fastbob

It's got coil packs on it by the sounds.....so I'd swap number 1 with number 4 and see if the problem swaps over. .......However, it does sound like a blocked jet (assuming it's carb and not injected)...... I guess I'm a little behind the times , a coil pack is all the coils and plug caps in one clip on unit I presume, like on a modern car .

Assume nothing, start with the simplest and cheapest things first and make notes . In this case check the ht lead and plug cap before you go pulling the carbs off . Ht leads can break down especially in wet weather.

Who welded what ? Original post was from 2014, fastbob.....I think that's what beefy was suggesting..... Ah ha.

Who welded what ?

Yeah ok,point taken . So has anyone actually watched paint dry ? ......well funny you sh

Do you need any formal training to learn to weld or can you just fool around until you acquire the knack ? I wouldn't fancy finding out how good my welding is while riding at high speed. Regarding equipment, I often see electric welders at car boot sales but I've never bought one mainly because I have a certain fear of electrocuting myself or inadvertently blasting a big hole in the thing I'm trying to repair. I remember many years ago when a friend and I tried to modify a luggage rack using his dads welder. Every time we went to weld it pieces of it just vanished in a blinding flash .

Ok up to a point but how do you know what shim sizes are already in there ? You won't be able to start swapping or replacing until you've seen the values etched onto the existing shims and sometimes they can be very hard to see . Also its not the shims that wear, its the valve seats that "pocket" thus reducing the valve clearances. I do get the point though that sometimes an engine can be re shimmed without having to buy very many shims at all.

As they say, a happy engine is a happy engine. And a flappy tappet is a happy tappet.

The sign for low flying aircraft is a simplified plan view of a De Havilland Comet. That's the airliner not the racer.

This is my favourite, I first saw one of these in Lochinver in Scotland. So who's this guy Derrick?http://i.imgur.com/lg62etn.png I got 10 out of 10 , I thought the explosives one was made up.

My local Halfords doesn't. All they do is carburetor air pipe which may not be fuel resistant. I was quite surprised.Perhaps the larger branches have it in stock but at the smaller ones its available on click and collect according to the website. The one in Leamington did have, though not looked for that since they downsized the store. It is still listed on their web site. Tachbrook Park ? The staff in there are refreshingly helpful for a Halfords.

Do plugs 2 & 3 happen to run off the same coil ? Update, yes they do.

Why not mark the bolt and sump with a dab of yellow paint so you can check to ensure it hasn't moved ? I can fully understand why you want to leave it where it is for now . To loosen or remove it unnecessarily is tempting fate .

My local Halfords doesn't. All they do is carburetor air pipe which may not be fuel resistant. I was quite surprised.Perhaps the larger branches have it in stock but at the smaller ones its available on click and collect according to the website.

Wouldn't I need one for a Yahama FZ6 though? Geniune question, I'm not trying to be funny. Ha ha , sorry mate, got my threads mixed up . Apart from getting the bike wrong I still hope the sump plate does come off with the engine in the frame so that you can give it to an engineer to Helicoil or get a replacement. I bet there are a few FZ6 sump plates available as well. For now though, if the plug tightened up ok then there's nothing to worry about until the next oil change.

How about a Lexmoto sub forum ?

There are 29 various Bandit sumps on the first 4 pages of eBay.

Excellent point, squeeze it and if it snaps or bends easily its definitely stripped sump thread .

Right, ill go with part of a Helicoil as well then. How about an extreme close up ? Best I can do with my lousy camera phone and poor photography skills Ok thanks for that , the bad news first, these now look like ripped out pieces of thread . They have a smooth triangular shape on the inside but are rough and flat on the outside suggesting that they have been broken away from the sump. The good news is that it hasn't already been Helicoiled so that is a repair that a good engineer can easily carry out. I don't know but there is a very good chance that the whole sump casting can be removed with the engine in the frame. If you do remove it this will present a rare opportunity to inspect the oil strainer gause and clean it if necessary,something that very rarely gets done in the life of a bike . An alternative might be to get a sump off eBay.

Ok, it goes like this, open each drain screw one at a time. You will need a long screwdriver to reach the inboard carbs and be sure its a good fit because the screws are soft brass and you don't want to wreck the slots. There will be spillage so its best to do this outside. You can do the next bit two ways . With all the screws still open you can stick it on prime for 5 seconds or so making sure that fuel flows freely from all four carbs . Alternatively you can close all the screws , put it on prime for a minute, switch back to the on position then drain all the bowls again before closing the screws for the final time. After all the spilt petrol has thoroughly evaporated stick it back on prime to fill up the bowls then what you could do is leave it like that for a minute or two to see if any petrol dribbles out . If it does , it hasn't worked. If it doesn't switch back to the on position and go for a few spins around the block. Good luck.

Hold on a minute, what's this thing made of ? It's white right ? So is it metal or plastic? It's metal pieces Right, ill go with part of a Helicoil as well then. How about an extreme close up ?

Stuck float valve I reckon. The smell of petrol,the poor running and the fact that it clears up again when the surplus fuel is burnt off all point to this conclusion . Usually it's a tiny bit of debris behind one float needle. Sometimes you can flush it through by draining the carbs and then putting the tap on prime. Then drain the carbs again to flush it out of the bowls . This isn't 100% reliable but it's worked for me a few times .

You don't have spring washers on sump plugs , how would the sump washer form an oil tight seal ?

Hold on a minute, what's this thing made of ? It's white right ? So is it metal or plastic?

Its not a spring washer , sump plugs don't have spring washers.