The pads on before were honda ones and same problem thats why i changed them for these No matter how hard I pull the lever it stops when it is ready should I sand paper the outside of the disc with 80 grit and rough it up a bit ? I found this : http://www.ehow.com/how_4421355_clean-g ... otors.html

cheers but I do not have an MOT so cant ride it until on the way to the mot I will try cleaning it with some degreaser thought and see if it makes a diference ....Right now

Is the plug connected to the series of events that followed ? If the plug somehow caused to much power drain somewhere and something blew it could have caused a short circuit and fried the battery but I thought they are gel ones on the YBR ? Anyhow You will have to test the electrics with a multimeter as suggested but you can always test the battery with a 12v bulb just to eliminate that part of it first and When you fix it maby put the old plug back incase it happens again ! Maby the reason you got the new plug in the first place was because a problem was already building with the rectifier or the fuel injection side of things and it mayby just coincidence it happened with the new plug in it

As some of you know I have a CB250 T I rebuilt the caliper (New boots,new seals,new nearly everything ) I bled the brakes and it had the stoping power of a run away train. SO........I bought new brake pads and Goodridge hose and rebled the brakes Now it has the stopping power of a run away train with a parachute attached. So why do you think does not work properly ? If I apply the brake it does not feel spongy or anything it just takes a while to come to a stop no matter how much brake is applied Is it the disc is too shiney ? I think the master cylinder is working ok cos it pumps fluid well enough when I am bleeding it. Apart from throwing the bike in a skip and getting a new one what should I do next ? Or is the cb250 brake supposed to be a apply brake stop in a minute type of bike ?

I may have put the other way around as I did not mark which went which side of the disc I understand now you mention it how the pads should have gone back the way they are and yes the brake is hard but the pads are not gripping the disc as far as I can see so hopefully the New pads and hose will be great too late ! GOLDFREN were the only ones I could find for my bike at the time so I will go with them (they were not cheap either) At least the Goodridge Hose will be good