eastanglianbiker

It will have large washers between the airbox and carbs, inside the rubbers. Just take them out. My ex500 had them when i bought it the bike wouldnt go over 90mph and had no power band. Much nicer when they were out.

the er5 dont go much over 90 at the best of times but will be smoother and a bit quicker getting there unrestricted

if you are going to ride round paris make sure your life insurance is up to date

update your other post then its a nightmare when posts are in different areas about the same things

your cbt still needs to be in force otherwise you are not legal to be on the road so couldnt do the road riding of mod2

if its been nearly 2 years maybe he should check his cbt as well as his theory paperwork

Just been through the tunnel tonight around 8ish.. I had no idea what to do when I got to the gate!? Until I seen the sign that said just wait

so are you still waiting ??

have a look in wickes as well they seem to have some good deals at times

yes as its trying to start on 1 cylinder only

ht lead shorting out to the frame will cause the problem when testing it outside the engine for a spark you might be twisting it just enough to make it work and then not once back into the correct place also check the condition of where the lead screws into the cap as that can get corroded

has each cylinder got it own coil then i thought they were single coil so it could be the coil is knackered swap them over and see what happenssee if it t hen runs on the front and not the back you know its had it

one possible reason could be a dodgy starter motor drawing all the current away from the cdi and the longer you have button pressed the longer it keeps the spark killed for,but once it is running is it now running on both cylinders or still only the rear one,also when did it last have fresh petrol in it ?

done my time of being cold years ago before half the members on here were old enough to ride a 2 wheeled pushbike let alone a motorbike

because it is designed for a 320mm disc and yours is only 300mm making it 20mm smaller making it less contact surface area

as tango says the spacing and offset will be different as you calliper has no rear pistons and even if it did work to lose 10mm off the braking area is a huge amount it wold mean only half the surface area would be in use of the pad or maybe less so got to agree dont bother it would be more hassle than its worth if it fitted at all

congrats on passing enjoy the new bike take care on it and as others have said now the real learning starts ..........................roll on summer

What if me and a friend built something ? Honda Cbr monkey bike special ... does this count

Or yamaha t80 -needs forks putting back on front axle needed few little bolts here and there, £150 Full logbook did have MOT runs

OR

.....

Sinis max 2 or something like that Runs(needs a carb clean and plug) with MOT needs a head light and few other odds and sods £150 as far as i know the logbook present

just a few i know of sitting in sheds gathering dust.

read page 1.....chinese bikes only

So, after a bit of a delay I finally managed to trial run the Carbon Fibre......a few air voids and other little issues, but I think I'm heading in the right direction.......

bob they are not air voids.......................theya are custom made one offs making them worth fortunes as they are the only ones like it

depends on condition mileage what it needs for the mot after all it could be £20 or it could be £250 to get it through the mot and same goes for resale value depends what new on it mileage and such like ive seen tatty ones go for 750 and mint ones for 2 grand so impossible to guess a price

normally the mixture screw you would screw in untill you feel it tighten up then turn it out about 1 1/2 turns is rough setting to what it should run and then can be fine tuned from there to get it right,have you had the carb apart at all?if so have you checked the jets are all clear and the float height is correct?but its still sounding like it could be either vacum problem or compression problem on the front cylinder

its time to strip the carb check it is all clean and the jets are clear then set it back to basic factory settings and see if the bike runs then but it could also be the vacuum fuel pump playing up due to a air leak or something

dont forget easter is early t his year last weekend in march

trouble is with pay and display where can you display a ticket on a bike thats safe other users of the car park will be able to walk up to the bike take the ticket and use it in or on what ever they are driving/riding so you get the parking ticket and they park for free thats one good reason bikes should be free to park

Is it something you can nip a bit of tape round to see if that's the problem?

wrap some gaffer tape or insulating tape round it to see if that helps but to be fair the plug should still be getting wet one way to see if the rubber has split right through is start the bike up and spray a bit of wd40 at the inlet rubber if the revs increase then its leaking

if it has got a fuel pump you should hear it working for a few seconds as you turn the ign on and then as you turn the engine over on the start button......forget that ive just seen its vacuum operated i assume you have all the vacuum pipes onto it correctly?

that might be an overflow hose going down under the engine to remove any over flow of petrol away from hot engine the 2 pipes you can see are the correct ones to the fuel tap and you cant get t hem round the wrong way normally due to being different sizes have you checked the fuel pump is working correctly and i think you need to check compression in case one of the valves have closed up on front cylinder head