oslin06

sorry I have to agree with davefly, and I like other road users to see I am turning so the bigger the better for me, within reason Keith

just a quick comment here, I have had 26 bikes to date and been riding for ever and an ex Rocker, I have never ridden a bike with the balls of my feet on the foot rest we were always taught not to do that, except when racing so you do not stick your boot in the tarmac on the corners, also the reaction time is more than sliding your foot from the side in an emergancy, re the brake pedel, is there no adjustment on the height either with the pedel itself or the linkage to make it more comfortable ? there normally is. Keith

It might also be water or crap in the tank and carbs, have a look in the tank with a torch and drop the float bowls or carbs off to check them out, oddly our Postman runs a Bandit 600 and that just stopped one day and it took me ages to find the fault, it was a multi connector under the seat which was not making proper contact, I would also suggest cleaning all the connectors you can find with electrical cleaner including in the headlamp. good luck keith

sounds like you have moved the gear selector drum/linkage and it is now in a position it should not be, as said above take it apart again and inspect it all and make sure the selectors are in there detents correctly. Keith

Get hold of a wall drive socket, they do not use the corners of the nut/bolt to grip on just the flats and it should come undone. Keith

Use a bit of heat as the alloy will expand before the bolts and make them easier to get out, Keith

check for an air leak i.e. vacuum pipe off or split rubbers on the carbs or the rubber blanks missing on the top of the carbs. Keith

Just for the record the breather hole is to allow the diaphragm to move up and down without causing a vacuum behind it, which would stop it moving and opening and closing the tap. Keith

You have not got water in the tank have you ? Keith

Just poking my nose in here, first of all are you sure the lines were there when thay did the seals, or has it arrived since ? if you decide to have a go your self you might be lucky and be able to use a very fine stone and remove the lines so long as they are not to deep, if they are the seal will not be able to take up the difference, I have done this in the past. Keith

Also if you are carefull you will not need cam cover gaskets they are rubber, but if you do they are expensive, make sure the gaskets for the spark plug holes are in place when you lower the cam cover back in place, you can withdraw the spring and plunger for the tensioner but if there is no slack in the chain when you remove the cam cover I would not worry about it, but if you do decide to have a look at the spring and plunger (they can stick sometimes) make sure the rachet is retracted when you re fit it as it will spring forward when it is in its location if you do not you will cause a lot of damage. Keith

If I understand you correctly, the snap in valve pulled through the rim with a tool and has a mushroom behind it to seal against the inside of the rim with the pressure, and the clamp in type is much the same but has a nut and washer on the outside of the rim which forces the mushroom on the inside against the inside or the rim with the thread, this type was common on older bikes and is still used on some tyre tubes, it stopped the tube sliding on the rim. Hope this helps. Keith

Well I tried to watch the vids but they kept stopping half way through, I updated windows media player but it made no difference has anybody got any ideas what is wrong please Keith

ECU's dont often pack up and can be expensive I would still get the fault code to make sure before spending money, you could just run it down to your dealer if you can, and get them to give you the code reading if you can not get the gear to do it yourself ? I am sure it will be cheaper in the long run rather than guessing Keith

If you are worried about the copper washer crushing properly, heat the washer up to cherry red and drop it in to cold water, it will be soft after that, but copper does will work harden with age but then you can do it again and again Keith

Also check your hand book, some bike engines need the oil level to be checked when HOT otherwise you will over fill it, which is not good for the engine, just fill to half way up the glass and warm the engine up to running temp and allow to stand for 5 mins so the oil drains back and top up if required to just under the top line. Keith

Zod first check there is a low tension supply (12v) to the coil with the ignition switched on (use a meter) if there is check the resistance of the coil (in the book) if that is ok, next check the electronic ignition diods under the crank case cover on the end of the crank and also for any broken wires (again use a meter to test the wires are not broken somewhere on the frame), and make sure the gap is correct between the diod and the rotating trigger (looks a bit like a star), assuming you have electronic ignition, you must get the spark working before you can check anything else. Keith Oh p.s. I had a friends bike around the other day (600 bandit) with an electrical problem, It would not start, so I disconnected all the multi plugs and cleaned them with electrical cleaner (spray type, screw fix ) you will find plugs behind the head light and all over the frame etc do them all. it ran after that. Keith

Datatool units are a pain in the arse, I have had three bikes with it on and I have removed them all and replaced them with Meta alarms, much better

Having read your post I was wondering about a crank shaft seal, if one is leaking it will cause big problems, just a thought. Keith

As the flote pillers tops seem broken it would look from the photo to be clear on both sides of the pillers, you could make up two stainless hoops and pin/screw one side to the pillers to secure the flote pin in place, just a thought, I would not glue them again. Keith

Hi Skikman, pity you did not list your location I was trying to see where you were with a view to coming to help you, but I have no idea where you are. keith

Go for it these companys are a rip off and why the insurance companys do not investergate them for fraud I do not know, My wife had a Corsa and got bumped in the back breaking the plastic bumper the coachworks quoted £1000 to fix it, the insurance company wrote it off, but I claimed salvage on it, I got a cheque for £500 and the car, I went down the scrap yard and bought a new bumper for £25 and fitted it, I then had to re MOT it and all was fine but it remained a cat C for the rest of its life, Oh and I sold it a year later for £1600 Keith

They look the same to me except one is black and the gaskets are slightly different I would go for the polished one myself, but only if the rest of your system is polished as well.

I am possibly wrong, but I thought they were a 600cc single and popular with side car owners at the time, I was not awair they made smaller ones? Keith

Hi merp24, just a note for you, if you ever want studs you cant find or buy, go to your local engineering firm and they will make them for you, or if you can get use of a lathe and make them your self, Good luck whatever you decide and thanks for the thread, I always find rebuilt threads interesting. keith