Pbassred

the CBR500R does not have bobbin threads. I bought some converters that use the wheel bolt as a mount. However they are not strong enough. After 10 lifts they are giving up I could buy stronger ones but I don't know where from. I could get a pair of threaded sleeves weld to the swing arm as a permanent fix. Has anyone done that before?

DON'T LOOK AT IT!!!! In general, yes the 125 was a great help for me. I rode 2500 miles on it but the most useful part was riding arroud split tennis balls at the local industrial estate. My CBR125R had a grabby clutch so I really had to concentrate in the slow maneuvers. Anyway, from my musical hobbies I learned one important thing:- don't wait until the rehearsal to learn the song. Work up a sweat one the 125. Practice the hardest parts over and over, take a break do it again. Then you develop confidence because you know it inside out. After that the only difference is weight.

I personally didn't need it but there was a kid on my course who struggled with basics of just staying on it and what to do on the road. I asked him if he had a bicycle and he said:- "somewhere!". He didn't pass on the fist day. The only practical thing I would suggest is spend some time on a bicycle - preferably in traffic. Just get used to being on the road and looking around. Try and brake with your right hand

Ditto the above although I don't think it feels small (when I buy a 1000cc I might change that opinion). I think its about how well you fit the bike but its one of the more upright sports bikes. I rode 180mile last Sunday it was fine. There' not much point in comparing it to a larger bike if you only have an A2 licence. Its as big as you can get. One thing about torque - Its the same engine as they fit to the Rebel (different gearing).

The training course? They didn't really know. The insurance company? My last mission for temporary insurance taught me that the call centres only know what they know from their script. What is incredibly complex for one insurer is bread and butter for another. Hence looking for guidance from here. Someone else must have done this.

I'm about to signup for a cornering course. Its not a track day but its not on the public road either. Therefore my insurance won't cover me. I have a friend who did an experience day at silverstone a few years ago. She had a separate bill for insurance. How does that kind of insurance work? Do I speak to my insurer about a blanket - all year upgrade, or single event insurance? Is there a specialist broker or is it just not possible? The irony is that the course is being promoted by Bennets insurance! Sorry if this is in in the wrong section. Its not completly training, track day or general insurance.

RAM mount. Available in lots of places. Not cheap, but its the same logic as your helmet. Cheap phone, cheap mount.

Yes, that what I was thinking - except not black, but I'm talking myselt out of it. I would be arriving at work and needing to remove/store 2 sets of clothing. Waterproofs over leathers would be silly. so I'm probably back to textiles probably ...... except. I have a sports bike (not aggressive but still...). will the really proof jackets be ok to wear, or will the style be too upright for my riding position?

So, are you guys suggesting a complete solution armoured water proof jacket or waterproof over what I have?

I do 10 miles down the Motorway and another 15 through London. I already have a leaky Frank Thomas suit (I have a post elseware. I think "water proof" means "doesn't desolve"). I could just buy a waterproof 1 piece to go over the top, or buy a complete better fabric suit. I think I need to upgrade soon anyway but I don't know which way to go. I suppose I could even go to full leather and then buy a water proof over the top. What do you diehard commuters have in your wardrobe?

First rule of driving is drive on the left. After that its up for grabs. My first rule of driving is don't get hit. That's in any vehicle. Ultimately its about give and take. If you saw some of the Sh!t some riders pull on the North Circular every morning you might think they owe a few favors. Balance that with people who give you space when the don't have to. There is little point in insisting on the rules of the road, curtesy, or even not being a twat. Just look 10 seconds ahead and don't get hit.

I'm thinking of buying something cooler than textile trousers for around town. Preferably removable pads.

GSX 750 as a first bike. No one else thinks that's unwise?

