Skimblet Posted February 3, 2017 Posted February 3, 2017 Hi Everyone me again with more YBR issues,I am having issues starting, sometimes! I am getting an Error code of 19 which is as follows Fault code 19 - No signal from ignition to ecuMy understanding is, is that this has nothing to do with the ignition as such but requires me to check some wires.Recently (after the issue started, which was after I dropped it gently) I have changed the spark plug and air filter (as well as chain sprockets and brake shoes) there is oil in the engine and fuel in the tank.sometimes it has an issue starting and sometimes it will cut out while riding and then start itself up and carry onAny help or pointing me in the right direction is much appreciated Quote
Stu Posted February 3, 2017 Posted February 3, 2017 Sounds like you have a loose or bad connection somewhere Quote
Skimblet Posted February 3, 2017 Author Posted February 3, 2017 Another Saturday sorted for me then, will I need to take the tank off to get to them? Quote
Westbeef Posted February 3, 2017 Posted February 3, 2017 Maybe check the ignition barrel to start? Trying fiddling with the key to see if it fires up - if you can get it working doing this you know the issue is there at least! Quote
TimR Posted February 3, 2017 Posted February 3, 2017 Check battery connections Which side did it drop on ...if it was the right hand side (if sitting on it ) could be the kill switch .Or if handlebars were turned harshly when it went over could be the wiring harness got pulled and has caused a dodgy connection at the multi plugs Whilst its running (stationary) try jiggling wires around the bars like the igntion switch wires etc Check and clean all fuse terminalsCheck the battery has enough acid in it (if its a wet battery) especially seen its been over Quote
Skimblet Posted February 3, 2017 Author Posted February 3, 2017 Sometimes it will start and then just cut out straight away, this morning it did that 5 or 6 times then started and I managed to ride to work, although it did cut out and then start again on the way, would the ignition barrel cause something like this? Quote
Skimblet Posted February 3, 2017 Author Posted February 3, 2017 Check battery connections Which side did it drop on ...if it was the right hand side (if sitting on it ) could be the kill switch .Or if handlebars were turned harshly when it went over could be the wiring harness got pulled and has caused a dodgy connection at the multi plugs Whilst its running (stationary) try jiggling wires around the bars like the igntion switch wires etc Check and clean all fuse terminalsCheck the battery has enough acid in it (if its a wet battery) especially seen its been over Yes was right hand side, was very gentle drop, I still had hold of it!I don't think it has a kill switch I did check battery connections but will do this again just to make sure, as for all the other connections I shall work through them, I have the Haynes manual so hopefully this will help me with thatGenerally if I play with the plug cap it helps, so was going to replace that as well just in case Quote
Westbeef Posted February 3, 2017 Posted February 3, 2017 Sometimes it will start and then just cut out straight away, this morning it did that 5 or 6 times then started and I managed to ride to work, although it did cut out and then start again on the way, would the ignition barrel cause something like this? I'm not sure, maybe - the vibrations can move the keys. If you've got it stationary but engine running, try wiggling the key to see if it cuts out. Quote
Skimblet Posted February 3, 2017 Author Posted February 3, 2017 Sometimes it will start and then just cut out straight away, this morning it did that 5 or 6 times then started and I managed to ride to work, although it did cut out and then start again on the way, would the ignition barrel cause something like this? I'm not sure, maybe - the vibrations can move the keys. If you've got it stationary but engine running, try wiggling the key to see if it cuts out. Thanks will give that a try Quote
TimR Posted February 3, 2017 Posted February 3, 2017 Check battery connections Which side did it drop on ...if it was the right hand side (if sitting on it ) could be the kill switch .Or if handlebars were turned harshly when it went over could be the wiring harness got pulled and has caused a dodgy connection at the multi plugs Whilst its running (stationary) try jiggling wires around the bars like the igntion switch wires etc Check and clean all fuse terminalsCheck the battery has enough acid in it (if its a wet battery) especially seen its been over Yes was right hand side, was very gentle drop, I still had hold of it!I don't think it has a kill switch I did check battery connections but will do this again just to make sure, as for all the other connections I shall work through them, I have the Haynes manual so hopefully this will help me with thatGenerally if I play with the plug cap it helps, so was going to replace that as well just in case Careful playing with plug caps ... the shock from rhe 15,000 to 48,000 volts on most ignition ststems even though rarely fatal can lead to further injury ( recoiling in shock and tripping ) .i never trust the insulation . Quote
Skimblet Posted February 13, 2017 Author Posted February 13, 2017 Gradually trying to whittle down what could be wrong with it.Have checked cabling and from what I can see it all looks okNext step is to replace the ignition barrel in case it is the contacts in that, that is the issue, is this a big job or should it be pretty straightforward? is there anything in particular I should look out for?TIA Quote
