Sump bolt thread problem?

[Harri]

I wonder if this will be okay? My sump/bolt is M14 1.25 and this would take things one size up to M15.

http://www.motorsport-tools.com/sealey- ... vs615.html

Barcud

[Stu]

that would more than likely work

[Harri]

Cheers Stu. This place is quite close to where I live. There are also kits with a mix of different sizes. I'd just want something that is quality and not cheap which would hopefully give me a better chance of getting things right. Surely it would be better/safer than the current plug replaced with ptfe again

Barcud

[Stu]

anything will be better than PTFE

hope all goes well for you

[megawatt]

Like I said Barcud, with the valve installations, you don't need to drill and tap a new thread, you just need to araldite or plastic metal the valve into the hole. As long as there's something to grip onto , the valve will seal!!!

[Harri]

Hi Mega, I almost forgot about that option as I've also been dealing with the sensor problem, and the snapped bolt problem. With the valve option I would be relying on the araldite to give me a seal which I thought might be a weakness waiting to be exploited. Though working as a valve if it did seal then it would never have to be removed again. It would be a brilliant choice as a replacement for a sound plug and hole. I guess the araldite part of it is making me a touch nervous

Something has also just sprang to my mind! The snapped bolt has been re-threaded before, so perhaps the sump hole and bolt should be checked in case it too has been re-threaded in the past?

Barcud

[megawatt]

Your choice mate, but I've never had a problem with either method. I think you're wasting your time and money by rethreading it and could cause more problems than you solve.

[RantMachine]

Hey Barcud, will the valve actually fit between your sump and your sump guard? A quick Google search hasn't found any pics of the belly of a Freewind so I dunno where everything is positioned. I'm sure you're probably safe but better to ask now than find out later

[Harri]

Hey Rant, the thought entered my head as soon as I posted the reply to Mega. It's the 37mm I need to check as that is the widest point. And I think that part of the valve would also be level with the plate. A modification to the sump plate guard wouldn't be too difficult I guess.

http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/F-111_dimensions.pdf

(Just watching stage 5 Dakar.)

Barcud

Edited January 8, 2015 by Harri

[RantMachine]

No spoilers, I'm recording it! My housemates are hogging the TV to watch a documentary about high-class sex parties

If you're thinking of chopping a bit out of the sump guard to make room for the valve, you'd want to be bloody careful if you ever took it off road - imagine having your sump bolt catch on a rock or root If your sump guard mounts similarly to mine then you could probably get away with grabbing some longer bolts and sticking some spacers between the frame and the guard, as a suggestion.

[Harri]

Hi guys, take a look at the pic and let me know what you think please.

[megawatt]

Just buy a valve, degrease the threads and screw the fookin thing in with a load of silicone on it. If it won't tighten up use some filler on it. I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill mate, JFDI FFS.

[Mr Fro]

I've seen worse!

Wot mega said.

[Tango]

C'mon guys......I can understand barcud's concern here......last thing you need is the bike dumping it's oil all over the rear tyre and then seizing...... Not saying your solution wouldn't work Alan......but I wouldn't be comfortable with that. The one time that I did strip the drain plug thread I was lucky in that a replacement sump pan was easily available (before the days of internet!!).

Personally I'd go with the one size up option......plenty of grease on the tap to hold the swarf.......and a copper washer on the new drain plug.......but that's just me....... Helicoil would be my next preferred option.

[Stu]

And less of the attitude too please guys