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Storing a bike


mealexme
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for anything up to 5 months

What needs doing? I have heard you should turn the petcock to a certain point when storing

Remove the battery


It will be started up about once a week to try and stop any crap building up, do I just let it idle or should it be revved? (I wont be revving the nuts off it obviously). Sadly its likely to stay in neutral apart from once over the next (up to) 5 months due to moving house


Should anything else be taken off/done to it? should it be sprayed in anything? (I know it should, but I cant remember the name of it, the stuff that stops rusting)


Thanks,

Alex

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Firstly if you keep it outdoors a Bandit will naturally become one with its surroundings...


5 months will see it become a pile of rust, and though thats a exageration it will likely rust like hell.


You need to store it in a garage and keep it dry, protect it with ACF-50, easy enough to buy from ebay. Then go and hook it up to an optimate to keep the battery charged but I have known an optimate to eventually dry out a battery so dont leave it on permanently.


After a month or two the bike will need to be started ideally. I've been told in this instance to switch it on and let it heat up to the point the radiator has to come on. It means the bike goes through a full heat cycle and burns off any condensation. You want to do this as little as possible but it does help keep the motor healthier than it would be just leaving it for 5 months.

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Firstly if you keep it outdoors a Bandit will naturally become one with its surroundings...


5 months will see it become a pile of rust, and though thats a exageration it will likely rust like hell.


You need to store it in a garage and keep it dry, protect it with ACF-50, easy enough to buy from ebay. Then go and hook it up to an optimate to keep the battery charged but I have known an optimate to eventually dry out a battery so dont leave it on permanently.


After a month or two the bike will need to be started ideally. I've been told in this instance to switch it on and let it heat up to the point the radiator has to come on. It means the bike goes through a full heat cycle and burns off any condensation. You want to do this as little as possible but it does help keep the motor healthier than it would be just leaving it for 5 months.

ACF-50, thats the stuff! So Only turn it on every couple of months rather than every week?

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You need to store it in a garage and keep it dry, protect it with ACF-50, easy enough to buy from ebay. Then go and hook it up to an optimate to keep the battery charged but I have known an optimate to eventually dry out a battery so dont leave it on permanently.

 

Great advice :cheers: Especially about the optimate. DONT laeve it on constantly it will knacker the battery (I did 2 and couldnt understand why)

I think everyone should treat the bike to ACF50 for the winter.

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http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41PUqbgCnmL.jpg

This stuff?

Will one can do the whole bike? And where should it be sprayed? All bits of metal I presume, but plastic too? And should it be put on places that get hot, such as the exhaust?

Sorry for the questions, I just want to get it right lol

P.s I know plastics dont rust, but will it help pretect them?

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Just spray the metal parts including the exhaust. Plastic does not corrode!


You can also get petrol preserver to put in the tank to stop the petrol going stale.


I would make sure the wheels are turned every week to stop flat spots.

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Just spray the metal parts including the exhaust. Plastic does not corrode!


You can also get petrol preserver to put in the tank to stop the petrol going stale.


I would make sure the wheels are turned every week to stop flat spots.

i know plastic doesnt corrode :P but the paint /plastic may still weather if direct sunlight gets to it (there is a window in our garrage) or if it gets too cold etc

And turning the wheels is a good idea, I think I will probably wheel it back and forth a few times and apply the brakes to make sure nothing siezes up lol

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Protect it as already said


Turn petrol tap off run bike till carb is dry and don't start it till next year


You get condensation by starting it up

wont that hurt the engine? And how would you start it again with no petrol in the carbs? just turn the petrol tap back on and try to start it up?

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agree with stu about turning tap off and then run it untill it cuts out and leave it like that as then the petrol cant go off and block the carbs up and when the time comes to start it up again just turn the fuel tap back on and it will start after a few turns

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Just spray the metal parts including the exhaust. Plastic does not corrode!


You can also get petrol preserver to put in the tank to stop the petrol going stale.


I would make sure the wheels are turned every week to stop flat spots.

i know plastic doesnt corrode :P but the paint /plastic may still weather if direct sunlight gets to it (there is a window in our garrage) or if it gets too cold etc

And turning the wheels is a good idea, I think I will probably wheel it back and forth a few times and apply the brakes to make sure nothing siezes up lol

 

I would use a dust cover then.

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I generally spray some ACF50 onto a rag and wipe it over the exhaust and downpipes and any other metalwork I can see. Don't forget under the seat too. It's also good on electrical connections to stop moisture corroding those too.

If the engine is not going to be started regularly it's a good idea to remove the plugs and drop a little bit of engine oil down the plug holes and turn the engine by hand to spread it up the top of the bores to stop any rust forming in there. You could also push the brake calliper pistons back in....just to stop any corrosion on them causing the brakes to bind when you come to use the bike......new disks are pretty expensive if the old ones warp due to brakes binding.


I think Colin's idea is the best though....will save all this faffing around.... :wink:

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I generally spray some ACF50 onto a rag and wipe it over the exhaust and downpipes and any other metalwork I can see. Don't forget under the seat too. It's also good on electrical connections to stop moisture corroding those too.

If the engine is not going to be started regularly it's a good idea to remove the plugs and drop a little bit of engine oil down the plug holes and turn the engine by hand to spread it up the top of the bores to stop any rust forming in there. You could also push the brake calliper pistons back in....just to stop any corrosion on them causing the brakes to bind when you come to use the bike......new disks are pretty expensive if the old ones warp due to brakes binding.


I think Colin's idea is the best though....will save all this faffing around.... :wink:

the bandit has 3 compared to the one that the YBR has! O.O so yea, I will be doing that lol

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By far the best thing to do is avoid all that faffing around, insure it, and ride it through the winter! :lol:

suzuki + salt on roads is a good idea? lol

 

Why not? Plenty do. :roll:

I hear they are prone to rust?

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Why not? Plenty do. :roll:

I hear they are prone to rust?

 

Noooo, surely not? Isn't it just Chinese bikes that rust? :lol:


Seriously though, given the choice between hanging up my bike keys for 5 months or dealing with a little rust... there's no contest. And anyway, wouldn't want to miss my Xmas day rideout to McD :lol:

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