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Hi mate. All lights that are fitted have to be secure and fully working, and all lenses have to be the correct colour and intact (you will get away with a crack). You need mirrors fitted to pass the MOT. Not sure about dash display lights. I don't think they are an MOT fail. Exhaust goes through noise and emissions. If the hole you have repaired is small enough, it may be ok, but if it fails the noise test because of it or the emissions are too high it will fail. Tax doesn't come under MOT I take it the engine is covered by fairing? If so, MOT testers cannot remove fairing to check, so should be ok. Horn has to work I think if it has no stand on it, it can't be failed on something that isn't there. Brake pads need to be within the wear marks. If they are below the minimum thickness they will fail. If I were you, I would get it to a garage and get them to check it over. Never ignore brakes, you can lose your life, or worse still, take someone elses if your brakes fail. The garage may be able to spot weld your exhaust, mirrors should always be attached to your bike anyway so you can see what is in the other lanes before moving out! Hope this all helps and good luck.

In that case mate, as long as the list price is reasonable, I would go and have a look, start it from cold (feel the engine or down pipes first to make sure that it hasn't just been started up before you get there). There may be a slight ticking from the engine at first, normal most of the time till the oil gets circulating, but there should be no obvious knocking. Check the oil filler for signs of white gumy fluid, may indicate dodgy head gasket or warped head. I would imagine if it's been used maily for track days that the brakes and chain and sprockets etc have been very well maintained. As mentioned above, check for crash damage, apart from that, if you're too cautious, you can miss a bargain! Best be on the safe side and take it out for a couple of miles test ride, making full use of all the gears, moderate and harsh braking, and crawling speed at the bite. Check the exhausts for smoke etc when you've finished (shouldn't be any, but with the weather like it is, expect lots of evaporation) Good luck. Whats she asking by the way?

The same thing happened to my wifes sr125. The o ring had deteriorated on the stop screw for the drain. Shut the fuel off, take the screw out (you will lose a little more fuel here) and check the state of the o rings and replace.

Hello, I've never had an R6, but there is always the danger of getting one that has been completely thrashed. I think I would be first checking the obvious on the engine, such as cracked head gasket or warped barrel, rattly cam chain etc. I think the R6 from that year are pretty much solid. Be prepared to spend a little on it though. I always buy used, and I am always ready to replace chain and sprockets, oil, plugs, filters, pads, brake fluid and am prepared to replace tyres, possibly the clutch. Any thing more then it's beginning to get a bit too expensive.

I use Kyoto pads and have done for years and I have never had any problems. I don't race my bike mind...

I have never had any luck with organic pads, find they wear down about 20 times faster too. Waste of money. As with the Tesco oil, I never knew they did it. I may give it a try on my next oil change. Great to hear about the home brew kits. I used to brew a couple of years ago, to a point where I had three presure barrels at a time in the garage working out as 11p a pint! Watch your waistline though.

I had a similar problem splitting my forks on my cb750. The clip needs to come out or they wont split. I gave up on mine in the end and took the forks to the garage. It took the guy about 2 hours and had to burn the seals out with a propane torch, they were that stuck! If they're on a Superdream (fantastic bike by the way), they will be very hard to remove I would imagine due to the age.

Though I didn't get round to fitting GPS on my bike, I made a 12V car socket attachment with a switch and fuse and about 1 metre of wire. I connected it straight to the battery and kept it switched off under the seat. You can then charge it like you do in a car and easily unplug it when you need to. You can get car GPS waterproof mounting kits to fit on bike handlebars on ebay for a reasonable amount.

Thanks

That digital adaptor thing looks cool. How much was that?

Sounds like a fuel problem to me. Check the fuel filter and line first. If not, maybe a blockage in one of the carbs or they may need balancing. When was your last service? Does is idle ok?

Goos work! First crash is always the worst one, as a lot of people never get back on a bike! As already said, indicators very easy. The wires are push fit, for easy removal. You can't go wrong. Just look at it and it will be common sense. NEVER be afraid of working on your own bike my friend. You will know it inside out in no time if you do your own work, and now thanks to the internet, there is nothing you need to do without instruction.

