fastbob

Oops , the 7 isn't in the picture, its all the bits above part 15 .

Right then , I've had a look and you are quite right, there is no fuel tap in the normal sense and again you are quite correct in saying that there is no reserve selector either. There is what is described as an Autocock which is the thing you have outlined in red . This device, based on its shape almost certainly contains a diaphragm that switches the fuel on when it is activated by a vacuum from the carburetor. From what I have seen so far, I don't think this thing can be opened up to replace the diaphragm. It seems that it must be replaced as a unit . So , provided you didn't pay too much for the tank and it's got the autocock still in it , that's that sorted then . However, even if this thing is stuck wide open, as I said the carb sill has a float and needle valve that controls the fuel flow into the carburetor float bowl. While I was looking, I was surprised to find that there does not appear to be a choke on the carb , instead there is a Starter Valve so that might be stuck ( see pics ) So anyway what I am basically saying is that a faulty autocock on its own will not cause over revving and spitting flames on it's own . http://i.imgur.com/S8esdqd.png see parts 15 & 7 maybe this thing is stuck . Also as previously mentioned by Tango, have a very good look at part 13 , this is the main diaphragm, check it for holes .http://i.imgur.com/gL3SwDJ.png

It will spit flames if its running RICH, it's the un burnt fuel that's igniting. Yeah I know, hence the diaphragm being broken and stuck open, pouring LOADS of fuel in. NO . There is a fuel metering device in the carb ( assuming this bike even has a carb and its not fuel injection ) consisting of a float and needle valve . A diaphragm in a fuel tap is operated by a vacuum from the carb intake . If a fuel tap diaphragm is damaged i.e it has a hole in it then it will not operate and you will get NO fuel. I'll tell you what , may i respectfully suggest that you get a Haynes manual called Motorcycle Basics and have a good read on what things are called, what they do and how they work . Once you understand the basic principles of things it will be easier to see what's wrong and put it right. I'm going to look at a parts list for this bike to see if it even has a petrol tap because there isn't one in your picture. There must be reserve function on this bike so it has to have a petrol tap . .

Yeah but a leak could still cause the idle to fluctuate? The two issues might be unrelated, which is why I suggest it may be sticking open once it’s been opened up. I should have mentioned but it has been sat for a few months. However it spits flames so surely an air leak will cause it to run lean right? The problem wasnt there before christmas, but is now and i havent even touched the carb It will spit flames if its running RICH, it's the un burnt fuel that's igniting.

Yeah the diaphragm in the tap is the one that supposedly is broken now. So I ordered a second hand tank off ebay so i can use the tap off that. You bought an entire petrol tank to get a fuel tap diaphragm ? Seriously ? You need to show us exactly what you are talking about. No way can I see how a faulty fuel tap is going to cause any of the symptoms that you described in the original post . By the way , I can't even see a fuel tap in the parts diagram that you have posted. There's a fuel outlet and a filter but no tap, automatic or manual to be seen . You need to help us to help you.

Very general advice, I have encountered front wheel related handling issues that are actually caused by BACK wheel issues such as worn swinging arm or wheel bearings . Cause and effect can sometimes swap places especially on bikes . Have both wheels checked for balance.

What diaphragm do you mean ? The one in the carb or the one in the fuel tap ? The red line is around the fuel filter. Don't worry, it takes a while to learn all the correct terminology.

I sprayed it on the joints of the throttle bodies to see if it bubbled, that’s what I was advised to do when I had a fluctuating idle anyway . Ok , but its an intake problem so its sucking IN unwanted air not blowing it out .

I thought it was Easy Start that you sprayed to detect intake leaks . The idea being that if there's a leak the revs go up.

End of thread , I'm not getting a Hawk , not at £ 700 , can't see a profit .

Ah yes , I remember air helmets . Cheap too , A £30 fine and a telling off as I recall. Not very warm in the winter though .

Hmmm, yep those fuses are definitely wrong

Crikey , looks like I've Sticker Bombed me toolbox without even realising what I was doing !http://i.imgur.com/RtYI0sV.jpg

Not as much as I hate these silly buggers who scribble all over their bikes with a Sharpie pen . I love being old and I really love farting

See also Non stop Wales and Beulah to Tregaron in Ride Reports and Pictures .

Choke stuck ?

There are two cheap ways of making rusty nuts and bolts look much better. One way is to buff them up to a silver finish with a rotary wire brush and then lacquer them . Another technique borrowed from the world of plastic model making is to paint them satin black and then " dry brush " them using a tiny amount of silver paint on an almost dry paint brush using a flicking motion . Neither of these solutions are particularly durable but after you've worked so hard , the colour of rust just doesn't belong on the bike. I'm glad to see that you have no plans to sell . I had one of my best biking summers in years last year on mine . Here's a pic to hopefully inspire you . Have you seen my thread in the touring section entitled Scotland no motorways ? http://i.imgur.com/UM1BjSf.jpg

Lovely, now don't go dropping this one !

I've got one, great helmet. My only complaint is that the sunvisor doesn't come down far enough so riding along with the main visor open and the sun visor down, I get an annoying breeze in my eyes. My old helmet had a longer sun visor so I didn't have that problem Ha! Same complaint with my Shark Vision.

Maybe it needs oil full stop . A squeak is a sound usually generated by friction and you don't get a lot of friction in an environment where oil is present . Before you get carried away and start stripping things see if you can get another person to pinpoint exactly where the sound is coming from while you pump the forks . If the forks were so lacking in fork oil that they were squeaky I'm sure you would notice a complete lack of damping when you were riding the bike . Good luck, let us know what you find.

£52.92 I make it , not bad at all for genuine Triumph. The pattern ones I suggested were £122 Must have got that wrong,sorry.

Back to the original post that invited opinions from an aesthetic viewpoint, I think it would look shit .

I did this job a few month back and reused the gasket with copper coat Ive spent 4 hours so far stripping the bike back down because the head gasket has started leaking Get A NEW gasket and save doing the same job twice! copper coat on a head gasket ? not heard of that .

£52.92 I make it , not bad at all for genuine Triumph. The pattern ones I suggested were £122

Wow ! Regarding my previous post which shows an example of GOOD customer service ( unlike the original post about VERY BAD customer service ) I thought you might like to know the final outcome. I've just received my DVD, The Gathering Storm staring Albert Finney and oddly enough featuring one of Ronnie Barker's last appearances. In addition as a good will gesture the seller has included The Ipcress File and Brief Encounter AND an unopened greeting card featuring a classic scene from The Graduate. What a contrast to the rude tight fisted ar*eholes who won't send me a £2.50 brake switch. I've got one anyway now for £1.95 delivered on time . Its nice when things go right for a change