Bike won't start

[Zod]

Right after having got the new ign switch and fitted it, over the weekend right up until today I have tried to start the bike. Now I took the battery off to recharge it, put it back on and called no joy when I turned the ignition on so then I try to bump start it with the car. All lights and what not come on, but it still wouldn't start, checking the fuel gauge there is half a tank full in there so I put more petrol in to fill it up and then prime it. Even after priming it, it still wouldn't start so I try it with the kick starter and still no joy. Start to check the wiring again and the only thing wrong I can see is the cut wire next to the side stand...

Even though the battery is dead and even after trying to both jump and bump start it I cannot think of anything else that wouldn't get it to start other than the fuel pump...

The engine management light kept flashing as I was trying to start it with the jump start method, I don't know what that could mean but I am guessing it's something to do with the engine right?

It just simply wasn't starting.

Was hoping that someone with more experience would know a thing or two of what the problem or fault could be?

[eastanglianbiker]

if it has got broken wire leading away fromthe side stand then it wont start unless you have the clutch pulled in,have you checked main fuse if there is more than one?

[Fozzie]

Check your kill switch? Some bikes turn over but have no spark in this situation.

[mealexme]

if it has got broken wire leading away fromthe side stand then it wont start unless you have the clutch pulled in,have you checked main fuse if there is more than one?

If I remember correctly, the YBR doesn't need the clutch pulling in.

I'm not sure if the side stand switch brakes or makes the circuit when activated, so is it possible the bike thinks the side stand is down when the wire is cut?

Is it turning over?

[Zod]

After posting my previous post I went back outside to check the thing over again starting from ignition to the circuits, I have found a fault with the spark plug. Firstly the bike is ticking over but there is no spark coming from the spark plug, so I'm thinking it's to do with the solonoid or that lead connecting the spark plug to the solonoid, but then I thought battery but no battery is dead.

In the end I went to JT's to have a chat with the mechanic up there and to also price a new battery and solonoid, sadly enough they didn't have a battery in stock but the mechanic said that there is no spark because of the emergency cut off switch AKA the neutral switch or the switch at the side stand.

After that I went to M&P and got a new battery and manual book for the bike. Before I do put the new battery in I sorted out the wires at the side stand, swapped them over and done the old place a screw driver accross the connectors trick at the fuses and got no spark. So, I'm currently charging the new battery now and looking in the book to see if there are anything about it there, will have another look tomorrow.

[Zod]

I've put the new battery in and turn on the ignition, lights and everything come on fine. Engine management/warning light comes on then goes off as it usually does but then when I try to start it, the thing still wouldn't start and the engine management/warning light flashes several times while I've got the start button pushed in.

I have been done to M&P's again to get some advice and not only could there be a number of problems, most of which I have ruled out already but now apparently the CDI could be f**ked. Is there a way of testing the CDI without sending it off to somewhere or to someone that can test it?

[eastanglianbiker]

is the key chipped and meant to be programmed to the ecu?

[Zod]

I'm not sure tbh, my father and I were looking in the manual book in regards to the ECU and he seems to think it could have something to do with that. But, how would I know if the key is chipped or not?

Edit -

The new key & spare key I have now are not chipped, but the old key is I think (Still have no way of telling) So, how would I be able to get it chipped and programmed?

[eastanglianbiker]

for the moment tape the old key to the side of the new barrel and see what happens then

[mattycoops43]

After posting my previous post I went back outside to check the thing over again starting from ignition to the circuits, I have found a fault with the spark plug. Firstly the bike is ticking over but there is no spark coming from the spark plug, so I'm thinking it's to do with the solonoid or that lead connecting the spark plug to the solonoid, but then I thought battery but no battery is dead.

In the end I went to JT's to have a chat with the mechanic up there and to also price a new battery and solonoid, sadly enough they didn't have a battery in stock but the mechanic said that there is no spark because of the emergency cut off switch AKA the neutral switch or the switch at the side stand.

After that I went to M&P and got a new battery and manual book for the bike. Before I do put the new battery in I sorted out the wires at the side stand, swapped them over and done the old place a screw driver accross the connectors trick at the fuses and got no spark. So, I'm currently charging the new battery now and looking in the book to see if there are anything about it there, will have another look tomorrow.

 

Zod, I am really sorry, but I couldn't even get through this, can we please have it again, logically and in order and in English?

A bike will not tick over with no spark plug!

[Zod]

Matt, it has a spark plug. But the thing doesn't spark ^^ that is what I was trying to say, I put the new plug in and the bike was ticking over but there wasn't a spark coming from the plug at all. I put a bit of petrol into the hole to see if there was a spark that way but still no spark, and there doesn't seem to be any fuel getting to the spark plug either which makes me think there is something either wrong with the fuel line or with the sensor.

But okay, I shall list what I had done in order to make it more understandable.

1) Checked the battery once more - Dead

2) Checked the wiring for any cut, loose or disconnected wires - Only one wire was cut which was the kill switch at the side stand

3) I scratched my head and after that tried starting the bike again - No start > Glanced once more at the engine warning light as it was flashing while I had my thumb on the start button > Took thumb off and the warning light continued to flash.

4) Checked spark plug > No spark > Could be a dud plug

5) Put a bit of petrol into the plug hole > Still no spark

6) Decided to leave the bike and go to JT's for a new battery and solonoid > They had none.

