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Posted

Turned the engine on. Prior to doing so battery reading 12.5volts

Whilst Erving at 6000 revs reads at 11.95 volts and I watch the voltage drop. Over roughly one minute dropped to 11.9

Also did not start easily, took a half a breath longer than it should have.

 

Not good .

Posted

A-b b-c and a-c on the yellows all under one ohm, taking account of the multi metre leads there is about 0.3ohms in the system only a little more than the leads register.

The next set of instructions say to measure from the connector to the new terminal of the battery. If I assume that means the live (brown wire, from the connector to the battery negative terminal I get 0.8ohms. The instructions said I should not get anything?

Posted

A-b b-c and a-c on the yellows all under one ohm, taking account of the multi metre leads there is about 0.3ohms in the system only a little more than the leads register.

The next set of instructions say to measure from the connector to the new terminal of the battery. If I assume that means the live (brown wire, from the connector to the battery negative terminal I get 0.8ohms. The instructions said I should not get anything?

 

No negative on the battery

Posted

What does tab to tab mean in the latter test?

 

Tab to tab is the tabs within the connector the yellow connectors

Posted

No reading at all across a to the negative battery terminal same for b and c. As in it didn’t register at all, no change on the multimeter screen as if there was no circuit at all. All of this with ignition off.

Posted

No reading at all across a to the negative battery terminal same for b and c. As in it didn’t register at all, no change on the multimeter screen as if there was no circuit at all. All of this with ignition off.

 

Then that should be fine as it's not running to ground which is bad :thumb:


Just check voltage now

Posted

No reading at all across a to the negative battery terminal same for b and c. As in it didn’t register at all, no change on the multimeter screen as if there was no circuit at all. All of this with ignition off.

 

If so will check in half an hour :-)

Posted

One of my posts didn’t post.

The one I meant to quote was, the check with the engine running is that a-b a-c b-c again but with engine running?

 

Yes that's right but remember it needs to be on ac as its alternating current and you should have readings of about 75v

Posted

On this setting on multimeter

 

0A14976C-FE3E-40BE-ABBD-58BA791BC2AF.thumb.jpeg.13730a81ed227117c4a56659b74d203b.jpeg

 

I get 1.8 on a-b 1.3 on a-c and .6 on b-c


I don’t know if I have the setting of the multi meter correct or if those figure mean something to you?

Posted

On this setting on multimeter


0A14976C-FE3E-40BE-ABBD-58BA791BC2AF.jpeg


I get 1.8 on a-b 1.3 on a-c and .6 on b-c


I don’t know if I have the setting of the multi meter correct or if those figure mean something to you?

 

That's the right setting


Those readings suggest the stator is toast

Posted

You can get them re wound but not sure on the cost


Secondhand you never know what you're buying!

Posted

Is there a way to be certain it’s the stator? Are we certain it is the stator?

 

If your testing is correct then with the bike running you should have around 75v at the terminals of the stator before going in tot he reg rec


Your readings don't even make 4 volts

Posted

If you are unsure feel free to Google on how to test a stator and a reg/rec and run the tests again


There is some really good guides out there

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