Foxy Stoat seeks Pig

That's an issue with the smaller Suzuki engine, you just need to identify the right bolt which is easy if you refer to the manual. If you get it wrong just put everything back the right way round. No harm done. That's an helicoil that's come out Indeed, i could helicoil a new M14 thread or just replace the sump but the exhaust pipes run right underneath the the sump so i cant't take the sump off. If i helicoil with teh sump in place it will be awkward to reach.

Paging the Jim Henson Creations team .... one of your subjects is loose . it was a bad week

Mine is due but after this https://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=65266 I'm a little reluctant

Erm yeah so probably so to fess up The reason why the 'faulty' gauge was not going down is because I had filled up only two days before hand. Doh!! In my defence, if there is any, I have been very tired, doing overtime, chronic tooth ache, and taking far to many painkillers. I still can't remember filling up but the receipt in my wallet states otherwise.....

Wouldn't have a clue, will need to do some research. I usually keep it topped up with fuel so not really a massive problem, more annoying than anything.

Had it since Sept 2016. Never had an issue before, level always dropped as expected.

I filled up last Thursday and my fuel gauge has only gone down one bar. Now it would be nice if this was a true reflection of my fuel consumption but I know its simply not true. Its a digital gauge and it was fine until the last fill up. Any ideas what could have gone wrong and how I would go about fixing it? Thanks all.

Useful write up, thanks. I'm actually looking at replacing my £50 lid and a Caberg Duke 2 was top my list and within my budget. Did you still get fogging issues with the pinlock fitted?

On closer inspection it looks like the little flappy thing that moves when you insert the key is no more. Probably what is causing the issue.

If I use graphite powder would it be worthwhile to try and flush out any crap in there with WD before introducing the graphite powder?

Carbon is an interesting idea too. Cover the key and put into the ignition I assume.

Cheers both. I don't have any fully synth engine oil so I will try gt85 as a short term fix.

I have noticed over the last few weeks that turning the key is not as smooth as it used to be or as smooth as I would like it to be. I have cans of the usual suspects knocking around WD40, Silicone oil, GT85, ACF50 etc but is it as easy as just pointing the straw into the barrel and start spraying? Also is there a preferred lubricant I should be using?? Thanks all.

I have been tempted to drill mine out, just to get some sort of noise from it. My worry is when it comes to MOT time though.

Finally got the bike back on the road this weekend. Thought it was ok last week but after couple of rides I noticed that the right disc was scorching hot, too hot to touch. I noticed the caliper when bolted on wasn't aligned properly so the pads were constantly rubbing on the disc. Ordered another caliper during the week, cleaned it up like new and fitted It yesterday, also had no problems bleeding the lines this week. I also ordered some shorter helicoils and have done a proper job on the stripped thread so I have a spare working caliper now. I now feel confident enough to take on the back caliper seals but waiting for some dryer weather for that. Car is staying at home this week and i'm back on the bike, so all is well

I wear glasses and have done away with my pinlock this winter. It's dark to and from work at the moment and the glare from car headlights is a real pain.

Other than the front sprocket issue I had its been a solid first bike for me. . In fact the only things that have gone wrong are down to my novice mechanical knowledge, but I'm learning. Plenty fast enough when I need it to be

From past experience when i first had my FZ6 check the front sprocket nut is in place and the locking washer tabs are folded over correctly.

: Calipers were fixed back on bike so couldn't try this. Assuming I have understood correctly.

Method above seems to have worked. Many many thanks. The YouTube video I saw last night said to open valve and keep pumping, hence why I was wasting so much fluid. So all seems fine now. Maybe a little test run before taking it tomorrow though. Think I will leave the back brake for another weekend. Too stressful

Haven't bled master cylinder but can see an air coming up when I press the lever. Sometimes fluid will shoot up too.

Starting bleeding the brakes. There is pressure now but I can still pull the lever all the way back to the handlebar grip. So its still not how it was before. Im using an easy bleed tube which has some kind of valve on it. Only thing is im getting through a lot of fluid, as in have to keep topping it up. Ive used almost 500ml already, is this normal?? Ive just been to buy a 1 litre bottle in case in need it. When I started there were some huge air bubble in the tube, they have gone now. Do I just keep going doing both sides until the lever firms up some more?

will try white spirits when job is done. those mats look quite handy too.

Excellent so there is hope I could get it working again tomorrow. I will do some YouTube research tonight. Then next weekend maybe tackle the back brake which ironically is the one I can hear binding the most. It was a pretty messy job removing the calipers. Brake fluid on the driveway. Wife not happy. What works best to clean it.