YAMAHA FZS FAZER 600 "CATEGORY C" RESTORATION PROJECT

[Guest Hodgy]

Keep the spare lever, cable tie it to the frame under your seat, then you always have a spare should the worst happen when your out and the bike falls over breaking the lever, I always keep a brake and clutch lever cable tied to the frame when I'm out touring, never had to use them, but for a few £ it's good insurance against being stranded

[mealexme]

Keep the spare lever, cable tie it to the frame under your seat, then you always have a spare should the worst happen when your out and the bike falls over breaking the lever, I always keep a brake and clutch lever cable tied to the frame when I'm out touring, never had to use them, but for a few £ it's good insurance against being stranded

lol, thats actually a really goot idea! Just make sure you have the tools to fix it with too...

[Guest Hodgy]

Keep the spare lever, cable tie it to the frame under your seat, then you always have a spare should the worst happen when your out and the bike falls over breaking the lever, I always keep a brake and clutch lever cable tied to the frame when I'm out touring, never had to use them, but for a few £ it's good insurance against being stranded

lol, thats actually a really goot idea! Just make sure you have the tools to fix it with too...

 

It's usually just a screwdriver, perhaps a pair of pliers too, and can be done in seconds.

My ex broke her clutch lever in the Lake district one Sunday afternoon, it took hours to sort, first the AA patrol had to come and look, then they had to arrange for recovery, the next day I then had to go find a bike shop in the area that had a clutch lever that would fit a GS500, all for the sake of a £5 part! So from then on we both kept spare levers cable tied out of the way on the frame, that way they couldn't get 'left out' by accident

[polecat]

Well I had a busy day painting today and this is mainly because of the shorter days and the fact that the weather was quiet sunny and warm so I felt pressed to get on with it.

4 panels painted and each panel required 3 undercoats 3 base coats and 3 laquer coats with drying times between coats times 4, I was painting the final coat as it started getting dark and only just got it done before the bad weather comes again

So I am now able to reveal the final colour of the bike,Sorry to all those who chose Yellow and others who chose pink but I decided to be predictable and maby boring and went for Metalic black (better the devil you know ) and silver trim.

I like black bikes and since my last three were black,why change now

(if you look closely you can see tiny blue metalic specs but these do not show in cloudy weather)

[Namso]

Amazing results, can hardly believe you sprayed them yourself in your shed lol

[polecat]

Amazing results, can hardly believe you sprayed them yourself in your shed lol

Thanks

The key is planning,weather and patience.... the paint does the rest

The fairing will be interesting to paint as it has So many facets,what I do is imagine spraying the object before applying any paint so when you start you know where you will start your pattern and where you will end without getting in a muddle.

[jacol]

Amazing results, can hardly believe you sprayed them yourself in your shed lol

 

You didn't see his other restoration thread, did you?

Well done polecat, looks great, and you've chosen the right colour as well

[polecat]

UPDATE RE Cat c :

It appears I got a fact wrong when I posted about cat c ,infact there is no fee for getting your registration document V5c when you buy an economic write off.

Imagine my suprise when DVLA sent my cheque back

In my defence ....... the application was ambiguous so I rang up and asked and the person I spoke to said I needed to send a cheque for £25

[Throttled]

UPDATE RE Cat c :

It appears I got a fact wrong when I posted about cat c ,infact there is no fee for getting your registration document V5c when you buy an economic write off.

Imagine my suprise when DVLA sent my cheque back

In my defence ....... the application was ambiguous so I rang up and asked and the person I spoke to said I needed to send a cheque for £25

 

The DVLA returns cheque to motorist

Spend it on some chrome

[polecat]

UPDATE RE Cat c :

It appears I got a fact wrong when I posted about cat c ,infact there is no fee for getting your registration document V5c when you buy an economic write off.

Imagine my suprise when DVLA sent my cheque back

In my defence ....... the application was ambiguous so I rang up and asked and the person I spoke to said I needed to send a cheque for £25

 

The DVLA returns cheque to motorist

Spend it on some chrome

I know I was so suprised,it took a while to sink in

In fairness to them they also sent no longer the keeper of my old bike and a sorn decleraion receipt for my new one,so A+@ DVLA

[polecat]

Update for today :

not a great deal done since Yesterday as I was feeling a little weary but I changed the Brake lever which was a really simple job of undoing a nut and slipping on the new one,do up nut,job done

I then decided to re-coat the cylinder head and exhausts where the paint was chipped which was really easy with the paint I got on ebay called "Granville Cylinder black" It is quiet thin but covers in one go with a small paint brush (as in artist brush)

Once done the cylinder looks "Showroom condition" so £6 well spent and the small tin will last years I reckon !

The panels are Drying nicely and next week I will put the decals on them and re coat in more laquer.

Still waiting for my fairing to arrive but the weather is going to get bad again anyway so no chance of any spraying

[jacol]

Do you paint using spray cans or air compressor?

