fastbob

Most proper motorcycle shops will stock fuel pipe, why not take a sample from the bits left on the bike. Try to get black neoprene rather than this new fangled green translucent stuff. It's alright to begin with but I've found that it goes hard quite quickly.

Well its a reincarnation of the original style CG so why reverse the gearbox ? Perverse behavior on the part of Honda. It's race shift like the GP bikes. Faster than standard CG125 Didn't know that, thanks.

I agree , drilling the slide is stated as optional in the kit contents so probably best not to bother. As I say just go through everything again just to be sure the slide can rise and fall smoothly. If its ok then I guess there's nothing else for it but to get that screw extracted and replaced with a new one. The only remaining thing you could try is to lower the main needle one notch by re positioning the circlip up a notch .

I didnt drill the hole as i dont have a drill in my workshop currently. and thank you i will give these things a try. Im sure everything was seated again properly, i checked the slide before i reinstalled it and it appeared normal. Hold on , don't drill any holes ! Unless the Sigma kit also says that you need to . If it does then there should be a drill BIT in the kit . I looked at the DYNOJET instructions so the Sigma kit could be different. To be quite clear, if the Sigma kit says to drill a hole to make an existing hole larger and you didn't do so that could explain the slow drop in revs. If you do have to drill use a HAND drill not an electric drill and do it carefully . Good luck.

Ok, so its a CV carb . I've read the dynojet instructions . Did you drill out the little hole in the slide ? When you assembled the slide , needle , diaphragm and spring did you ensure everything was properly seated and all in the right order ? If you're not sure , do it again . A good test is remove the air filter and if you can get your hand inside the airbox , push the slide up with a finger and let it go . It should snap back down again pretty smoothly and quickly but not instantly. The reason I ask is that I suspect that the engine is not returning to idle due to an air leak, an obstructed slide, a kinked spring or the needle not seated . Give all this a go before blaming that mixture screw.

I can't see why you didn't go ahead and install the dynajet kit anyway, most of what you pay for is in the shape of the needle and the appropriate jet might cure rich running. As I have said , the pilot air screw might not play as big a part as you believe. put the stage 2 jet kit in, it runs without chugging now at all RPM ranges from my test ride this evening. However when i rev the bike it takes almost double the time for the revs to return to idle. must be mixture again but i cant do anything as the screw is totaled. it idles consistently but sometimes it sounds a little choppy other than that its fine and a usable bike. Don't be jumping to any conclusions just yet have a good read of the Dynajet troubleshooting guide . I'll have a look to see what sort of carb it is before offering any further suggestions.

Rather than check the float levels, have you checked the fuel levels ? This involves using pieces of clear tubing to form U bends but you can only do it on carbs that have drain screws and spouts on the float bowls.Could be that the bike is just drinking fuel a bit faster than the bows are filling up. This could also point to a partially blocked fuel tap or internal fuel filter. This can sometimes be made worse by fitting additional in line fuel filters .

Before you go and snap something off , what makes you think these clocks are designed to be prized apart ? Having said that, and having looked at some pictures, I reckon I would start by removing any visible screws from the back to get a look inside then take it from there. If the back covers come off you should find a plastic "skeleton" that the fronts are probably also attached to . They have to come apart I guess or there would be no way to change the bulbs but the parts diagram suggests that the clocks themselves are sealed units .

Lack of fuel due to a partially blocked internal fuel filter ?

Well its a reincarnation of the original style CG so why reverse the gearbox ? Perverse behavior on the part of Honda.

Well yes , its definitely a legit Japanese Honda so that's got to be how the gearbox is supposed to be . Perverse.

I'd rather not as I've spent a substantial amount of money on these parts and the aim is to improve the performance as much as possible as I'm going to have the bike for at least another year and a half; also learn along the way. I can't see why you didn't go ahead and install the dynajet kit anyway, most of what you pay for is in the shape of the needle and the appropriate jet might cure rich running. As I have said , the pilot air screw might not play as big a part as you believe.

