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It only works in the snow!


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So out for a ride this afternoon, about a 2 hour route, set off up dhills, I live in Yorkshire, bike feels really smooth and sorted, 40 mins into ride and into Staleybridge, stop at lights, temp gauge climbs up two bars above normal fan cuts in as normal,  30 secs later engine cuts out, turns over but wont restart,not avin it. 

Umm, re-set TPS, check oil and water levels, all on their mark.

Roll bike onto pavement,  wait 15 mins for temp gauge to drop below normal,  bike starts and set off, not on the pavement!

3 miles and then temp traffic lights, borrocks, same outcome.

Wait 15 mins, bike starts, out onto open road 30 mins ride home goes without a hitch.

So, home, check visible connections, check battery voltage, all checks out OK

Hence conclusion, bike will only run in the snow!

Will be booking tbike into menders for diags check, this fault finding is above my paygrade.

 

Bike BMW K1200s, 19 years old, 30k on the clock, only clocked up 2.5k miles since full service

Any of you folks got any words of wisdom?

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7 hours ago, Fiddlesticks said:

Do bikes have sticky thermostats like cars do? Just a thought.

Possibly, but as mentioned, when running on the open road, the temp gauge stays at normal and the fan only cuts in when at standstill, temp rises as normal, then engine cuts out at idle,  so not sure that sound like cause. 

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7 hours ago, Bender said:

Does it have twin rads and fans, are both running, are the radiators clear IE the fins, not clogged up with 20yrs of flies 😁 

Only a single rad, and was replaced for new in 2016, I house the rad out as part of annual maintenance, these bikes are prone to rad gunking up. could be contaminated fuel, going back to basics, the only change since previous rideout which was fine, was fill tank BP Ultimate, bike like 98 fuel. 

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Sounds like a dud crank position sensor to me. They are basically just an electronic magnet. Eventually you get a crack in the winding which opens up when it gets hot. As soon as it cools down again you're good to go. 

 

A mate had the same on his Guzzi. He'd had in a workshop for months and they couldn't find the problem. They even replaced the ecu at enormous cost. He then found out that his Guzzi uses an ecu out of some old Peugeot, you just swap the chip over. But having spent hundreds on it he then found it was a 30 quid crank sensor that was the problem. 

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1 minute ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

Sounds like a dud crank position sensor to me. They are basically just an electronic magnet. Eventually you get a crack in the winding which opens up when it gets hot. As soon as it cools down again you're good to go. 

 

A mate had the same on his Guzzi. He'd had in a workshop for months and they couldn't find the problem. They even replaced the ecu at enormous cost. He then found out that his Guzzi uses an ecu out of some old Peugeot, you just swap the chip over. But having spent hundreds on it he then found it was a 30 quid crank sensor that was the problem. 

Thanks, interesting idea, is it probable a faulty sensor would cause engine cutting out only when engine hot and at idle, and the fault clears when engine cools down and bike runs OK when on open road?

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22 minutes ago, Fender1515 said:

Thanks, interesting idea, is it probable a faulty sensor would cause engine cutting out only when engine hot and at idle, and the fault clears when engine cools down and bike runs OK when on open road?

I've seen faulty crank sensors do that. It's the heat that does it. Usually leave them 10 - 15 minutes and they fire up again. It won't repeat until the engine gets hotter such as at idle. 

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5 minutes ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

I've seen faulty crank sensors do that. It's the heat that does it. Usually leave them 10 - 15 minutes and they fire up again. It won't repeat until the engine gets hotter such as at idle. 

OK, thanks, I will do some more research and see about sourcing replacement sensor. Cheers 

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