Also I have a givi arms for a top box (without mounting plate), a double bubble screen, and a flip screen if you are interested.

[polecat]

Do you paint using spray cans or air compressor?

Also I have a givi arms for a top box (without mounting plate), a double bubble screen, and a flip screen if you are interested.

Hi

I am using spray cans as they are plenty adequate for a bike

what is a flip screen ?

[jacol]

http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/product_images/skidmarx_screens_flip.jpg

It's taller and it sort of bends at the edge

[polecat]

The worlds biggest parcel arrives today...... come open it with me

[Fozzie]

Get the new one painted nicely, and then mess with the old one... See if you can get some Osram night racer bulbs in there and maybe some angel eyes

I currently have an ER650F project on the go, Kawasaki ZXR250 1989 and a 2007 Suzuki bandit as well. But seeing as they are being built to the owners standards I cant mess

[keith565]

wow, loving this thread.

[polecat]

The weather caught me out today .....

Had I known it was going to be a lovely sunny day I would have got up earlier and had a spray day because I know these conditions are going to become more rare as we hurtle towards christmas (spits)

So by the time I got myself together I managed to do some plastic welding on the small crack on the bottom of the fairing (not mentioned in the advert on ebay )

Sanded it down with 400 grit and gave it two final coats of undercoat,which I will leave over night to dry before getting ready for the Base coat in the morning (weather permitting)

[polecat]

With the rest of the day I started wet sanding the panels I lacqured last week.

This is the part of the process most people do not understand so I will explain in more detail.

You have put on your base coat and built up a lovely shiney gloss finish with your lacquer and now you are ready to add decals.

You can not apply the decals to the base coat because it has to be slightly tacky when you apply your first lacquer to bond it (usually 30 minutes after base coat)

So you let the shiney gloss finish dry completly then sand it down with wet 1500 grit

Apply the decals to the now matt finish and then give the whole thing 3 New coats of lacquer (clear coat )

Wait two more weeks and then what you should do is ...yeah you guessed,sand down your shiney clear coat with 2000 grit wet and dry to make the surface matt again ! (Or you can use a fine rubbing compound)

The reason for the final sanding is So you can KEY your wax into the clear coat (lacquer)

I will be using SIMONIZ Original Carnauba Car Wax Paste (as long as it is carnauba based any brand is ok)

If you don't key in the wax it will just shift around the clear coat and never really bed in and you won't get a real "hot rod" shine ( you end up with a hazy dull lacquer insead, over time )

So here is the end panel being wet sanded and ready for final lacquer (decal positioned using vernier caliper )

[polecat]

Made a start on the fuel tank dent today.....

First using a panel beaters hammer I beat the high spots caused by the dent (what goes in must come out)

I decided as I do not have a tank tool for dents I would fill it using Extra fine body filler.

Sanded down the area with 340 grit to remove the paint and decals and get a nice surface to key in the filler.

Then mixed the filler and applied to the area following the contours of the tank.

I have applied a lot more filler than is needed but this is to avoid low spots later on when modeling it to the tank.

This filler will be left 3 days to dry before sanding

[polecat]

Fairing paint.....Part deux

Once the undercoats had gone off I took advantage of the massive 12c degree heatwave here and decided to spray the fairing :

First I rub the inside and out with a scotchpad then go over it with a tack cloth to remove any dust.

I sprayed the inside first with Satin black acrylic (no Lacquer coat ) left it 30 minutes then gave it a thicker coat and left to dry

My rule on coverage is each coat gives you about 80% coverage and you generally need 3 coats so I spray a light coat first to create an adhesive base and the cvovereage is about 60% then 3 more coats at 80% = 300% (its ok i'm seeing a doctor about it)

what you miss on the first coat you catch on the second because you turn the item 180 degrees ect

Once the Satin had dried I then did the same on the outside but using base coat instead,after three coats left to dry and got on with rubbing down the mudguard and tail unit ready for final lacquer.

I ran two coats of lacquer over the outer fairing and once dry put it in the house to cure,once it is fully cured next week I will sand it down and apply the decals

[polecat]

Final painting complete and ready to go on the bike (in a week or so )

Very pleased to have something finished because I don't have to worry about these items anymore.

I sanded down the lacquer with 1200 grit (do it lightly or you may hit base coat !! )

cleaned and degreased then left to Dry I gave the panels two extra final coats of lacquer then got them in the house as soon as I could as it was starting to get cold again

I am pleased with the results and the shine is pretty impressive although the photos do not Reflect this ( see what I did there )

[craig]

looking good m8 cant wait to see the panels back on the bike

[polecat]

looking good m8 cant wait to see the panels back on the bike

Cheers Craig

It will certainly look very diferent from when I bought it !

Unfortunatly the weather is against me now and im on a shift pattern I cant work on it until friday so tumbleweed time .......

[Stu]

i cant wait to see the finished bike

do you fancy doing a guide in the "Guides, Manuals, & Riding Advice" section on how to spray panels as it gets asked a bit and by the looks of things you know what your on about