This is a pilot air screw and is only responsible for slow running and idle above that and the main jet kicks in . If you couldn't move it it's a fair bet that it is set at roughly the right number of turns out . I know that Dynajet instructions specify a certain setting but how close is this to the standard setting ? So if the bike runs ok you might be ok to just leave it alone for now . If you do decide to have it drilled to accept an extractor then make sure whoever you take it to really knows what they are doing. This is a pretty delicate process requiring great precision that might be beyond the scope of an ordinary mechanic.I can recommend this company but please bear in mind that it is a one man operation and Graham is now semi retired.http://i.imgur.com/4Pt892E.png

Well look what I found on this very forum..http://i.imgur.com/bnHGtfR.png and here's the reply I posted back then. This one looks a lot more like the parts in question and definitely suggests that the spring goes in after the stopper. You will have to work backwards through pit stop posts to page 5 entitled Help!! to find the full thread ( April 24 ).http://i.imgur.com/FTVKP36.png

Great, try to get some close ups of any plates or stickers that indicate the country of origin as well as any gear position markings cast into the engine. I do recall a thread on here a long time ago regarding a reversed action gearbox but I can't recall the outcome.

Patchy Chinglish or not I somehow doubt that even the worst of owners handbooks would not show a clear picture or diagram of exactly where the oil drain plug is located.....ok ignore that statement, I've just seen the owners handbook for the Mash QM 125, that is very vague so all is forgiven.http://i.imgur.com/m4Kk2kC.png Could even be wrong by the looks of it, I would have thought it was nearer the front.

You get the ideahttp://i.imgur.com/WoH5KEW.png note OHV , not typical of the CG. Manufacturer is Atlas Honda I think.

What ? Please don't try to change gear with the plug and spring removed. Why would you even think of doing that? This is an important part of the gearbox , it stops the selector drum going round too far. If you leave it out all the strain will be applied to the selector forks . OK , yes the gearbox might still work but its just not a good idea to mess with things . Tip, when you put it back I think it would be wise to have the bike in 2nd or 3rd gear as this may make it easier to locate.

They do some sporty paint jobs for the deluxe. It's like the shell suit 80's all over again. Did you find the sales pitch though ? The wording is priceless.

Sorry I don't know how to post a link but if you can find this image and then go to the website have a read of the sales pitch. Enjoy.http://i.imgur.com/TFB5rJQ.png hmmm. Now which on would I choose.....

Alternatively one could just get a proper motorcycle. Try to avoid anything with multiple design flaws . This is my proper motorcycle.http://i.imgur.com/25POB07.jpg

There is an alternative fix for a broken bleed nipple and that's a bleed bolt. This is simply a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple built in.http://i.imgur.com/otBgi5R.png like this.

If anyone's interested in original style CGs google Pakwheels cg 125 . It seems to be a gumtree type selling website based in Pakistan. What's remarkable is the apparently immaculate condition of the CGs for sale . I think they are home produced models . Go to images and check out the one with a full protective cover that seemingly stays on the bike when you ride it ! In other examples it appears to be the practice to remove the tank and panels to keep them from wear and tear and then put them back on to sell the bike . Keeping the original Honda logo plastic bag and putting it back on the seat also seems to be common practice. Some of these bikes look mint but have 25000 km plus on the clock.

Oh! So that isn't actually the bike , you've used a picture off the net of a bike in Karachi. Right , got you . Go on , lets see a pic of your actual bike . I bet its a Chinese copy. If it is that would definitely explain the reversed gearbox action. Or maybe its a Pakistan built Atlas Honda one , could be an Indian Hero Honda although I don't think these would find their way to the UK.

I can't wait to to see how this turns out. I've re built eight CGs and all of them had conventional one down , three up gear boxes . This isn't a Chinese replica engine is it ? The side casing appears to say Honda but the crank case and internals might still be Chinese. The bike is in suspiciously good condition for a 19 year old CG. I've heard of Hongda bikes but this might be taking Chinese rip offs to another level. There could be a mystery lurking here.