Valve Stem Seal Replacement Without Removing Head

[fastbob]

If you absolutely cannot find another head gasket, there is a slim chance that you can reuse the old one or make a new one from annealed copper.

 

I did this job a few month back and reused the gasket with copper coat

Ive spent 4 hours so far stripping the bike back down because the head gasket has started leaking

Get A NEW gasket and save doing the same job twice!

copper coat on a head gasket ? not heard of that .

[SlowBusa]

A lot of Hayabusa engine builders use it on new gaskets with the aim of turbo install but you dont need it on new

This time Im having the block and head skimmed and another new cometic at £80 a gasket

[megawatt]

Yep, used copper spray on copper race gaskets. Also used spray paint on stock gaskets and torqued em up while still sticky.

[fastbob]

Can't you just buy a genuine Triumph Head Gasket? had a look on here but not sure what model yours is.http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph-motorcycle-parts.html, thought it was about £58.00.

£52.92 I make it , not bad at all for genuine Triumph. The pattern ones I suggested were £122

Must have got that wrong,sorry.

[leener]

New gasket ordered, stem seals arrived, and tool kit at the ready.

Going to watch a few videos of other people doing similar jobs, and then all I need is a weekend without rain.

Now to play the waiting game...

[TimR]

New gasket ordered, stem seals arrived, and tool kit at the ready.

Going to watch a few videos of other people doing similar jobs, and then all I need is a weekend without rain.

Now to play the waiting game...

 

Have you got valve grinding paste and spinner tool ?

As you are disturbing the valves you will have to grind the seats to create a fresh face .

[leener]

No... This is news to me! I need to do some more homework...

[TimR]

No... This is news to me! I need to do some more homework...

If your removing the head its worth doing it . Its not as hard as it sounds .

[SlowBusa]

Your not actually disturbing the valves as they rotate slowly when the engine is running anyway

But grinding them can make a BIG difference and seeing as your gonna take the head off you might as well do the job

Bad valve sealing can lose you a lot of PSI Compression = Power

Dont expect it to be a 5 min job though

Edited January 18, 2018 by SlowBusa

[SlowBusa]

And of course your gonna check shims while your at it?

Isnt it annoying when a simple job turns into a major venture

[leener]

I didn't even think of all this! Good job I asked on here. (Best forum on the web.)

Everything I ordered so far should be arriving today: Oil filter, head gasket, sump washer, already got valve seals. So, I could take the engine head off and get ready to do it, then quiz you all about this job involving valve grinding, and shims, as I'm sipping a beer, trying to figure out how to get the head off.

But, wouldn't it be a shame if it decided to rain like the amazon this weekend?

 

[megawatt]

I have a SPQR valve lapping machine that you attach to a drill. Makes valve lapping quicker and easier.

[leener]

I have a SPQR valve lapping machine that you attach to a drill. Makes valve lapping quicker and easier.

 

I could do with one of them. I have just read up on valve lapping and fully understand it. One thing I read up on instructed to use a suction cap, while the valve is back in the head, and turn until the compound doesn't make any grinding noise. Sounds simple enough, but the hard part will come putting the valve springs back in.

[megawatt]

It's fairly easy with a valve spring compressor and a pair of tweasers.

[TimR]

I have a SPQR valve lapping machine that you attach to a drill. Makes valve lapping quicker and easier.

 

I could do with one of them. I have just read up on valve lapping and fully understand it. One thing I read up on instructed to use a suction cap, while the valve is back in the head, and turn until the compound doesn't make any grinding noise. Sounds simple enough, but the hard part will come putting the valve springs back in.

No the hard part is keeping track of the collets and their replacement ... they are fiddly feckers .... block off any void in their area with paper towel or rag to save them dropping into the recesses

May be beneficial to get hold of a magnetic wand.

Have a clean working area and preferably on a non rough surface ( don't go dragging the head surface over a concrete floor etc )

[SlowBusa]

No the hard part is keeping track of the collets and their replacement ... they are fiddly feckers .... block off any void in their area with paper towel or rag to save them dropping into the recesses

May be beneficial to get hold of a magnetic wand.

Have a clean working area and preferably on a non rough surface ( don't go dragging the head surface over a concrete floor etc )

 

A magnetic wand is so cheap BUT such an important piece of kit for your tool collection (get a one with a flexi last section for bolts you drop into engine area)

I mark up a sheet of paper with piston valve numbers for reference then use a small bag for each valve and its furniture with individual numbers on

the bags that correspond with the "paper ref" and put them somewhere they cant be disturbed by accident (i use kitchen windowsill)

Then Every valve I take out gets my full attention (you cant afford your mind to wander)

As [mention]TimR[/mention] says the Collets are fiddly little buggers and you should treat them like they are gold nuggets (they were hard to find when I lost one)

[megawatt]

A slightly magnetised screwdriver is very useful. My magnetic wand has too strong a magnet.

[leener]

All points duly noted, thank you.

The advice I have so far is golden.

I have ordered a Holts Valve spinning tool, with two grades of compound, and a motorcycle valve spring compressor removal tool. I want to make sure I get the job right. I have a magnetic wand somewhere. If I can't find it, then I have plenty of tools to make one up.

Now that I have virtually all of the tools I need, I might see how I get on, and think about starting a career in mechanics... Actually, scrap that idea. Everyone is going "electric" now, aren't they?

[megawatt]

When you compress the springs, sometimes the collets won't release their grip on the collar. Just give the compressor a tap with a metal hammer to shock the steel parts apart.

[SlowBusa]

£ assembly lube

edit:

Although I dont know what others think but I use 2-stroke oil (30w) cylinder head studs/bolts are best with 30w instead of 10w/40

(APE manufacture recommends it)

Edited January 19, 2018 by SlowBusa

[leener]

Just give the compressor a tap with a metal hammer to shock the steel parts apart.

 

Thanks. I will have to clear a space somewhere out the back, maybe in the gazeebo - and keep a clean area, in case I drop a collet.

Some points that I thought of are;

- I need to label up every bucket and keep each shim separate, so they go back the same. I know the clearances were spot on and don't expect them to change, after a bit of cleaning and grinding. Must check clearances again, after re-assembling.

- I need to find the correct bolt removal sequence, torque specs, and keep each bolt in the same order, in a template that I'll cut out of cardboard.

- Make sure the head gasket fits...

Do I need to drain coolant, first?

I am most definitely giving it a fresh filter and oil, after all this work.

[SlowBusa]

Do I need to drain coolant, first?

I am most definitely giving it a fresh filter and oil, after all this work.

Yep drain coolant (dont you have to remove radiator on your bike?)

and run a heat cycle with current oil/filter then change oil/filter ...that way anything thats suspended in the old oil is drained ...and dosnt circulate in the new oil

[SlowBusa]

and run a heat cycle with current oil/filter then change oil/filter ...that way anything thats suspended in the old oil is drained ...and dosnt circulate in the new oil

This is AFTER re assembly

[megawatt]

Clearances may change according to how bad the valve faces are.

Undo in the opposite sequence to torquing up, start at the opposite corners and work inwards.

[fastbob]

A slightly magnetised screwdriver is very useful. My magnetic wand has too strong a magnet.

 

Good point , you don't want a magnet attached to the crank shaft!