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Keeway Superlight 125 - Cut Out Issues


DannyDavies05
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Hi everyone,


I was hoping somebody could help me with a few issues I am having with my Keeway Superlight 125. I am very much a newbie to the motorcycle world so do not have much expertise or knowledge to work from so apologise in advance if anything I say is incorrect or stupid.


I got my bike a few months ago and at first I did not have many issues, except that every now and then it would need a couple of goes before it fire up but then would run fine. However, as time has gone by this has become something that has become more and more common, to the point where it would need a couple of minutes before it would fire up every time I started the bike (electric or kick start) and then it got really worrying when every now and then when I was stopped (at traffic lights or junctions) it would cut out completely and I would need to restart the bike.


At this point I did a bit of research and on the advice of others changed the oil, replaced the spark plug and put in a new air filter. This helped in the general running of the bike but did not stop the starting up/cutting out issues and last weekend when I went on a longer trip it got really bad and after about 40 minutes of riding it cut out when I was on a dual garage way on numerous occasions. After this the bike would cut out every time the revs got low (on approach to traffic lights etc) and I noticed the idle position was low (just over 1 when it should be around 1.4). I luckily managed to get the bike home without much instance as I tried to drop to first when I thought I would need to slow down significantly and then just kept the revs up when I had to stop. I then left the bike to cool down and see if that changed anything and also tried to increase the rpm via the idle speed adjusting screw but I could not get it higher than just over 1 and the next time I tested it the same thing was happening till it would not start up at all. The reason for this strangely seemed to be down to the battery as the lights where dim too so I removed the battery, charged it back up and put it back in the bike and then it went back to how it was; will start up if you keep at it, idle's low and cuts out when the revs get too low.


Upon having a look around the carburettor I then noticed I had not seen before and was very surprised to see; the choke on the bike does not seem to be properly connected to the carburettor and I think a piece might be missing and no matter what position the choke is in it seems to always be in the fully on position.


I seen this yesterday and obviously do not want to go out on my bike if it is dangerous to me or others but I do need my bike for commuting so want to try and get back on the road asap. I was therefore wondering if anyone had any advice on what the issue could be with it cutting out and idling too low, is it down to the choke being constantly on or is it something else completely? Also, if anyone knows how to fix it I would obviously appreciate your help with that too!


Thanks in advance and sorry for such a long message!

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Take the carburretor off and see if the choke operates as it should, the choke should be off under normal riding and only really needs to be used to aid cold starting, once the engine has been running for a minute or so take the choke off, might help to post a video of how it runs now to help with a diagnosis :thumb:

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Hi Dynax,


Thanks for getting back to me - I appreciate it!


I will make and upload a video today. Do you think based on what I have said that it would be an issue with the choke? If so, do you think it would be worth getting a whole new carburettor? As looking at how it does not properly connect/work I do not think it is fixable.


Thanks!

Danny

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Guest Richzx6r

Hi Dynax,


Thanks for getting back to me - I appreciate it!


I will make and upload a video today. Do you think based on what I have said that it would be an issue with the choke? If so, do you think it would be worth getting a whole new carburettor? As looking at how it does not properly connect/work I do not think it is fixable.


Thanks!

Danny

 

If it is a manual choke with a lever on the left bar then it will be cable operated so you may need to get a new cable for the choke, also if the choke is on constantly then it causes the engine to run very rich and it will in effect be flooding the combustion chamber.


The idle issue is likely a different story but I'd say get the choke working properly then look in to any idle issues

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What [mention]Richzx6r[/mention] said, but some chokes haven't got a cable attached to them and you have to physically move them, the choke literally restricts the air flow and if it isn't working properly ie able to fully open the engine can't breathe properly and will cut out, make sure the choke is working as should then look at other parts of the carb, but taking it off and giving it a clean and service is not a bad thing to do anyway, and once done it can be ruled out and look at other areas if it still runs badly :thumb:

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The choke on my Suzuki used to have a little spring inside the hole where the cable screwed in. I had to replace it a couple of times as it would just rust and fall apart. Could be something similar

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Hi everyone,


Thanks so much for the replies and advice - much appreciated!


I have been looking at the choke again and the part from the switch that goes to inside the carburettor just is not there and looks as though it has been removed or broke off at some point.


I have ordered a complete new carburettor (as I cannot find anywhere to buy this part) and I am going to swap it out to see if this fixes the issue. With what you have said regarding effecting engine power etc I think this is a good place to start.


Thanks again and any more thoughts/opinions are also welcome!

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Guest Richzx6r

Hi everyone,


Thanks so much for the replies and advice - much appreciated!


I have been looking at the choke again and the part from the switch that goes to inside the carburettor just is not there and looks as though it has been removed or broke off at some point.


I have ordered a complete new carburettor (as I cannot find anywhere to buy this part) and I am going to swap it out to see if this fixes the issue. With what you have said regarding effecting engine power etc I think this is a good place to start.


Thanks again and any more thoughts/opinions are also welcome!

 

Other thoughts and opinions are .....its Chinese, made of cheese and very lucky it runs at all :popcorn:

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  • 2 years later...

Hello All,

 

I'm having the exact same problems with my bike. I took the carb apart to clean it and I still have the same issue where the engine cuts out at low revs. I have seen the video above already however the carburetor on my bike is different from the one in the video so I'm unsure what to do next. When I deconstructed the carb it didn't appear that the choke was something you could open manually as the pivot point was held in place by a permanent fixing. The throttle cable appears to be the only thing that is able to open the valves on the carb. I am probably going to need to take it to the garage to see if they can fix the issue. My best guess is that the throttle cable needs to be re-tensioned or replaced. If I find out what the problem is I will try and post it on here.

 

Wish me luck!

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  • 5 months later...

Hey, 
So i am having issues when i rev up, it is drawing air from somewhere and i am unsure where from. It makes a popping noise whenever i rev up and the bike cuts out when it pops. It is drive-able the air problem as i can rev it to the max to skip the popping, but there is another issue that i cant get over 25mph and it wont go over 5000rpm. Just wondering if anyone has had the same issue and has fixed it?

The air filter is fitted fine with no holes in it so it cant be drawing air from there, the bike is fuel injected so we have ruled out the carburettor, we have taken the exhaust off incase there was a hole in the exhaust and there is none that we can see and we tried turning the bike on with the exhaust off and it was loudly popping.  

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