Grumpy Old Git

It would be good to see you there Matty - it is not as though you have far to travel!

looking through the thread you have said: The plug is wet then later that it is dry? You have adjusted the two carb screws - why? Are they both back in their original positions? You have a weak spark then later a strong spark? Simple tests you can do:- 1. squirt about a 1/2 teaspoon of fuel into the cylinder and replace plug - Turn over and if it fires or tries to then nothing, you have a fuel issue - Skip to 4. 2. With the plug out, ignition on, check for spark as you gently push the bike forward in 2nd gear. Stop as soon as you see the spark and (using a plastic drinking straw, check that the piston is at Top Dead Centre (TDC) or just about there. {Rough Timing Check}. 3. With plug in, turn over with your hand over the exhaust - You should feel the pressure pulse from the engine. 4. Ensure plug is dry and re-fit. Turn over and check plug. If not wet, then no fuel getting into cylinder - check all lines, filters, etc. 5. If plug wet, then either contaminated fuel or incorrect mixture or timing out. Good luck!

Twentieth Century Blues - Noel Coward

Games Without Frontiers - Peter Gabriel

If there is enough room - otherwise as per Stu's suggestion.

Challenge accepted! To make it a real challenge, make sure you pitch your tent between Steve and Neil!!!

Sail - Awolnation

Everything Turns Grey - Agent Orange

Try again Mr Fro!!!!

Pleasant evening - shame there was only a few of us there. Not sure I want to pay £3.50p for a hotdog though

Listed in the Haynes Manual! If we knew where you are based, we could (possibly) offer to lend you a complete set iof tools.

We Are Glass - Gary Numan

To check chain tension, put bike on the sidestand, lean over from the other side putting your full weight on the bike and check (with your hand) how far the chain moves. Use this as a simple check along with spinning the wheel when on the centre stand to check for tight spots. To check for stretch or worn sprokets, see if you can pull the chain off the back of the rear sprocket at about the centre of the 'contact' area - Should be very little (if any) movement - if you can pull the chain back more than a tiny tad, then time for new chain and sproket set.

The ehaust in the advert is desinged to slide over the downpipe and is 'connected' by a clamp (similar to a 'hose-clip'). Unless the pipe is of the correct diameter on your bike, this will not be an easy job - also, is the mounting bracket in the correct place? If you are OK with the above, simply measure up the silencer against what you have fitted, mark where the downpipe needs to be cut and use a hacksaw (ensuring you cut at 90 degrees to the pipe).

Don't Waste Your Heart - Dixie Chicks

Neil never seems to have room in his tent! He seems to always want more! Yep, got to agree -pagyboi, long way on a '50'. Can you not 'team up' with someone from your area and come as a pillion?

Congrats Meg Chin up Miss Bex - Nerves are the hardest thing to try and control but... You will get there!

What a Job - Snoop Dogg

I was born early in the day!

Sunday 8th Jun 2014 Sunday 6th Jul 2014 Sunday 24th Aug 2014 Sunday 5th Oct 2014 Sunday 16th Nov 2014 Sunday 14th Dec 2014 (Dates subject to change)

BSA sidestands used to be available from most motorcycle auto-jumbles. New gaskets should cure the oil leaks (unless the metal is scored or warped) - I always used 'red' hermatite rather than the 'blue' for those gaskets. Seems like you are almost there with the 'project'. Will we be seeing it at the Rally?

Always worth a call (email) - I have got odd bits that way before.

Just checked on TMBF in anticipation of reading some Birthday Wishes from the members but........ F**k It!

No-one there!

Should never need to 'force' the pistons back in - steady pressure should be all that is required.