Grumpy Old Git

I hear you are coming as a ballet dancer this year!

Unless you are a miserable sod and come dressed as a chicken! We had a 'scoot' person (Actingstrange) turn up at t'rally last year in fancy dress (well a bin-bag liner cape, et.) so if he comes again, at least you can talk about pi$$ cans together until you fall over (about 7pm on Friday and earlier on Saturday). Fancy dress or not, I can guarantee you will enjoy it - even if we have to set Roy and Dave on you to achieve it! EDIT: Oh - and 'Karioke' too! (check out the pictures in the 'gallery').

Lemon Song - Led Zeppelin So why do you keep coming back on this thread Vicki?

Now 'Hermatite' is a different topic to discuss.

Best tip I can give is to look where you want to go and, as the road starts to straighten out, accellerate gently. Keep this up and you will gain confidence which, in turn, will mean you will go faster (without really noticing). Add to this the correct positioning before and during the turn and you are there!

A friend of mine bought an old Jota which was being advertised as a 'non-runner'. Conversations with the owner revealled that he bought it some years before and had 'swapped out just about everything' but could not get it to fire up. My freind offered £800 (asking price was £900) and subsequntly bought it. Cost him another couple of hundred to hire a van and collect it from Perthshire. Went round to help him check it over and apart from various rusty bits, it all looked OK but - No spark. Ran a wire from the breaker feed to the battery - kicked it over and..... Spark! Checked cable run and found that the feed wire in the multiconnector just below the front top part of the frame was not inserted correctly - pushed in to the 'click' - reconnected and... We have life! Ran rough for a few minutes than all was OK! That was about 2 years ago - He sold it last month for £2,400 having done nothing else apart from keeping it clean! That's the way to do it!

The first step - removing the cam cover - is 'easy' and will enable a check of the cam operation and chain tension. A decent garage should be able to do this check for you quite cheaply (ask around your area). Personally I would just do it myself (Haynes or OEM Workshop manual and a few decent tools). Removing the head and barrell is also quite easy provided you follow the steps in the manual. Then it is very easy to check the big end (and small end) play. If (and only if) it is a big end issue, then the engine will need to be stripped down/split to allow the bearing to be swapped out - Not so easy if you are not 'comfortable' using tools, etc. BUT this should still be cheaper (and less 'risky') than buying a replacement engine. Good luck with this.

My Life - Jamiroquai

Take Me AWAY - Blue Oyster Cult

Waterflow over the bottom of the front wheel causing it to spin - either that or a hampster!

Ok - You have taken the first positive step. Well done. 2nd step is to report this to your HR (if you have one) or, write down your concern/complaint and send this to the bully stating that you are njot happy with his/her conduct (keep a dated copy). 3rd step - get an appointment to see your GP and talk this through with him/her as it is affecting your health. Ask the GP to write a short statement re this and copy to the bully. Hopefully you will have 'solved' the problem by the end of step 2. If you have exhausted all the above and still no change, consult a solicitor. Good luck (and keep your chin up!).

All done - Took over an hour and a half to complete! Initially, I thought I had got something wrong as no air was coming through - Then after about 3 refils of the resevoir, AIR bubles, after that it was realitively quick. Thanks for all the tips guys!

I'm sure someone will loan you a pair! (not me though - LOL)

My turn to ask (as it is something I have never done before). I have fitted riser/pullbacks on my 1250 Bandit to improve my riding position (bad back) and although the suppliers of the riser/pullbacks state that it is not 'necessary' to swap out the brake hose for a longer one, the mod has made the pipe quite tight (even after removing the wire guide). I have ordered a new braided (longer) upper hose from Wemoto but on trying to gain info on how to carry out the replacement (g@@gle), I've been unsuccesful apart from the (really helpful) comment 'you need a specialist vacuum pump to drain / refill and bleed an ABS system'. I am only replacing the top hose (from the front brake master cylinder/resovoir) to the manifold (front of the frame). So come on guys and gals - Can I do this? If so, how? If this is really a 'pig of a job', then I'll just get the local garage to do it. NB. Very recently replaced (by bleeding) the brake fluid - No problems with that job!

All I have to Give - Backstreet Boys

Housey jobs for t'wife!

It is visible both from the main road (A420) and the road to the village. There are gateways you can pull in off the road. There is even a track up to the folly (if you are adventurous - Not recommended for a standard motorcycle) from Stanford Road.

You obviously spotted her approach and assumed she would pull out and moved over into the right hand lane, slowing down in preparation for her manouvre. This is a daily occurence for bikers - expect it to happen and adjust BEFORE it happens and you will live to ride another day.

There are other threads on tyres (including PR3's). Personal experience is that the PR3's are better than the original sport/tourer tyres on the 1250. I've no experience of the PR4 though.

Mine 'buzzes' but that is down to the ABS!

Sounds to me like a timing issue.

No she does not! I work to pay for her, the house, the kids, the damage, etc, etc, etc! (But I still love her )

Having just forked out squidloads for the repair to the Volvo (wifey damage - bless her!), I now have to fork out for a new front tyre (bleb forming on the outer wall). F**k It!!!!

Or even for £125 (total) for the whole two weeks!

What problems do you have?