bonio

Yup. All the best!

Sore joe85. That was meant to be a reply to a different post Sent from mTalk

I've used sugru a bit to mend things around the house. To be honest, it's not as good as the marketing material. It come unstuck too easily. I wouldn't trust it to hold a camera mount. Sent from mTalk

Ask the instructors and they'll say that some examiners are more easy going than others. So don't sweat over it too much... chances are that next time you'll get someone in a better mood and do just fine. I remember what it feels like though... failing is inconvenient and expensive to boot Sent from mTalk

... and I thought 'pukka abs' meant going to the gym a lot

As far as I know, they both cover the same material from roadcraft, and they both use the same approach, which is based on rides with an observer following you. The main difference is that the IAM certificate lasts for life, but the RoSPA one lasts for three years, after which you have to do a (free) refresher test.

I learned to do this for real in India. Survival instinct is a great teacher.

Yup my HJC was comfortable and quiet. It was £50 in clearance and amazing value.

120 m of pudding shops willingly sacrificed?

Some years ago I bought a CB500 from a friend. It came with Givi top box and panniers. It also came with a cardboard box, and inside this box was a mounting kit for a Givi top box, all in bits. But what box and what bike?? The CB is long gone, but the box of bits is still in the garage. I don't want to take it to the tip, but is there any chance of finding what bike it might fit? I can put a photo of the assorted bits out, but I can't imagine this is going to help

Round battery terminals at one end. Connection for a CTEK battery charger at the other. Like this It came with the VanVan, but I'm an Oxford man, so can't use it PM me and I'll post it to you.

Yes, ride for a while. You'll get more out of further training the more confident you are handling the bike. Bikesafe is a great way into further training. It's just a few sessions, and you get some biker coppers to follow you and assess your ride. And it's not expensive - a lot cheaper than a training school would be.

Or hedgehog strips?

Winter riding, particularly in January and February, is different from riding in summer. To my mind, it's less fun, cos most of the time the roads are a bit slidey, and the opportunities for hooning around and having a blast are far fewer. If there's snow lying on the road then I stay indoors, and on those occasion days when the roads turn to sheet ice, but part from in those conditions, it's completely safe. The worst is when they start salting the roads, the roads somehow become a bit slippery; my guess is that you get a film of tyre rubber and salt and whatever they add now to make the salt stick, and it's not quite as grippy as real tarmac. So I just try to do everything smoothly, with a bit more looking ahead and planning, and I mix in a tad more back brake than in summer. Frost isn't usually much of a problem, but I watch out for black ice, especially at the edge of the road. The best thing about winter riding comes on bright, frosty days, when the roads are dry and the sky is ice blue and you can blast out to the coast or wherever and enjoy being outside when everyone else's bike is sorned up in some garage One more thing: British winters are merciless on the bike. I clean mine in November and slather it in ACF50 to protect it from the worst of the salt. When April comes I wash all the ACF50 and crud off and inspect the damage done. It's never a happy sight. After three winters, the bike now looks three times the age of one that only goes out on nice summer days. Some bikes do ok. The GS isn't one of them.

Hahaha. You found it then

No pass for tonight.

Fantastic And well done!

Helmet, gloves, boots, jacket, trousers. Like Neil says, buy the helmet new at a shop where you can try it on and get them to help you get the best fit. Everything else you can get second-hand from ebay or wherever.

Ooh excellent choice of bike you have there sir Suzuki DL1000? Nice spot, Hoggs. Top bike.

Well done mate Oooh new bike time. Very exciting. Can't advise you on nakeds, though... I like being able to stretch out and put the kettle on for a cuppa when I'm hooning down the motorway

Hahaha. It's true, bacon's not one of the country's top dishes for sure, but it depends where you are. If you're desperate there are places in Tel Aviv that do it. Other places you can't even get a hot falafel on a Friday night.

Hoggs she be right.

I would find that clumsy to do. I often double or triple shift coming down the gears. But I if you do, then yes, open the throttle more on each downshift so that the engine doesn't slow you down so much.

A few years ago I bought a party pack - about 10 different pairs - off ebay, and tried them out until I found one I liked.

Downshifting to go faster... The power a combustion engine produces tails off sharply as the revs go down (this is unlike an electric motor, which can produce a lot of power even when it's going slowly). It depends on the bike, but peak power might be at 6k or 9k or even 11k revs. If you're only doing say 3k and you want to accelerate, then the best thing is to shift down while you open the throttle a snadge, so the motor's now at say 4k, and you're still doing the same speed. Now, when you open the throttle up, there a load more power on tap. As for how to go slower, the basic rule is use the brakes. That's what they're for. This is how I'd approach an ideal junction: 1) clutch in, release the throttle and engage the brakes (that all basically one action); 2) as I slow down approaching the junction, I gradually go down the gears. keeping the clutch in all the time If I'm planning to stop at the junction 3) just before stopping, I engage first gear; the clutch is still in. Now I'm all set up to start off again in 1st whenever I want. If I wanted to ride on through the junction (e.g. I'm turning left at a give way) 3) I engage the gear I'm planning to pull of in (normally 2nd, but it might be 3rd at a large roundabout) before reaching the junction 4) if the road is still clear, then I release the brakes, and more or less at the same time gently release the clutch to the bite point, adding a little throttle. The idea is to get the bike moving forward again powered by the motor; I don't want to coast round the junction without any power, as the bike won't be stable, but I don't want to open the throttle up and accelerate away like Rossi. 5) By the time I'm half way round the corner, I've gently let the clutch out and fully in gear Dunno if this help. Probably it just makes it seem a lot more complicated than it really is