Cpt_Tact

Well, this was the nobs of the day. My brother and I took a trip to Wales to Llandovery to see how the roads had faired this weekend. Not much traffic around and a lot of the roads were all newly laid, fantastic times ensued! Arrived in Llandovery at the West End Cafe and there was about 15 people there all spread out with gaps between the bikes (perfect social distancing). Got our butty and was sat in the car park on our bikes when a group of about 40 bikers rocked up, quite a few reviving the throttle whilst as slow speed as if they were two strokes (they weren't). They then ignored the rest of the open car park and decided to squeeze in between the other bikes with the gaps (one guy nearly bumped into me reversing next to my bike). They then go off and bunched together to talk (shout) and then all piled into the cafe in one big mass and blocked the footpath outside. I genuinely feel sorry for the locals who have had peace for the last few months and now these idiots are back as if things hadn't changed whilst sticking two fingers up to social distancing! Sadly it is something I see all over the place from bikers now that restrictions have eased up.

I have small fingers and I found Held gloves work really well and even the thumb is a normal length. What people have said above is right, your fingers should be just ever so lightly brushing the end of the gloves when on the bars with a closed grip, which means when you put on gloves normally there should be a little room at your tips which closes up when you grip something. When you try on gloves go find a bike to sit on and test. Most sensible bike shops will see no problem with this and some even have a handlebar in the gloves section to try out. Gloves that touch your fingertips with an open hand will create pressure points and restrict your movement when gripping the bars which, is horrible on a long day. Some say leather gloves stretch about 5% and will go down the route of wearing them and dunking them in water and then going for a ride to break them in. I personally found they just soften up a little so I just try to find gloves that fit well to begin with, which are snug (not tight) but have the little gap at the end of the fingers from day one. 5% of 3" is not a lot (3-4mm) and textiles do not break-in at all.

My brother has had a set on his Aprilia RSV Mille for the last 3+ years and that bike has only ever been on lovely British roads, he has hit a fair few potholes in his time, one so hard he sent the wheels back to be scanned as he was freaking out. They came back all fine! Performance - the difference was night and day for turning in but that is on a 2006 fatty of a bike that has about 2 degrees of steering lock so on a modern-day handling missile like an R1M I doubt it would be as pronounced unless in combination with a diet in other areas. Would I buy them if I could happily afford them - hell yes and why not as they look stunning! If I couldn't or had to stretch my budget then no way.

Diablo Rosso Corsa 2 (fitted to a 675R) 12/70 front & 180/55 rear £245 front and back - purchased in May 2019 and again in May 2020 2019 set - Just over 3000 road miles including 2 fast/ inters track days (Silverstone/ Bedford Autodrome), tested in both baking hot conditions, normal UK summer, torrential rain and 1x damp track day. Good Points: Grip is phenomenal on the road and on the track, you can lean really hard on the front and it's like a mountain goat. Tyres do not wonder when leant over - once you are down they are like rails. Torrential rain - providing you can keep the heat in them i.e. keep riding fairly normally and stay off the last inch or two you can ride like it was a sport touring tyre, no slipping or spinning up. Pretty good mileage for what is a 50/ 50 road & track tyre. Confidence-inspiring. Fast turning. Extremely fast heat up even on the road. Perfect for all but the fastest of riders on track days. Bad Points/ Considerations: When you move on to the last 2 inches of the tyre it is basically a racing slick and you can feel that movement as it bites into the tarmac which, for the first week or so felt like it was the tyre moving/ sliding - once you know what that feeling is its not an issue but it was something that put me a little on edge as I'd never felt it to that extreme on a bike before. Tyre pressures can take a little finessing - I settled on cold pressures 36/36 for road and 30/ 28 for most tracks but the Silverstone surface was 28/26. The "drop" when you lean over is very pronounced due to the shape of the tyres so if you are coming from a sport touring tyre just be aware these do not roll but give very precise lean angels. Forget these when the temp dips below about 10 degrees, I found they just didn't like the cooler/ colder weather and that "grippy feeling" in all conditions just drops off. A good sport touring tyre would run rings around these in those conditions. Love them so much that these are now my late spring to early autumn tyres on all my bikes (even my new XSR700). Late autumn to late spring I'll be sticking with my Dunlop Roadsmart 3s. I would highly recommend these for fast road riding and track use for novice and inters/ low advanced.

