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Posted

I am replacing my tyres in the week and to keep costs down I intend to take the loose wheels in for the changeover. I have never removed the front before of a bike with disc brakes so can someone please confirm if the process is as follows?

 

Loosen clamp bolt at bottom of fork

Loosen axle bolt

Chock up front

Remove brake callipers x 2

Undo and drive out axle

Remove wheel

 

Is there any requirement to force back the pistons before refitting the brake discs?

 

 

Posted

pretty much what you have said 

 

make sure to loosen everything while the wheel is on the floor first its easier than fighting with the steering turning in all directions 

 

make sure you look at what spacers you have and keep them at the side of the bike they came from 

 

If you have ABS sensors undo and remove them as they can easily be damaged when removing and replacing wheels 

 

No need to push the pistons back 

 

Clean and re grease everything as you put it back 

 

Caliper bolts are meant to be clean and dry with no copper slip or anything like that so don't stick anything on those 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, AstronautNinja said:

Maybe this is a stupid question but....... Why does the caliper need removing?

 

It's possible to damage the brake pads trying to get the wheel back on, because you'll have to line up the disk(s) to slot into the calipers at the same time as trying to align and re-fit the wheel. 

Easier to just replace the calipers after the wheel is fitted. 

The calipers can stay connected to the brake hose. 

Edited by Simon Davey
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Posted
1 minute ago, Simon Davey said:

 

It's possible to damage the brake pads trying to get the wheel back on, because you'll have to line up the disk(s) to slot into the calipers at the same time as trying to align and re-fit the wheel. 

Easier to just repace the calipers after the wheel is fitted. 

The calipers can stay connected to the brake hose. 

Good to know thanks. I'm working with years of car wrenching combined with mountian bike knowledge.

  • Like 1
Posted

Also it is likely the tyre won`t fit between the calipers if they  remain in place and as @Stu says you don`t want to realise this and have to undo them when the wheel is off the deck.

Cheers

Ian

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Posted

Loosen all the bolts first (caliper, pinch, axle) before t trying to take the wheel off.

 

car brakes are set inside the wheel placement and the wheel moves outwards to the side.
Bikes brakes are set inline but ventures outside and inside the wheel placement but most tyres (modern and above 125cc) are wider than the wheel so it will be foul of the calipers,  Also it’s allows wiggle room for spacers too. 

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Posted

Managed to successfully remove the wheels ready for having new tyres fitted today and I get a call from the centre to say the rear Pirelli won't be in until August. Will now try and find me some Metzeler 02SE this week instead.

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Posted
2 hours ago, RideWithStyles said:

Why not go for a last/older generation of tyres like Rosso 3 or 2, Metz road tec 01 or even z8? They were great then and still great now, Save some bob.

 

I have asked him for alternatives like the 01SE. I really liked them on the other bike. I'll know soon enough.

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Posted
6 hours ago, veracocha said:

Managed to successfully remove the wheels ready for having new tyres fitted today and I get a call from the centre to say the rear Pirelli won't be in until August. Will now try and find me some Metzeler 02SE this week instead.

As Pirellis are now all made in China it will be stuck on a ship somewhere having to come the long way round as nobody is using the Red Sea at the moment.

  • Like 3
Posted

A bit of good luck for a change. Got a call to say they found a rear tyre and they fitted me in this afternoon. Michelin Road 6 were cheaper than the Metzeler so hope they are a decent tyre. 

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Posted
1 hour ago, veracocha said:

A bit of good luck for a change. Got a call to say they found a rear tyre and they fitted me in this afternoon. Michelin Road 6 were cheaper than the Metzeler so hope they are a decent tyre. 

They're excellent 👍

  • Like 1
Posted

They are excellent, just be sure to keep the pressures on the upper end of industry std which is F36 R40-41 psi range even if your book says 32-36 for example on a machine 

around or above 500cc+ 200kg+, check the suspension settings if unusual tyre wear is showing which can highlight even after a few hundred miles on. 

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