fastbob

Keep soldiering on !

I saw an episode of Wheeler Dealers once where a cylinder head with valves installed was tested by a specialist for any leaks . It was placed on a device that consisted of a flat table with a rubber mat on it . A vacuum was applied for a period of time and two readings were taken to determine the efficiency of the valves . I think they were also checking for porousness because it was an old car . I bet if you Google around you might find a back street shop that does this . In fact , the same place could almost certainly have a look at the bores as well .

It might be worth remembering that the original intention here was to cure a smoky bike that turned out to be down on compression and not to blueprint he entire engine . Those bearing shells look pretty good to me . Yes , a click test wouldn't have been a bad idea but I would be inclined bolt the rods back up again once the cylinders have had a light hone . I have to say that dressing white metal bearing surfaces with anything containing abrasive particles goes against my instincts. My thinking is that if the shells had noticeable scoring then there would also have to be room for whatever did the damage to have got between the shell and the journal. As there is no significant scoring surely it follows that the bearing tolerances are most likely to be ok ? After all Leener did not report any rumbling or knocking before the project began . So , if it ain't broke ......

Is the gouge going to be visible on the completed bike ? Won't whatever made the gouge still be hiding the mark upon reassembly ?

I can't be of any assistance here , my bikes plenty fast enough for me. Didn't I read somewhere that you have to actually lower the compression to get the best out of a supercharger ? I might be wrong .

Surely if you remove shallow scoring with wet and dry this means effectivly lowering the surrounding surface to match the depth of the scoring. Would this not increase the likelihood of excessive play in the bearings ? I am by no means an expert but I would have thought that a little scoring might be better left alone. I am keen to know what the thinking is here . PS do you mean the shells rather than the caps ?

Regarding end gaps, you have to take a top ring ( I think ) and insert it in the bore . Make sure its level and measure the gap between the ends with a feeler gauge .

There are a few on eBay at around £50 - £60

I'm not suggesting that its a knock off . As far as I know Yamaha YBR 125s are made in China .

Well spotted First time I have seen one without a max line on It is a Chinese bike.

You don't need a syringe, just pour it out of the bottle . Don't forget to leave room for the rubber diaphragm and take the precaution of covering the tank with a cloth in case of spillage . When you open the new bottle of brake fluid make two small holes in the foil cap for easy pouring . Like this

I think the problem might be that there is no MAX marking on the reservoir in question. Could do with a little top up . The main idea is to keep the bottom of the container covered with at least three quarters of an inch of brake fluid .

There's no substitute for CCs !

Great looking bike but apart from seven too many Ninja stickers

A lot of work to do but very cheap

Or buy a bike with no engine and stick yours in then flog that !

As above,know when to cut your losses before you spent more on it than you would recover. Used motors on the bay starting at £200-400,pick one that has some kind of warranty,fit it and sell it(which was the plan all along?) You can then sell your engine as spares. I also looked into this option on your behalf at the weekend but it does seem a shame to quit now after having gone to so much effort already.

This is essentially the answer to your own question , see my main post.

They most certainly do ! I don't think you need to mess around with fuel substitutes , the missing fuel has either soaked into the ground or has filled the crank case. My ER5 did this and there are numerous reports of this happening on the ER5 forum. I suggest that you check the fuel tap diaphragm and replace if necessary.the main culprit will be the carb float valve needles . Even if they are new , the tiniest fragment of dirt lurking behind them will cause flooding . The best way to fix this for certain is to remove the carbs and take out the floats and needles then blow out the debris by applying an air line to the valve seats while covering the opposite one .

Can I highly recommend this book . I hope you're not in for a shock when it comes to prices as these things have become very desirable to restorers and collectors these days from what I can gather.

For your consideration .

So are we .

Just dip the key in engine oil . It doesn't actually need to be fully synthetic, not where one drop in a lock is concerned.

Regarding the valve timing situation , wouldn't it be the case that if you rotated the crank 360 degrees to TDC again then the cams would now be facing the other way ? Surely the reason that you haven't bent a valve is that you DID get it right after all ? Don't forget that with a 4 stroke there's an exhaust stroke and a compression stroke both of which pass through TDC but with the valves on any given cylinder in different positions . I would also add that when I suggested that you go the extra mile and examine the bores and ring gap I was under the mistaken impression that the barrels lifted off the crankcase. I had heard of integral cylinders but I didn't know that Triumph were following that practice. Looks a bit like penny pinching to me ( disposable engines ? )

CMSL diagrams are great for this sort of thing aren't they . Did you know that Cradley Kawasaki do a similar thing on their website for every Kawasaki ( obviously ) ?