Depends on the ride I'm heading out for For a proper blast I'll be out on my own at 7am or 8am for a few hours while the traffic is very light and I'll be home by 11am if I'm not meeting anyone. I'm not a fan of pushing on when in a group as I like to be concentrating on my riding and not wondering what everyone else is doing or where they are. I wouldn't want to encourage someone to "keep up" or talk myself into doing the same as luck like grip runs out. If I am doing some sightseeing and a chilled out ride with some friends then any time from about 10am-9pm, midday heat doesn't bother me as I run cold, wear a vented leather jacket and I actually love the sun and the hot weather (the hotter the better). The bulk of riders I see around this way are usually from about midday till about 5pm and it is utter carnage out on the country roads, I've even heard a couple of people in the shops moaning that it's even worse for bikers this year with the number of people on furlough and that "they are writing to their local MP to get something done"!

I have a 2013 ST 675R and it is a cracking bike and capable of having a giggle on the track as well. They are fairly cheap to buy and quite a few spare parts kicking around. Have a look at an older model of SV650 as they too are brilliant beginner/ intermediate bikes, lovely twin sound, very reliable, not bonkers power but plenty on the twisties, shed loads of parts and race parts so fairly easy to get upgrades/ replacements for not a lot of cash. Mid range on the insurance grouping. CBR600F3/ f4i are also great bikes and fairly cheap. First big bike, get something cheap so when, and it is when you drop it you can just replace the parts from ebay or Fbook market place. Have you tried BeMoto for insurance? They are very helpful and are a broker so tend to look around for good deals.

Renapur on my jackets and boots so I wouldn't see why it wouldn't work for leather gloves as well.

I'm not overly impressed with my 2013 Triumph, I had it ACF50'd for winter but only took it out when it was above 5 degrees and no salt kicking about with a few rainy days thrown in, washed it and put it back in the garage for the last 6 weeks. Took the bike out to deep clean it during COVID lock down last week and most of the bolts are looking a little rusted/ weathered as well as the radiator mounting bracket. Engine paint at the front underneath the radiator is coming away and there is some bubbling on the N/S engine case. My last bike which was an Aprilia Dorsoduro fared much better during the winter months and that didn't have any treatment on it, surprises me that an Italian bike would fair much better than a UK one to a UK winter.

On my 675R ST I usually get about ~120 miles before the light comes on and that's with normal road riding and a few enthusiastic sprints. On a fairly open track with a long straight its about 65-70 miles before the light comes on. Tight and technical maybe another 10-15 miles more.

I think the biggest issue with riding a motorcycle isn't so much the social distancing but if you crash there are a few concerns, accidents are accidents and can happen regardless of how you are riding: Roads are quiet so you may push it a little more If you break down it means a recovery company has to come out and get you, unless you have a mate with a van nearby Roads are quieter so may be longer for someone to notice you crashed into a hedge and are now unconscious (if it was a bad one) It may take longer for the emergency services to get to you as they are understaffed and struggling You take away an ambulance because you wanted a non-essential ride and potentially from someone who needs it more You would then be taken to a hospital which will dramatically increase you risk of catching the virus and if you are badly injured I am guessing the last thing your body needs is something else to fight off You take away more NHS staff from people who need it, who didn't decide to go out for a ride on their motorcycle Just stay at home and when this all cools down it will be nice and warm and then everyone can get on with buck fever from being excited to get out and crash to their hearts content. If everyone sticks to the guidelines it means we can get back to some normality quicker, not overload the NHS (which is what this is really about) and hopefully not have a higher death toll because the NHS is beyond capacity. I feel that a lot of the people who don't take this seriously are the ones who haven't had one of the loved ones die with it or pass because of the lack of staff available in the NHS, its selfish and unfair to think you know better than people who are working in the Hospitals who are dealing with this fallout. If you value the NHS and respect the people there who are at mental and physical breaking point then please listen to what they are asking and stay at home!