Bianco2564 Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 My daughter had a YBR with similar fault,sometimes wouldnt start.Dealer diagnosed ignition switch when we took it in for part ex. Quote
Skimblet Posted February 13, 2017 Author Posted February 13, 2017 My daughter had a YBR with similar fault,sometimes wouldnt start.Dealer diagnosed ignition switch when we took it in for part ex. this is where I get confused, by switch do you mean the button on the bars, or do you mean a switch within the barrel? Quote
Bianco2564 Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 My daughter had a YBR with similar fault,sometimes wouldnt start.Dealer diagnosed ignition switch when we took it in for part ex. this is where I get confused, by switch do you mean the button on the bars, or do you mean a switch within the barrel?The barrel where the key goes.Never saw if it fixed it but the diagnosis made sense Quote
Skimblet Posted February 14, 2017 Author Posted February 14, 2017 I have a new barrel on the way so hoping this fixes it and that its not a complete ballache to do Quote
ThePhatomfart Posted February 14, 2017 Posted February 14, 2017 Hi, have you checked the ignition barrel/switch for continuity, that test will be in your manual, its a case of following the wires down to the connector and unplugging and testing the pairs up to the barrel for continuity(take off the positive lead from the battery), because if it is the barrel that your changing they could have shear head bolts in, you would have to take the top yoke off to get at them and try to turn them with a center punch. Have a look on the net for "Shear Head Bolts" Quote
Skimblet Posted February 14, 2017 Author Posted February 14, 2017 Hi, have you checked the ignition barrel/switch for continuity, that test will be in your manual, its a case of following the wires down to the connector and unplugging and testing the pairs up to the barrel for continuity(take off the positive lead from the battery), because if it is the barrel that your changing they could have shear head bolts in, you would have to take the top yoke off to get at them and try to turn them with a center punch. Have a look on the net for "Shear Head Bolts" I watched a video of someone doing it on an R6 which gave me a bit of an idea, I have a dremel which I can take to them if necessaryWill check the continuity properly before I do it, I thought I had but I think I did it wrong (again I watched a video on how to do it after ordering the part ) Quote
ThePhatomfart Posted February 14, 2017 Posted February 14, 2017 Hi, have you checked the ignition barrel/switch for continuity, that test will be in your manual, its a case of following the wires down to the connector and unplugging and testing the pairs up to the barrel for continuity(take off the positive lead from the battery), because if it is the barrel that your changing they could have shear head bolts in, you would have to take the top yoke off to get at them and try to turn them with a center punch. Have a look on the net for "Shear Head Bolts" I watched a video of someone doing it on an R6 which gave me a bit of an idea, I have a dremel which I can take to them if necessaryWill check the continuity properly before I do it, I thought I had but I think I did it wrong (again I watched a video on how to do it after ordering the part )Hi, yes could save you a lot of work if continuity is OK in barrel Quote
Joeman Posted February 14, 2017 Posted February 14, 2017 Squirt a load of wd40 in the keyhole for good measure! Quote
Skimblet Posted February 15, 2017 Author Posted February 15, 2017 Squirt a load of wd40 in the keyhole for good measure! Tried that, didn't seem to make any difference Quote
Skimblet Posted February 16, 2017 Author Posted February 16, 2017 I'm stood looking at my wiring with multimeter in hand, where do i put the bits to check.continuity?(video i watched appears to have been of no help at all) Quote
Skimblet Posted February 16, 2017 Author Posted February 16, 2017 sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire.now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right? Quote
Tango Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire.now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right?If those wires are the ignition wires.....and your meter was switched to Ohms, then that may well be the issue...... Quote
ThePhatomfart Posted February 17, 2017 Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire.now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right?Sorry for the delay in answering, changed my provider from Sky to Plusnet and had to wait for connection,anyway ,yes from the connector back to the ignition barrel check the Black/White and Black for continuity and the Red and Brown for continuity, the key has to be in the "on" position in the barrel for continuity test to work But battery not connected Edited February 17, 2017 by ThePhatomfart Quote
Skimblet Posted February 17, 2017 Author Posted February 17, 2017 sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire.now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right?Sorry for the delay in answering, changed my provider from Sky to Plusnet and had to wait for connection,anyway ,yes from the connector back to the ignition barrel check the Black/White and Black for continuity and the Red and Brown for continuity, the key has to be in the "on" position in the barrel for continuity test to work I only checked the black and black/white wire, key was in the on positionvideo of multimeter (i wiggled the keys around as well)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaMpc7HclHE Quote
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