Foxy Stoat seeks Pig

Yea pretty much my worry. If they are stuck halfway then I'm in a world of s**t, maybe some kind of no more nails type adhesive, should give me a bit longer to slide the grip onto the bar.

So the cheap hairspray fix was unsuccessful. I found the proper grip glue out and that did take hold either. But I think part of the problem is the throttle tube seems too thin. So I may need to bulk it up a bit with some tape so at least there will be something for the glue to grab on too. Also out of grip glue now so is super glue worth a try?? Need to sort it tomorrow ideally.

Just a word of warning I have found hairspray take a long time to dry out so spray fit and leave for ages I have this problem. Catches me every time I go for a night out and it's windy weather. if I only I had enough hair to be able to use it

I do have some proper grip glue somewhere but annoyingly cant find it. Will give hairspray a go I guess.

I also wonder if it has been bodged before.....not my doing this time Anyway I hammered an 8mm hex bit in just enough to give it enough pressure to loosen the bar end. It's free now and I may be able to reuse it when new grips are on. I have noticed there was no glue at all on the left side, is this normal? I was planning on using glue on both sides. Actually it's hair spray not glue. Now I just need to remove the grip from the throttle tube but that's a job for tomorrow.

Unfortunately don't have an impact driver. I could probably get hold of 7mm hex. Just found it strange they are different sizes

Finally got round to sorting my relay out today for my heated grips. All seems ok there so I've bought new grips aswell, as right hand one didn't work and grips are worn. I've removed the right hand bar end, no problems at all. But the left wont budge and i'm worried about using too much force and rounding the bolt head(if it isn't already). What is odd is that that right hand one came off using a 8mm hex. the 8mm hex is too big for the left and a 6mm is too small (just spinning). I'm not completely sure its even a hex, could be a torx. Its pretty mangled and corroded so difficult to see. Was pleased I got the relay set up and now this. Any way to free these bolts up? even if I have to buy a replacement I need it off before I can put new grip on. Thanks all!!

Avoidance I was 1kph under the target speed so got a minor but he said no need to do it again. Emergency stop was spot on.

Thanks for that, hopefully made good choice then. Thought i may as welll get them changed before the hard rain comes later in the year.

I have ordered Michelin PR3s and planning on taking the wheels off and taking them to the garage to replace the tyres. Couple of reasons: cost £12 a tyre If I take wheel only, also its a good opportunity for me to give the wheels, chain adjusters etc a good clean. Will it be ok for me remove the sprocket and carrier and keep it at home for a clean or does it need to be kept with the wheel for balancing? I have seen some decent reviews of the PR3s and as I ride through the winter months thought I would get some decent wet grip tyres.

My glasses and visor used to fog badly. Pinlock has helped a bit and only breathing through my nose. Always have the vents open too. Unfortunately just something i have to put uo with it seems, unless i get contacts.

Well done, remember the feeling well. Just one more step to go

I have rechecked the wring and connections. The only potential problem between the diagram and what maybe I should have done is wire the negative grips lead directly to the battery negative, then run a separate earth lead from battery negative to 85 on the relay. Currently I have the earth lead spliced from the negative grips lead. If that makes any sense!!

Definitely. Also worth mentioning that the wire on the right side grip has come clean away from the grip, so that needs replacing. Not sure if that would be causing this issue though.

It was never going to be straightforward was it? I have it all wired up, but the 10a fuse in the grips keeps blowing. When the ignition is off you cant switch on the grips, which is how I want it. When I turn the ignition one notch the turn the grips on it get flashing lights on the grips. These are R&G grips by the way. Then when I start engine and switch on the grips I momentarily get one light then nothing. This is where the fuse blows. I have them wired to the number plate light as the switched wire. The number plate light is still working fine. http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy283/martash2009/Relay.jpg This is the guide I have followed. I'm all out of fuses so any advice appreciated. Thanks.

I've got two. One I keep in the bike for when parking at work, the other kept on the drive, just quicker that way(or it should be). I have a JDC alarm disk lock, I have taken the batteries out though which is fine no issue with the lock mechanism and the pin goes through the brake disc nicely. The other is a Mammoth something or other and is getting to be a real PITA. It's taking me longer and longer to unlock the bloody thing. I won't be buying another one of those. Oh and definitely get a reminder cable. About £2 on Ebay.

So after many many months, finally i will be installing a relay switch tomrrow (weather permitting). I have all the bits and pieces ready to go. Slightly hesitant though after my last spot of home mechanics cost me a trip to the garage, new fork tubes, over £200 and bike off the road for over week What is the worst that can happen with a harmless little relay switch.......

Nice one.

Picked up the forks last night, managed to get them on (in?) the bike. Front fairing is back on as well as front wheel. Then It got dark and wet so have to stop. Couldn't spend any time on it tonight so now have got to refit fender, caliper holders, calipers and pads and I should be back on two wheels soon. Sounds like I did a proper job of mincing one of the old seals too. Mechanic said it was a right pig to free up. Job well done all round

Thanks for that. have taken a look and very detailed. I don't think this little episode will put me off all tinkering with my bike altogether, someone needs to keep the helpful folk of the Pitstop forum busy don't they Just very frustrating now I'm off the road. Hopefully get it sorted this week

i failed miserably with the softly softly bit. Hopefully i haven't damaged the bottom tubes where the seals sit Can you explain what you mean by drift the new seal. Not that i'm ever considering attempting the job again but i'm still keen to understand. Basically, you put the new seal into place.....and then put the old seal on top of it and gently tap the old seal, which in turn pushes the new seal down into position....so, the old seal takes the beating from the hammer and cushions the blows to the new seal.... ah I see, noted for next time I think you do the same with installing new bearings.

No doubt. New tubes arrive at garage tomorrow and should get rebuilt forks back Monday/Tuesday next week. Will probably leave it to the Saturday to put them back on the bike though. Give myself a full day so not rushing to do it after work when I'm tired and hungry.....at least that would be the sensible thing to do.

Previous owner not to blame in this instance, it's the current owner that is the problem.

Gentle hand could be tricky, Ape hand more like

i failed miserably with the softly softly bit. Hopefully i haven't damaged the bottom tubes where the seals sit Can you explain what you mean by drift the new seal. Not that i'm ever considering attempting the job again but i'm still keen to understand.