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Posted

Hi Guys,


Just out of curiosity. A standard 125 chain should average how many miles?


I have a YBR 125 2012, However, I have found that I'm having to tighten my chain very frequently maybe every 200-400 miles, I generally tighten to about 25mm slack, wheel properly aligned, and chain lubed every few hundred miles. I got a new chain fitted about 1000 miles ago, and I'm already over halfway on the adjustment indicator. In my opinion, this chain will be at it's stretch limit in another 1000 miles.


It costs me £40 to replace with a quality chain each time at my local motorcycle mechanics.


Now I must say, I am not light on the throttle and don't treat my chain as if it were delicate when changing gears or taking off. I usually take advantage of most of the range of the engine throughout gears, but never redline. But surely a chain is designed to put up with higher amounts of torque than i can even scrape with my 125. I have 7.4Lbft/10.4Nm of torque at 6000rpm, I'm sure this is nothing? My sprockets are fine... no wear at all.


Why am i finding that my chain is stretching so much so quickly. I'd expect more than 2-3k miles from a chain on a 125!


Thanks Guys.

Posted

Try more chain slack, up to 50mm. Check slack whilst sat on bike as well. Make sure sprockets in good nick. Buy DID chain if possible. Should get 10,000 miles at least. I got 25,000 out of Fireblade chain.

Posted
Try more chain slack, up to 50mm. Check slack whilst sat on bike as well. Make sure sprockets in good nick. Buy DID chain if possible. Should get 10,000 miles at least. I got 25,000 out of Fireblade chain.

 

recommended slack in manual says 20mm. so i do 25mm at tightest spot. you're saying I should do up to 50mm? In my experience, that amount of slack causes the chain to start slapping the frame of my swingarm every time i change gear? I've also experimented with 30-35mm slack and chain still seems to stretch to the point of slapping the frame on shifts.

Posted

Did you buy the cerrect length chain? You can always remove a link this will make a big difference in the chain length. Also as mega said check the chain tension when you're sat on the bike as your weight will move the rear end backwards slightly making the chain tighter, if you can't reach get someone to help.


Also it does depend on the chain, you say it's £40 is that fitted or just for the chain? I recently bought a chain and sprocket kit for my bike for just over £40 an that was a D.I.D chain. If you are getting them to fit it stop! It's such an easy job takes 10 minutes to change a chain..

Posted

Check it for wear by trying to pull it off the rear sprocket at the rear most point halfway between top and bottom. A good chain is a snug fit and hardly moves. If you can pull it away from the teeth significantly then its stretched and time for a new one. Properly adjusted and lubed it should last 15k but too tight or not lubed will kill it. Chains suddenly go elastic once they're worn, so keep it adjsted to 25mm slack and see how it goes. If it doesn't settle then time for new chain and sprockets.

Posted

Cheap chains and sprockets are a false economy......get decent ones and they should last as others have suggested...... 8-)

Posted

Check your manual again - make sure it's not 25mm up and down from the natural chain position...

Posted

Have you ever seen one say that, because that would be plain daft! Slack means up and down without much force ie one finger.

Posted
Slack means up and down without much force ie one finger.

Does it really? Thanks for that Tim, I've really been struggling with basic English the past 30 odd years.

Posted

You know you've lost an argument when you have to resort to sarcasm - its the lowest form of wit. You'll be calling people Hitler next !

Posted

What is this? Another Belladonna? :-)


Tim, my issue is that you corrected me without fully reading my comment. Look again and you will see that I mentioned a measurement from a neutral position yet you started on about the definition of slack.

Posted

I was simply questioning your assertion that a manual might specify the distance from mid-point which is something I've never seen in 40yrs. YMMV

Posted

The OP is setting it to 25mm slack which is entirely reasonable on his road bike. To introduce an element of doubt and assert that it might be 50mm required is dangerous - a slack chain jumping off and locking the rear is a guaranteed accident. IMHO of course.

Posted
Calm down ladies this isn't going to help the OP!

Fair one, I'll put my handbag away. :-)


Going back to what megawatt said - how does the manual say to have the bike when you're measuring the slack? Side or centre stand?

Posted
Did you buy the correct length chain? You can always remove a link this will make a big difference in the chain length. Also as mega said check the chain tension when you're sat on the bike as your weight will move the rear end backwards slightly making the chain tighter, if you can't reach get someone to help.


Also it does depend on the chain, you say it's £40 is that fitted or just for the chain? I recently bought a chain and sprocket kit for my bike for just over £40 and that was a D.I.D chain. If you are getting them to fit it stop! It's such an easy job takes 10 minutes to change a chain..

 

It was a chain that they supplied and fitted themselves as I have not become confident with changing the chain myself. mainly due to lack of correct tools for the job. I still need to build up on my knowledge. perhaps you could suggest proper tools I should buy?


I have tools to remove the wheel, but not for messing with chain links. I wouldn't want to do something wrong and mess up links on a new chain and put myself at risk.


I will try the adjustment again with my added weight, but I must say I only weigh about 58KG's with my gear on.

Posted

The manual will say whether the slack is with the bike loaded or on side stand. Usually the specify on the side stand as it would be too awkward otherwise. And that would be for a normal weight person.

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