7) Went to M&P's > Got some advice, got a new battery, also got a manual.

Now, this is what I had done today...

1) Put new battery in > Turned ignition on > Instrument lights came on, lights came on - Good

2) Tried starting the bike > Still no start.

3) Tried swapping over the kill switch wires > Again

4) Tried starting it once more > Still no start

5) Scratched my head...Wtf?

6) Had a good look in the manual

7) Decided to go to M&P's for some new parts but instead got told to check the CDI

How the hell can I check the CDI? I even checked the manual and that has nothing on the CDI.

For there to be no spark from the plug it has to be something to do with either the fuel line/compression, solenoid or the lead from the plug to the solonoid.

Edited February 28, 2013 by Zod

[fredc]

I think zod means turning over not ticking over

[mattycoops43]

ok.

Don't put petrol in the hole to see if there's a spark. That way lies a serious lack of eyebrows.

[Zod]

ok.

Don't put petrol in the hole to see if there's a spark. That way lies a serious lack of eyebrows.

 

It was a bad idea though, having just tried with a plug from my brothers bike it's the same problem with that. No spark, so, I've ruled out fuel line/compression as the fuel pump works fine so it seems that the problem could be either with the coil or the solenoid.

[Tango]

Dunno if this will help Zod....but it's a kinda simplified wiring diagram....can't see a kickstand switch on there though......but it may help a bit anyway......

http://i675.photobucket.com/albums/vv11 ... ybr125.jpg

[Zod]

I have found the problem and it is the ECU, tried starting it earlier, no start checked the warning light, flashed 19, looked in the manual for fault code 19. Got the multimeter out and checked both the black and white lead off the ign switch, and the black and white lead with connector (Not connected to ign switch) with the multimeter, god a reading with the ign switch but not with the connector.

So, ECU is faulty. Need a new one...Time to load up Ebay.

[Tango]

Do you mean CDI.....didn't think YBR's had an ECU?

[eastanglianbiker]

its ecu bob its got fuel injection electronic gizmos and daft fault programs that stop you starting the bike

[Tango]

Ahhhh....cheers Steve......damn things are too complicated for their own good these days......

[Zod]

Yep, EAB is right. But I was just thinking now. If the ECU was faulty then no fault code would be displayed via the warning light so therefore the fault has to be with the black and white wire, the wire could be blown somewhere between the ign switch and the ECU so even though I have bought a new ECU now tomorrow I'm going to bear the wire at the ECU end and stick a clamp or clip on it and do the same on the ign side and see what happens then.

[eastanglianbiker]

it could well still show up a fault as it might not be the black and white feed wire thats at fault when you get the new ecu have you been told you can just plug it in and it will be ok and fine?

[Zod]

I haven't and my father has come up with a good idea. He is to make a multi block tester which will test everything in one go, apparently though there is no way of testing the ECU. Bullshit I say, anything electrical can be tested unless there is either a break in the wire or a fault in the ECU's board.

[Zod]

Yesterday my father and I were trying to narrow it down a bit further by testing the fuse box, battery and other wires and connections first with the block tester. Now this block tester we had was nothing more than a light builb attacthed to some wires and strapped onto a door wedge, so whenever we connected the wires up to anything we had light and when it didn't work then we had no light at all.

We both concluded that there is some bad earthing.

We then tested everything over once more with the multi meter from battery to ECU. This time we had got a reading from the black and white wire coming off the ign switch and to the ECU, now this baffeled us because we hadn't got that reading before when we tried it. So we now know it isn't coming from the ign switch (but may be faulty either way) and we also tested the relay, the black and white wire going into the rely as well as the blue wire were faulty as there wasn't any reading.

I tried starting the bike...The bike actually tried to start! Progress? No, it jumped forward a touch and decided to be a pain in the ass and not do it again. It had done this Saturday morning too, I'm not sure what gear the bike was in though as for some reason it isn't shifting back into neutral when I'm shifting the gears.

The new ECU will be arriving tomorrow, if it still doesn't work then I'm off up to Cardiff to some scrap site to speak to a man about either buying a fully working YBR for £600 or to buy the other one which he's stripping down for parts, for £50.

[oslin06]

Zod first check there is a low tension supply (12v) to the coil with the ignition switched on (use a meter) if there is check the resistance of the coil (in the book) if that is ok, next check the electronic ignition diods under the crank case cover on the end of the crank and also for any broken wires (again use a meter to test the wires are not broken somewhere on the frame), and make sure the gap is correct between the diod and the rotating trigger (looks a bit like a star), assuming you have electronic ignition, you must get the spark working before you can check anything else.

Keith

Oh p.s. I had a friends bike around the other day (600 bandit) with an electrical problem, It would not start, so I disconnected all the multi plugs and cleaned them with electrical cleaner (spray type, screw fix ) you will find plugs behind the head light and all over the frame etc do them all. it ran after that.

Keith

[Zod]

Yes had checked all of them already and still wouldn't start. Had cleaned all connections and re-connected them and yet still no start, had figured out the other day why the thieves had removed the spark plug and it's because they were trying to set the valve timing and had stuck a screw driver down into the plug hole, so I've not yet attempted to fix the vale timing's so will wait now until the weekend and do them along with the ignition timings.