I get all my consumables from wemoto (google it). I honestly nearly always go for the cheapest! Brake pads I go for are about £10 a set, cheapest clutch friction plates (though I do go for the heavy duty clutch springs). I have always used NGK plugs, and they work great. DOT 4 brake fluid, doesn't matter who makes it, it's all the same as long as it says 'DOT 4' on the label! Engine oil.....Well, this is where there are many arguments. I change my oil every 4 months. I use Halfords motorbike oil, which is about £25 for 5 litres. VERY cheap. Does the job fine. Don't buy into all these special additives etc, you will be wasting money big time. Look in your hand book. It will give the the correct vicosity (not sure how to spell it) for your bike, but it will be within the range of the Halfords cheap stuff. Air filters and oil filters, for a bike like yours, go for the cheaper option. At the end of the day, its some folded paper in a metal tube! It has a job to do, and the cheap ones do the same job just as well, that goes for all the above bits as well. Of course, if your going to race your bike on a track, then you may want something a bit better to put in your bike, but for every day riding, it will be better than OK.

That should do the job mate

I love em!

I have two. One small that does about 10 - 40, and a large that does about 30 - 200. If you do a lot of work on your bike, you will need two. Guessing low torque ranges on an engine block can mean a very expensive mistake. A reasonable torque wrench, looked after properly, will last for many years.

A quick way to check the above is to turn the fuel on, and tw*t the side of the carb with a wrench (or rubber mallet if it's your pride and joy). This should free up the float and should stop the fuel overflowing. It's a common problem on basic bikes, espesially if they are dropped or crashed. Don't worry too much, it will be something basic. Give it a go and let me know how you get on. Rob

I've never paid more than £10 for a flasher relay. You don't need a Triumph one! Relays do mess up from time to time and it's an easy and cheap part to start with.

As he said. Do this first as it's free! A rapidly flashing indicator is an interuption in the circuit, be it blown bulb or other. If bulb isn't blown, then sand down the connectors in the lamp, probably a poor connection. No need to go searching around all the wiring, it will be restricted to that bulb and/or housing of that bulb. Fear not! PS, indicators do tend to collect water

I would assume that the reg/ rec is fine after such a short life. Sounds like an alternator problem to be rather than a battery problem (but I may be wrong). Are you sure the reg.rec is the right one? seems to be putting out a few more volts than required.

Top man! I do all my bits and bobs myself. Chaine are just something you will have to get used to. First time will take a while, but like brakes, you will learn quickly. Take the front sprocket cover off, put the bike on side stand, pressure on the rear brake and with a long wrench/ ratchet or spanner, undo the bolt (castle nuts will have a cotter pin that you will need to take off first). Cut the old chain off (with a hacksaw or grinder - which is a lot easier), remove rear wheel, remove rear sprocket, put new one on (may be a good idea to get new bolts as they are high torque), replace rear wheel, line it up and place new chain over new sprockets. Seat chain ends over rear sprocket, put master link in, then (you will need a chain riveter for this), squash the pins down in position. Job done. A chain riveter will cost around 20 - 30 quid, but will last you forever! Take up the slack in the chain to your bikes spec, then do up the axle nuts to the correct torque. Invest in a good range torqur wrench, it will last for years and save you loads doing your own servicing etc. Get a haynes manual for your bike or go on ebay and get a CD manual. Fixing your own bike is not as difficult as people like to make out, just dont rush it. I have done all my maintanance on my bikes and it cost me about £100 for tools, the rest was spent on parts, labor is the pricey bit. You will know the job is done correctly when you do it yourself (as you will not take shortcuts) Good luck Rob

From what I have heard, I would say that the cluth cable is either worn or too loose, just a thought. It seems that the engine runs fine in neutral, but when taking off, it stalls. I reckon it's worth checking, if those friction disks are compressing straight away, the bike will stall like you describe. Does the bike creep forward when in gear and cluth lever pulled right in?