Here's the thing about cycle lanes ( a diversion from the topic, but since we're here....) They built them wrong ..... and dangerous... and irrelevant. Firstly they built the cycle lanes next to or even over existing pavement. The general public uses them as pavement. When you have 3 abreast push chairs a 8 year olds playing tag, that's a real problem. Many have concrete paving slabs built in with moulded tram lines in the direction of travel - That's specifically dangerous for handling. Many are even "shared access". How do you share space between pedestrians and bikes? On top of that, they are not wide enough for 2 bikes to pass each other in opposite directions. They are irrelevant for sports cyclists or anyone aiming to actually GO somewhere because those riders ride too fast for them to be of any use. You really need to ride a bicycle to appreciate their crapness. No, The councils did that on the cheap to get a headline. Hence why they aren't maintained. You don't make political capital from maintenance. You're better off on the road. Oddly enough the ones in London work quite well They pay the same "ROAD FULL LICENCE" as electric cars. Next time a car driver gets run over by a bicycle do let me know. Can we stop hating on bikes now. The arguments are old, stupid and wrong. We all use the road. Start hating pizza delivery riders for making us look bad instead.

Use of cycle lanes is not compulsory even when signed with a blue circle. Its around rule 60 in the highway code. Some do. Most don't. A bit like car drivers.

.... or an airfield. not a track but somewhere empty and flat where you can put cones down and practice away from traffic. Industrial estates are fine for Mod 1 but somewhere a little bigger for slightly faster turns. Perhaps there already is, but how do you find them?

Apparently "Sting" is taken.

Different rubbers have different properties. One would HOPE that a chain made for bikes would be petrochemical resistant, but then we live in a world of Chinese assembly. Who knows if they are following a standard!

So, We mostly like Gear oil (its in the manual). We mostly clean with paraffin (kerosene is very similar). The reason why I was suggesting mixing paraffin with the oil is very old school:- When I was an apprentice (in the 70s ), we used to preserve metal parts like that. It creeps everywhere. You only need a thin film since its not actually lubricating. Then again, if you cleaned your chain in paraffin, you just mixed it into the oil, so that's probably enough. The plus side is that you haven't drenched your de-greased chain in water.

Revzilla recommends Kerosene for chains. Not much difference.

Having transferred over from man-powered cycling last year I'm a little surprised that chain oil isn't a big deal. In cycling its a REALLY big deal. Anyway Ryan F9 dropped a chain lube comparison recently and made the observation that in modern O-ring chains, the lubrication is internal. The lubricant is mostly for anti corrosion. In cycling they are really concerned with dirt pickup since it makes an abrasive paste, so they want a thin coat of light oil ( not sticky). Why aren't motor cycle chains thought about the same way? a really thin coat of light oil that is just enough to fight corrosion but not enough to fly off. I'm inclined to mix gear oil with paraffin. Goes on easy and leaves a coating behind when the paraffin evaporates away. also less to clean off (with paraffin). thoughts?

I don't know if a school will let you use their bike for only one MOD. They want to get a whole course worth of cash out of you.

Sorry What? Cars get jump-started all the time when the leave their lights on. Now:- flattening the battery is not good for it, but the bike has an alternator. It might only put out about 5 Amps and your battery might be a 10 Amp hour battery, but of course it charges. Its just not magic. Do the maths. A 5A alternator takes 2 hour of completely charge a 10 Amp/hour battery.

I got a bunch of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/LAAT-Lightweight-Fashion-Stylus-Capacitive/dp/B071ZPMRML/ref=pd_vtph_lp_img_3/259-7521704-2739806?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071ZPMRML&pd_rd_r=87d5075e-6f76-11e9-b7ed-b1ecbd8ebec9&pd_rd_w=cLE28&pd_rd_wg=JnQrB&pf_rd_p=eb02db1b-a172-4b0e-887c-299e5e502bb0&pf_rd_r=75X35EFN3NME5YZ4JBGT&psc=1&refRID=75X35EFN3NME5YZ4JBGT On Ebay. I also learned to voice dial from my Cardo and then that the "phone" symbol cancels the call. I still need to use the stylus (and pull over) to change albums though.

I see a lot of videos where they say to warm up the bike before draining the oil. I don't get it. It makes the oil drain out quicker? yes, but not much. lets the dirt fall down quicker? if its a cold bike, its already at the bottom. If I start the bike it all goes to the top again. so.......