Mr Fro

Nah, 300 for the bike and fixing. I've been having a look about - there's plenty of shite out there and some very hopeful sellers! Anyone found anything yet?

I'd snatch it off you Steve but I reckon a geared bike would be better than a scoot.

Scratch that then.

WAIT! Better yet. Finish point of the Rally!

Yes, yes, yes. I vote for helping each other out - it'd be more fun and we'd probably meet up a bit more before the grand ordeal starts. What about a circuit route - it'd make the logistics easier. Anyone care to add to the brucey bonus challenges? 0-60-0 Lean angle challenge Wheelie length

Probably should have been paying more attention than fannying about with his blog bollocks. To be fair to him, the haze from the cars waiting to turn makes it difficult to see what's happening but then again, he should have anticipated the nob who pulled in front of him. A very similar thing happened to me but that was in bright sunlight.

Interesting info there TC. I've bought new and not-so-new bikes and cars, both on finance and with cash. The only instances of a dealer wanting to see insurance details was when I bought new, regardless of whether they are main dealer or otherwise.

I'm not going destructivise it although it would amuse me if when they plugged it in, it made a farty noise and stank out their lab. I don't know how I'd do that in a way that it was impossible to turn off but I can dream.

The IP ship sailed long ago - the lawyer people took a bit of a far fetched view on the wording of my contract. They stated that they weren't going to do anything with it so between the lines it was so I couldn't market it and lose the company their advantage. That's one annoyance and naivety on my part but effectively stealing my property is really winding me up. Threatening to take my redundancy if I take something that is lawfully mine is ridiculous.

Interesting idea Hoggs - I think I'd thoroughly kiss my redundancy goodbye if things went that way though. I already got bent over for the patent Joe - I just want cash for the physical thing. There is no alternative and my device has a huge amount of data that shows that it works. It's even going in a paper that's going out in a journal in the next month or so. I'm staggered by the arrogance if I'm honest. It's just not the way to do business. If I were them, I'd be chuffed to bollocks that a major problem was solved and I'd saved a huge wedge of cash. I'd certainly make sure the guy who came up with it got compensated adequately for what he'd done. No way would I let him go out of pocket for saving me half a million and giving me a huge competitive advantage.

f**k, f**k, f**king hell, f**k, f**kery! My employer has marvelously decided that a device that I made in my garage, using things that I bought with my money which allows a bit of lab kit to function rather than hideously overheat is no longer mine but actually theirs. They want to ship the kit to the US so I said (nicely) they need to pay me for it or I'd take it off. Que a secret telecon I found out about second hand where apparently I got torn to shreds. Got called in to a meeting with the site head earlier who told me I no longer owned it and that if I removed it, I'd be disciplined and dismissed for sabotaging company property - thus forfeiting my redundancy. I tried to explain that the device is my property, the components of which I paid for but the guy wouldn't listen. What the f**king f**k? What they're doing amounts to theft (appropriating property belonging to another). I'm so f**king angry that I'm again getting the royal shaft from these guys. Insult to injury is that none of the people who made this majestic decision will openly discuss it with me.

I've used Wurth dry lube and it's fine so long as the chain is nice and warm. Otherwise it solidifies on contact and doesn't seep in. I use Castrol Racing chain lube nowadays - works a treat and doesn't fling much.

Spot on - had the same problem with a GPZ900. It turned out the wire had worn through and snapped. A tiddly bit of solder got the show back on the road.

Take a look at it first bud. Would you want it back if it were bollocksed?

Dude, I ran mine in as-per the destructions. It was agony pootling along at 60 but I stuck with it because *apparently* the max revs are logged in the ECU and I didn't want to knack the warranty. 10 years on and it's still good as gold engine wise. In hindsight, and if I were to get another brand-spanker, I would ride it normally without stressing it too much - lugging, screaming it etc...

I don't know of a mass produced one but that's not to say it doesn't exist (likely US import). Do you not like the standard one then? You could get one made up (or do it yourself) - it looks a bit tight but coming out behind the rearset is probably do-able.

Nice. It's always good when you can fix something without actually fixing it.

Gotcha. The papery/card type numbers? If it's not broken or cracked, I'd reuse it. I don't use sealer on carbs because they're a sod to get back apart again. I recently tried bog standard gasket paper to make up a float bowl gasket and it weeped fuel a bit - probably would have been better if I'd got the proper paper though.

Just buy a pack of nitrile o-rings for a tenner on Amazon. You get a load of sizes. I also have a few sizes of o-ring cord for making up unusual lengths. Only a few quid/metre.

"Do you like my grey box?"

We need pictures to give you an honest assessment.

Sounds a bit like reading tea leaves. We all did it back in the day - take the bike for a big boy thrash and look at the plug after. For the sake of 20-30 quid (easily made back in time and not shagging your engine), a dyno run or two is the way to go.

Hey Phoo. Had the same thing on my ZXR when I was moving house. Bugger wouldn't start so I had to heave it on to the trailer manually. Typically, the bloody thing started right up after I unloaded it - think it was probably the float needles got stuck after sitting for a few months and needed a jiggle to free them up. Have you tried draining the carbs off? That way you'll see if you're getting fuel through and it's only a few minutes to do. If it were me I'd drain them all (with fuel tap off). Give them a tap with a spanner, bung the tap back on and see what happens. Next would be the hose off the tap to see if that's flowing and take it from there.

Generally speaking you need to loosen off the bolt then give the bolt a little tap on the end. Most bar end weights have a quill (like a bicycle stem) or a rubber compression bung and need the tap to free them off.

Step 1 - Give it a good tidy up! See if you can re-route those cables if you can and do something about that massive long speech cable (or whatever it is) 2 - It would look a whole lot better if you could get those bits around the engine and under the seat in to a box such as a dummy oil tank or battery box. Don't know about the tyre availability but if you can't get some then there is tyre paint on the market. Paint wise, I reckon it'd look pretty smart with a bit of matt black mixed in there. Nothing huge, just a bit of stencilling here and there.