fastbob

Nothing rubs together, that's what the bearing is for , see my post with the pictures.

When you say forced the hub on do you mean that it wouldn't fit on the spindle ( axle ) or that it wouldn't go into the drum ? Can you take the wheel out and do a side by side comparison picture of both hubs ? The aforementioned spacer goes in-between the two bearings to even out the force applied by the spindle nut . Leaving it out would not be good for the bearings but it wouldn't cause the hub not to turn . I'm beginning to suspect that this isn't the right hub . Remember that CGs have been in production since 1976 in many different countries and im not including the millions of chinese rip offs. Have a look at this picture, the only part of this hub ( brake plate ) that should be touching anything is the bit I have highlighted. This should be resting on the inner , moving , part of the right hand bearing and when out of the bike the hub should spin freely in this position .

Stu is right, if the brake IS stuck that's one thing BUT there shouldn't be any movement of the hub either. Let me dig out my CG manual and have a think about it tomorrow .Might need some more pictures including some with the thing apart again.

Apology accepted ,Id rather not kiss your bottom and I'm definitely keeping my jumper on in this weather.

I looked in to that for mine Bob - those Chinese clones don't fit right - apparently the sleeve is a few mm bigger than a pukka Japanese model and would need nipping down on a lathe to fit the crankcase. Shame, oh well a simple re bore and piston it is then.

£500 ? Someone's taking the piss . You could bolt one of these on in an afternoon with a few basic tools . The CG is probably the easiest four stroke bike in the world to work on because its got no cam chain or overhead cam shaft to worry about. Alternatively you could buy a genuine Honda oversize piston and rings and find a back street engineer specializing in rebores . Just give them the barrel and the new piston and they will know what to do . They will probably charge you no more than £50.

Never used compressors or sleeves. As long as there's a reasonably smooth taper on the liners the rings will go in with care. From what I can gather from net,the Triumph barrels are integral to the upper crankcase so pistons will go in from the top so a conventional ring clamp would work.. Hyabusa barrels are separate so pistons in from below hence your use of jubilee clips? So that's pistons with con rods attached going in from the top and then the bottom ends being bolted to the crank shaft then ? So that means that the crank case has to be split . If I've got that right then " Valve stem replacement without removing head " has now become " Triumph Triple total engine rebuild " this reminds me of something...

How do you afford to do this and how do you get the time off work ? Why the title " just another ride " ? you make it sound like an everyday chore .

Here's some inspiration

Are you thinking of carrying a passenger in this sidecar ? Anyway there are plenty of big bore kits available at ridiculously low prices . Obviously they are made in China but so are YBRs for that matter so you do take a chance on the quality. If you are going to ask a 125 to haul a sidecar you will have to change the gearing and sacrifice quite a bit of speed . Have you considered how exactly you are going to attach a sidecar to a bike that doesn't have much of a frame to bolt to ? It's also worth considering changing the tyres to square profile ones so that's another expense. I also know that sidecars need to be very carefully set up to make the outfit handle safely so some form of adjustment needs to be incorporated into any design . Then there are bound to be a mass of mot regulations to look at but I don't have any idea about that . Lots to think about but an interesting idea.

It's actually got a centrifugal clutch that looks not unlike a drum brake assembly. Bob weights fly outwards upon rotation and friction pads engage with the outer drum , twist and go in other words. See pictures In my other post.

Good point .

Right then , I think you can see the bad news AND the good news in one screenshot. Only trouble with second hand is there's a chance its also knackered but worth a go

Seems like its f**ked! You will somehow need to get it to a garage. Do you have breakdown cover with home start? If not buy some, wait a week or 2 then call them to get it taken to a motorcycle garage. That's not very helpful or funny . Not a very nice way to treat a new forum member seeking practical advice.

Exactly. I'm going to jeep the cover up as it's a good deterrent as people don't park in the space when my bike is there. With the cover up, people will think a bike is there. And you can go and just sit in if you want to be on your own for a while

Same here, care and lots of oil.

You've come a very long way from thinking about stuffing rope down the spark plug holes ! Keep up the good work ! I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say that this is the best mechanical thread we have seen here for ages. Better than the tripe on the telly.

They fold down flat when empty, well almost.

Some of these covers come with expander bolts in order fix the frame down, which appear to have the holes int eh frame set already. I assume it could be the same logic in regards to filling the holes? I've got the tools to make the holes etc and I can buy the recommended bolts/anchors if the expander bolts don't make the cut. Hmm. Didn't think this would be an issue. It's legally on the deeds on our property. I'm guessing it's a consideration I need to take? Well actually I was sort of joking but I do know personally of one chap who was made to remove one of these covers from his front garden following complaints from the neighbours. I am fairly sure it was a council property though so I wouldn't worry.

Have you got planning permission ?

It's difficult to get up and start the job until the caffeine has worked its way up to the brain. Crickey, how do you take your coffee then ?

Especially if you have just ground in all the valves so it almost certainly needs re shimming now . Things might be looking up again .

There's no bedding in to do because the rings have not been touched , our friend has so far focused all his attention on the valves and guides.

Just for my own information, what is the process of carrying out a compression test ? The bit that's puzzling me is why you need to accurately measure TDC . I don't know but I would have thought that you simply attach a compression gauge , rotate the engine THROUGH TDC and read off the highest pressure that is indicated . Surely the highest reading will occur at TDC anyway . If you are going to determine TDC with a straw or depth gauge before attaching a compression gauge , how do you then create any pressure in the combustion chamber to measure ?

I really don't want to spoil anyone's evening but I'm thinking piston rings and bores especially now that the ridge of carbon has been removed from the top of the stroke . I do hope I'm wrong.