Not the cheapest but my set of Alpinestars Belize Drystar Oiled Boots are fantastic for touring and general riding. Exceptionally comfortable, great protection and they don't squeak like regular motorcycle boots. Waterproof as well even in heavy downpours and they look fairly inconspicuous under Kevlar jeans to the point where people in my office didn't realise I was wearing motorcycle boots. Entry system is easy with Velcro and the 2x clasps. I just give them a wipe down every now and again and a covering of renapur/ nikwax during the winter months. https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/304736

It is very much the case of until you ride it you never know and by ride it I mean for more than 60 mins the dealer typically gives you. A few dealers will offer longer rides at an additional cost and if you buy take off the cost of the "rental" against the final price. By taking them out for longer you should be able to get past the initial learning of the bike, clutch point etc and focus on how it feels although this may be a little harder for you as you are fairly new to riding (not meant as a put down). Personally I have a 2013 Street Triple R and it is a cracking handling bike, enough poke for UK roads and even the odd track day if you fancy it whilst giving you a little character from the triple engine, the 765R/RS is even better again with the extra grunt and electronics. A few friends have upgrade from the 675 to the 765 and have no feeling to move up to a 1000 as they don't see how much quicker you could actually go on a twisty country road without being someone special or suicidal. The MT07 I found quite bland and more of a commuter bike but still not a bad bike at all, MT09 is a big step up from the MT07 and just does everything a little better. I haven't ridden the SP version or any middle weight BMW so couldn't offer my opinion on them. General servicing costs depends heavily on whether you take it to a dealer or a regular garage but if you are buying brand new then costs will be fairly consistent from dealers and you can ask what they are before you buy as they are usually a fixed price. Once out from the dealers warranty then most minor servicing can be done by even the most ham fisted person. Oil and filter packs can be bought on ebay for about £45 and will take about 45 minutes of your time to complete. Front and rear pads again can be changed within about 30 minutes and those costs are based on whether you want normal pads or something a little softer for extra bite. Brake fluid takes a little longer as you cannot rush it or you will end up with soggy brakes but still doable under the hour mark. Doing your own minor servicing allows you to check over the bike in a little more detail then just as you walk up to it and kick the tires and chain and turn the key. With all new bikes I would suggest investing about £45 and get the suspension setup professionally for your weight and the type of roads you will be riding on as this honestly makes a huge difference to how a bike "feels" when you are sat on it, compliance is king on a normal road rather than setting it up for the "track" as trust me it wont make you any quicker and you will probably cry after catching a few pot holes. Congratulations on passing and a few more bits of advice: Sign up for a Rospa or IAM to continue learning and improving, riding a bike is a marathon rather than a sprint and they will help you build your confidence in a controlled environment with someone who knows what they are doing and give you quality time on your new wheels, you cannot fast track time or experience. Never chase someone who is quicker than you, stay away from idiots who do stupid overtakes/ aggressive riding and learn at your own pace, bad habits are hard to unlearn and could cost you your life. This is especially true of riding in groups with friends or bike meets. The stickiest rubber on the market doesn't mean it is the stickiest rubber on the road as they need to be worked to get the heat in them, sports touring tires are fantastic all rounders and work in a whole range of temperatures and will offer more grip that you will need for quite some time so don't think tires or the size of the hero strips maketh the rider, save your pennies and your sanity.

