Picollus Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 If one swaps a battery out for something new with the same voltage output, but a different CCA will the new battery require more robust wiring to handle the increased ampage?Also, as I understand it, a battery requires about 10-15 minutes above 5000 or so revs to fully recharge(edit - from one electric start) If the new battery requires to receive charge at a higher rate than the old battery, is there's a quick and easy way to check the output levels of the existing regulator rectifier to ensure that they are transferring sufficient current?For the avoidance of doubt, this is for a new project that I'm planning, not for my KTM which I would never mess with!Second edit - sorry had typed caa instead of cca lol. Aviation law on the brain it seems. Quote
Stu Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 Wiring will be fine as the bike will only draw the power it needs to start it not the battery pushing the amps through The charging system won't need to be altered either providing it is working right Quote
Picollus Posted May 3, 2017 Author Posted May 3, 2017 Cheers boss. You'll probably hate what I'm planning, but it might prove useful for some and hey, it's only money eh Quote
TimR Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 Check the physical size as well.And 10-15mins at 5000rpm ...noooo All it needs is to be over the idle speed for that period .the alternator will tend not to charge at idle at initial start up and requires a higher rpm for the circuitry to kick in . Even cruising at 70+ in fourth my bike doesnt go over 4k ...so not sitting there for 15mins at 5k to recharge battery All you need to test is a multimeter and the knowledge Quote
JRH Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 Or something like this will check battery voltage and alternator output.http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/battery-and-alternator-checker-fu00a Quote
Picollus Posted May 3, 2017 Author Posted May 3, 2017 Check the physical size as well.And 10-15mins at 5000rpm ...noooo All it needs is to be over the idle speed for that period .the alternator will tend not to charge at idle at initial start up and requires a higher rpm for the circuitry to kick in . Even cruising at 70+ in fourth my bike doesnt go over 4k ...so not sitting there for 15mins at 5k to recharge battery All you need to test is a multimeter and the knowledge Hmm. Talking about a 125 though... you may be right, but I've read a few places where they suggest that this is the case, I.e. Ride for 10-15 minutes at highish revs to recharge fully from a single electric start. Quote
TimR Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 Check the physical size as well.And 10-15mins at 5000rpm ...noooo All it needs is to be over the idle speed for that period .the alternator will tend not to charge at idle at initial start up and requires a higher rpm for the circuitry to kick in . Even cruising at 70+ in fourth my bike doesnt go over 4k ...so not sitting there for 15mins at 5k to recharge battery All you need to test is a multimeter and the knowledge Hmm. Talking about a 125 though... you may be right, but I've read a few places where they suggest that this is the case, I.e. Ride for 10-15 minutes at highish revs to recharge fully from a single electric start. just ride as normal no need to thrash it Quote
Picollus Posted May 3, 2017 Author Posted May 3, 2017 Mate, I did say I wasn't talking about my normal bike, which is modern and does just fine. Was talking about older technology stuff, pretty sure that it I am in fact correct as I've seen it mentioned on so many sites. No one was talking about thrashing anything anyway, just making sure to ride at slightly higher revs if only doing a short run in order to ensure that the battery does recharge fully from generated power. So for a 5 gears bike, riding in third or fourth instead of fifth over a shortish journey. If you think that over 5k revs is thrashing a 125? Hmm... Quote
Tango Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 You'll probably find that the max output from the alternator is anything over 2000rpm. .......2000, 3000, 5000, 10000rpm will not make any difference..... Quote
rennie Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 newer alternators tend to charge at tickover!no real need to rev them at all!A quick prod with a multimeter will soon tell you Quote
Grumpy Old Git Posted May 4, 2017 Posted May 4, 2017 or, just plug in your battery conditioner / trickle charger. Quote
Picollus Posted May 4, 2017 Author Posted May 4, 2017 I don't yet own this bike. I'm just pricing up a project and from what people are saying about it on the interwebz that rev thing is accurate. But I've got all the tools that the world would ever need stuffed into my dads old garage (went to dig out a welding unit for his gardener the other day and found four....!) so I'll steal a multimeter soon as I do pick up this new bike.In other unhappy news, I appear to have allowed myself into being talked into actually working again... so won't have as much time for dossing about and annoying people on motorbike forums, ahem, so it's a mixed result really Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.