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Can you import a file from AutoCAD/Inventor in to the software?


I'm watching with interest as I'm extremely interested in getting one. :-)


What were the extra bits you got by the way and are they any good?

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It really is a revelation. I cant code.... or use a printer very well! Look forward to seeing the results 👍

 

Did get my first 'plastic jam' earlier and don't think I'll ever moan about normal printers again hehe was a pain to get sorted and being impatient didn't wait for things to cool down and sure enough burnt my finger :roll: :lol:

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Can you import a file from AutoCAD/Inventor in to the software?


I'm watching with interest as I'm extremely interested in getting one. :-)


What were the extra bits you got by the way and are they any good?

 

Yeah you can, I've gone with openscad as for me it was simpler for this project, do intend to try something more advanced in autocad next but wishing I paid more attention to cad classes at college now.


Got an uprated power supply, always good for something that relies on heat. To go with that 2 mosfets (effectively like a relay) so the bed and hotend pull power straight from power supply and not through board, more a safety / longevity upgrade.


Fibreglass reinforced belts... After time the standard ones can stretch and sag.


Did get a glass sheet for heat bed, gives better adhesion and smoother first surface but not tried that yet as happy enough with using painter's tape on bed for now.


Also got an upgraded fan (to cool once printed) but not fitted that yet and standard one is doing ok so far (but not done anything too complex yet).

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That mosfet stuff is waaay outside the bounds of my electrical knowledge! You haven't got a handy idiot's guide have you? ;-)


I've got AutoCAD and Inventor of you need a hand drawing stuff up.

 

They are as simple as relays... Basically as standard hot end and heat bed will have temp sensors and power supply running to them from plug into motherboard, you cut the power wires and link them into mosfet board (control) you then run a supply from power supply to mosfet (input) and then output to the bed / hot end, then when motherboard goes up supply with power it instead sends power to mosfet which will only take a tiny amount of power and then that sends power from power supply instead.

 

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Thanks :thumb: I probably will when I get started on that.

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I love the fact that you can but a 3d printer thats a ok but needs improved but that you can then print the parts to improve it :D

 

Yeah great innit :lol: you can also use them to print parts to make more 3D printers.


Have to say totally hooked now, definitely worth it, tbh if I hadn't have thought to try this one and bought one for £200 (budget I was looking at originally) and got this quality I'd have been happy.


Can now also print out some spacers for blinds in bedroom so they clear window handles :D

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It really is a revelation. I cant code.... or use a printer very well! Look forward to seeing the results 👍

 

Did get my first 'plastic jam' earlier and don't think I'll ever moan about normal printers again hehe was a pain to get sorted and being impatient didn't wait for things to cool down and sure enough burnt my finger :roll: :lol:

 

Oh I can offer assistance in the jamming up of printers, I’m good at that!


Love the pictures. How is the plastic loaded? What does it look like, are the different coloured cartridges? The plastic looks brittle, is it durable?

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Plastic is loaded via a spool, single colour but you can get / modify machines with two or more hot ends, however this is more useful to use a support plastic (normally one dissolved in water) to make more complex prints, I've seen videos of springs being printed using this method. Tbh single colour is fine for me and if I modify mine it would be to use it for support, everything else can be painted afterwards.


The plastic I'm using is PLA which is quite strong but not flexible, so will not flex much without breaking. You can print in ABS but main reason for not using that is heating ABS produces fumes so you would need to vent machine / area. There are also lots of other materials you can print with but PLA and ABS are most common.

 

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There’s something a bit willywonka about it. I have many more questions but I think I’ll find a YouTube vid and save you all the pain!

 

I think it's great how raw it looks, you can see belts and motors spinning away as things print. Loads on YouTube but feel free to ask away.

 

On a separate note if that’s your kitchen counter are you living on cornflakes?!

 

Lol, luckily have a decent size kitchen so plenty of space left, that's breakfast bar part and I rarely have breakfast :lol: but have had so much stuff out recently when working on it I've managed to cover it, but enough space to squeeze dominos box on it :thumb:

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Well got psu mounted finally, own design which had a couple of annoyances which cropped up, first design I got some measurements wrong so corrected those and then decided to add some extra plastic (the top and front sections) this then made certain screws a bit of a pain to access and needed to remove all wiring and rewire in the mount but patience paid off...

 

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And for something more practical, replaced a wheel on dishwasher I lost a year ago :lol:

 

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PLA is biodegradable though so don't expect it to last too long but proof of concept.


Next step will be to get some ABS filament for some tougher prints.

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Was that done on the fast print or slow print thing?

 

The psu mount? That was done on a medium speed which I've found gives decent enough quality at a decent speed.


Top looks a bit rough as it was printed upside down as that top bit would have been a large area to bridge otherwise (Printing between two walls in the air) plus with a lot of thin walls there's a good chance it would have lifted from print bed so I used a raft, this puts down a few rough layers a bit larger than the piece and completely solid so gives better adhesion to print bed.


For pieces that finish is important you would cut this away and then sand down that layer, I just cut round edges and reopened the top, again a perfect finish wasn't needed for that.

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