Joeman

It has to be reflective. Think thats only if first registered after 2001.

Excessive twisting force may damage the valve.

What it looks like in daylight. From the photo i noticed the wiring is sagging a bit, so i'll have to stick a cable tie on that! Looks way better than the standard plastic tail.. Photo taken before i took her for a good thrashing today.

I have managed it this way plenty of times and you can get them just as good as having a bleed nipple. Bleed nipples are placed at the highest point on a caliper or where air gets trapped. If you imagine a bottle of water held in one position the spot with the air is where the bleed nipple would be. So- have the system reservoir full and brake line all connected but caliper not mounted. Two people is easiest. Hold the caliper so that the Banjo Bolt (where hose attaches) is at the highest point (imagining a water bottle) and bleed through this bolt. Simples and works every time! Best method Hold down crack bolt, tighten, pump pedal and repeat! Defs get this done if you aren't worried about having a snapped nipple! Nice method!! - welcome to the forum

So how come they don't go back in when you're trying to pump the pistons out this is a good little demonstration for you: "> look how when the pedal is released, the fluid comes back fro the brake line into the master cylinder.

The spring in the master cylinder that returns the brake lever to its original position pulls the piston out. that draws the fluid back up the brake line causing the caliper pistons to retract and pull the pads away from the disc.

Got any teasers you could share??

Checked eBay? Would be suprised if they Dont come up for sale occasionally. How badly damaged are yours? Sure they are not repairable?

And the attitude of the person getting pulled over... you sure your lad didnt get lippy with the copper?

I've got a helmet cam as well, but you just know the one time I really needed the footage will be the time the battery has died or I forgot to press record. Also, if I'm laying dead in a ditch I won't be able to stop the recording so I Dont want the vital evidence of the accident being recorded over with close up shots of hedgerow!! Hard wired, zero hassle solution to compliment the helmet cam footage would be great. If it could connect to my home WiFi and upload the footage to my NAS drive when i get home that would be awesome. No faffing about with memory cards or USB cables..

Yep, I know what you mean. I keep intending to hard wire a pair of cameras into my bike. Power on when the bike starts, record on a loop, power off when the bike stops. One camera facing forward and the other facing backwards. Now I have an old helmet cam to try this with, I just need to find a way to wire the power cable in permanently and waterproof.

"If in doubt, flat out" - Colin McRae (RIP)

Do the crime, pay the fine. Small plates look cool, and let's face it, there are virtually no cops on the roads these days anyway. I was even tempted to go with a black and white rear plate. It would look so cool on my all black bike. Was thinking of making it reversible, so standard yellow on one side, black and white on the other... After all, if you're gonna get busted, you may as well get busted for being too cool.

Depends on your bike, where you're riding and what mood you're in at the time. Like cat says, on the 600 sports bikes, life begins and 8k rpm, by keeping the engine "on the boil" you always have a nice shot of power available for fun. Ride how you feel most comfortable, but as the roads dry out they do get more fun

I like a good challenge I sent a message to the seller, and got them to agree to a 15quid refund for my time. so I got a tail tidy for 35quid - not so bad and covers the cost of my new numberplate

So long as you haven't damaged the threads, you should be OK. The more of the stud that's drilled out the better. Worth watching some vids on YouTube of how to use an easyout. Replacing the part would be last resort for me.

Have you looked at using an "easy out" to screw the broken stud back out? If it went in cleanly, it should come out OK.

Long way off but its just up the road from me so will try to pop in.

The S1000RR has a really stupid tail, so i had to get a tail tidy for it. I looked about for one, and they are not cheap!! I found this one on eBay.. The advert said: 35 of them sold, and the seller has high feedback score.. Great, i thought, so hit the buy now.. and coughed up 50quid! (Ouch!) It arrived today: Doesn't look much for 50quid, but it feels pretty sturdy, so if it does the job then thats fine.. The instructions looked easy, so i decided to start fitting it at 11:30pm tonight... To get to the wiring i had to remove the factory alarm system - very easy, just one screw and one plug - no mention of this in the instructions... Next i noticed was that the OEM indicator wires would need to be cut to free them from the OEM tail unit. No mention of this in the eBay advert or instructions.. Next i noticed that the holes for the OEM numberplate light were too close together - had to get the drill out and elongate the holes in the metal tail tidy - so much for "No drilling" as is said in the advert... To make a proper job of it, i shortened all the wires - they had to be cut anyway, so it saved having loads of spare cable tucked away. With all the cutting and soldering and taping up i must have spent at least 20mins on the wiring alone! Finally i went to install the number plate, and guess what - the holes didn't line up, so i ended up having to drill two new holes in my numberplate - i now need a new number plate as it looks stupid with the extra holes In total it must have taken me a good hour to fit, but i took my time with the wiring and did a couple of test fits to get the wire lengths right. But ultimately, it was totally not as described, there is no way on earth anyone could get this fitted in 15-20mins.... In fact i dont think they have every had one of these anywhere near a real-life S1000RR. if they had, they would know that none of the holes are correctly spaced! I'm pretty pleased with the end result - certainly looks a lot better that the stupid OEM tail, but i wish the instructions had been honest about the level of work required!!! i might not have started at 11:30pm had i have known the truth...

I really like this! . Cheers! Just invented it.. Its the same method they use for fixing chips in car windscreens. Suck all the air out,then allow the clear resin to be sucked into the Vacuum in the crack.

Google nexus5 is the better phone IMO. And plenty of waterproof cases for it.

How do i get all the air out the calliper, if i cant remove the bleed nipple to get the air out? Disconnect from the master cylinder and suck from there.. Works in theory.. No idea how you would achieve the vacuum in practice!!

Suck all the air out so you created a vaccum in the caliper. Pinch the brake line with a brake line clamp, fill the hose above the clamp with fluid, and hold end of pipe in fluid. Release the clamp. Fluid will be sucked into the caliper. Some air will still be in the brake line but that will float out.

Lots of the Motorcross boys use a "Rekluse" clutch conversion to make their bikes semi-automatic. that could open up your choice of bikes? lots of vids on YouTube showing how the Rekluse clutch works.

I think it depends on the profile/pressure/temperature of your tyres as to any change in contact patch size - obviously until you roll off the edge of them! Buckle up chaps, this could be a long one. http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/resources/6795/assets/images/FAQs/tyres/tyre_info/notorcycle_tyre_tire_contact_patch.jpg