My few seem insignificant compared to some of you lot First bike was a Stomp 140 pit bike which got me hooked on motorbikes and then owned the below over the last 10 years. KXF250 Husqvarna TE 410 SV650 CBR600F3 GSX-R750 KTM950SM CBR600F4i Aprilia Dorsoduro 750 (favorite bike out of all of them and wish I never sold it) GSX-R600 (track) Street Triple 675R - current Long term borrowed off friends: CB500 GSX750 Daytona 675 Aprilia RSV4 Husqvarna TE 510

To be honest its not so bad in today's market with companies like Sportbikeshop which offer free returns on helmets so you can keep testing until you find the one but only if you have the time or if possible buy 2 at a time. Otherwise go to a shop and pay the extra £20 and enjoy the ranges and the staff support they offer. I buy my helmets online from them and before I purchased my Arai I tried a few models out, Bell, Shoei and X-Lite. As long as it is snug with no major movement up down left and right, no pressure points (sore red marks) after wearing it watching TV for as long as you can (I always go for an hour) then its ok. Just don't take off the visor plastic wrap with all the logos etc they will take it back. Loads of videos out there tell you how they should fit or get a knowledgeable mate to watch you try them on. Most of the brands will say what head shape they usually fit for and that just involves taking a photo of the top of your head in a mirror or a partner and off you go. Helmets always give a very small amount after break in and most lids now have removable pads either in the cheeks, temple or both to get the fit just right. So if the cheeks pads are making you chew your cheeks but the crown fits perfectly snug then you could possibly remove the 5mm adjustable to make them fit. If you are going for a headset that's when it becomes tricky as not all lids have the pod cutouts for the speakers so they could end up being very uncomfortable if you aren't careful or a close chin guard which means the mic is pushed up against your teeth. But if in doubt go to a shop as they are always helpful!

Dunlop Roadsmart 3s are pretty epic IMO. Great for all year round use, will handle well when pushed (even in the wet) and give good mileage! If you want something a little sportier then the Dunlop Sportsmart 3s are also really good and are currently on my 675R. I am still riding in these lovely conditions and providing you give them a little time to heat up before you push on and stay off the last inch in the wet then they are also a great contender. One track day and 1500+ miles in and they still look like new!

https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/266378 I can highly rate these! Had them now for nearly 7 years and are still in one piece apart from the toe sliders being ground out. Still waterproof (Gore-Tex)and work well even in the very cold winter (with the right sock). Easy to put on and adjust for tightness with the inner pull cord system, unbelievably comfortable even from out the box and have just gotten better with use over time. Yes they aren't cheap but with the abuse I have given them they are still looking great with a clean and a bit of nikwax at the beginning of the winter. Of all the boots I have and had these are still my go to ones for everything from cold, wet track days to touring and commuting. I also have a set of the below which, after many years are still holding up, very comfortable and still waterproof. https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/304736

Just playing devils advocate here but unless you are using the breaks hard and often e.g. on a track or they are looking a bit perished then I wouldn't worry about replacing them. The braided lines look nice and work well in certain circumstances but for general road riding you wouldn't notice the difference. Hel are good and worth the money and if you can switch from 2x lines to 3x lines (individual lines on the each front caliper) then go for it. Its your money at the end of the.

The last part of my journey is 10miles down un-gritted, muddy country lanes so I have never bothered in the winter as to me I'm lucky and can afford a card so it isn't worth the risk! I will go out on the weekends if the weather is +4 degrees as my heated grips and heated jacket does everything I need and there is always a coffee place nearby if it gets too much. The mud and the wet doesn't really bother me unless I am riding at night when you can't see the mud mid corner until it is too late. I love riding but when it is icy/ snowy or hammering it down before I leave then the joy disappears and I like my limbs where they are

