megawatt
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Everything posted by megawatt
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I trust split links on 350bhp drag bike. They just need fitting properly.
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If you can get down to Hastings, I'll show you how to do it.
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1981 GSX1100ET
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Where are you?
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Have you tried the pull off test that I suggested?
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Sounds like knackered chain and sprockets to me. Check this by grabbing back of chain on rear sprocket at 3 O'clock position. Pull chain straight back. If it lifts more than 3mm, it probably needs replacing. Check again when chain is slack. Also spin rear wheel backwards. Listen and watch chain. Report back.
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How many miles has the chain done?
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Funnily enough, I've just bought a second hand, home made one. Sealey make some good ones. Make sure you get one that's wide and long enough, has room for the sidestand and has a cradle at the front to hold bike in position while you tie it down. -
I'm going to Ireland in August. I'm told the west coast is stunning. Giants causeway in the North is spectacular. Try the Eire tourist board site.
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You should remove any WD from the inside of the casings with brake cleaner. All the internals should be clinically clean and then oiled with fresh engine oil, then all the gears meshed, gear selector mechanisms stroked several times and all crank bearings lubed.
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Why did you use WD 40?
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Have you run it through all the gears?
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Replace pads, try it, then replace fluid.
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Been using wd40 to clean electrical contacts for 42 years, never been a problem.
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Sounds like a loose connection somewhere. Check all the ignition circuit wiring, wd40 all the connections and switches. Operate the ignition and cutout switches multiple times.
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Hope so. The ET motor had 60% on 3 cylinders.
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I'll have a look tomorrow mate, destructions are in the garage Got the head off today. No signs of bent valves, but pouring petrol down the inlet ports shows leakage past the valves on No. 1 combustion chamber and very good sealing on the others. I'll remove the valves tomorrow for some straightness checks and lapping.
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£120 from Lidl, with 50litre tank and 3 year warranty.
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Yep. Before connecting to engine, increase pressure until gauge reads zero in SET area, then connect to engine. It's pretty obvious when there's a lot of leakage.
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Just checked valve clearances. Nothing excessive indicating possible bent valves. Most of em too tight indicating possible burnt exhaust valves. Think the head will be coming off tomorrow.
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Compression test doesn't tell you where gas is leaking from combustion chamber. Leakdown tester puts compressed air into the chamber. You can hear where the leaks are from, either exhaust pipe, carbs/injectors or engine breather for leaking piston rings. It also gives you a percentage leakdown. Only £20 on eBay. But you will need a compressed air supply. Next step is check valve clearances, then probably remove cylinder head and lap valves in.
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Just completed leak down tests on my spare GSX1100 EFE engine. All went well on cylinders 2,3&4.Unfortunately cylinder 1 was indicating 25%leakdown. OK for a road car, but not for a race bike. I'll check the inlet valve clearances, just in case, but it looks like the head will need to come off.
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I said earlier, I fitted two taps and two tee pieces for main and reserve. Strip and clean the carbs and check and clean the float valve needles AND SEATS.
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My fuel tap was exactly the same. Couldn't find a problem with it, but it still did it. Fuel into sump via a leaking float valve and the airbox.
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Find out what size jets a similar 150cc bike to yours takes, or it's gonna be trial and error. Or get it on a dyno to find out the air/fuel ratio. Maybe a tuner of similar sized bikes will know if you give him the work. Probably cheaper to just keep going up in jet sizes until it runs rich, then backing off a size.