Clipping/ brushing it I wouldn't worry about it too much, if you collect it then stop and offer to pay for it and just hope it isn't a heated mirror on a Mercedes! It is a lesson learnt as regardless of whether they were being a numpty and sitting in the middle of the road to look at the queue of traffic it's up to you to make sure you can fit through, maybe drop the speed to a walking pace so you have more time to judge if you will fit. I am one of those people who push in peoples mirrors when they squeeze over the middle white line or have moved out to shrink the gap when they have seen me filtering, usually it's someone telling me it is illegal to filter and I calmly correct them and move on. My usual pace is about 5mph above what everyone else is doing as to me its still progress and I will be long gone through the traffic whilst they are still sat there, if a faster filter comes up behind you then at the next available place just pull in and let them through. If you ride like a plonker through traffic (not saying you did) you might get the next biker in bother by winding up the other motorists tanking it through at 40+mph which I have seen when I have been in my car, scared the crap out of me and my mates kids in the back!

In my Arai's I use one of the Pinlock ProtecTint inserts as its the best of both worlds, takes out the glare on sunny days/ low sun in winter and then back to clear when the sun goes down. Yes its not cheap but if you are buying a pinlock its only an extra £20. It is not instant ~1 min to change back but as it goes a smoked tint it doesn't matter when you go in to tunnels or under trees. Works all year, doesn't fog up unlike the internal drop downs and as a worst case I will just wear sun glasses if I ever find myself needing additional darkness which in the UK has pretty much been never. There are plenty of cheap polarised sunglasses out there with narrow frames without the ear hook that work really well in helmets, I bought a set of eBay for about £10 and they just sit under my seat in the summer. If your helmet doesn't have ProtecTint available then I would put in a light smoke as that won't bother you too much at night and if you did get stopped on a very cloudy/ rainy day I doubt the Police would even give it a second glance. IMO keep the dark visor for the track where you will look even cooler in the photos

To be honest I would run the full tank and if you really really need it either fill up onsite (most large tracks have onsite fuel, yes its not cheap but who cares for one tank) or nip out at lunch and brim it. Saves faffing with a jerry can or multiple small jerry cans. On my regular track days I will do a full tank on my 675R and track dependent maybe another half/ 2/3rds if there are many long straights. If its a skills day then it will be fairly relaxed and you won't be pinned all day especially if its on cornering as they will be focusing on technique but you may get the last few sessions as all out time.

I have a set of these and honestly 2 years later they are still waterproof, they even survived monsoon rain in Vietnam whilst up in the mountains on motox bikes. https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/33286

Packtalk Bold, yes they aren't the cheapest but my friends and I all have them for chatting through towns etc. Volume is easy to hear even with plugs in and I have it hooked up to my phone as well as the mesh network with my friends. Mic is fantastic for cutting out wind noise to the point when people ring they don't believe I am on my bike, we also fitted some them in to open face lids whilst in the Algarve and it was only when we went above 50mpg they struggled and then we swapped out to the chunky mic cover and all was good again. Battery is good for 7+ hours of chatting. I have done the £20/ £50 specials and they just don't last at all long, volume is poor, wind noise is poor and the mic is poor. I am in the park of buy once buy right with comms.

I have a set on my ST R675 and providing you accept your visibility is less then its all good. Never had a issue with filtering or vibration but do have my knuckle armour scuffed from reaching for leavers. It cleans up the lines on my bike a treat!

Alpinestars Atem v3 One Piece motorcycle suit. Size 46 (56 EU, I’m a 42” chest as this fits perfect). £600 Bought new in May this year to see if I enjoyed trackdays. Circumstances mean I won’t be doing them again. I have used this on 4 track days. It’s in excellent condition (as new). FYI there is no pocket for a back protector as it’s designed to be used with a strap on protector. If I get the full asking price I will include my CE level 2 force field back protector vest which was £120 new in May. If you have thick calf’s this may not be the suit for you as it’s a tight fit down there. This suit is extremely flexible and ventilated which is great for movement and all day comfort. Happy to post but at your cost. Item is based in Ross on Wye Herefordshire.