Pbassred

I have a superb Richa Gortex jacket and Dianese pants (couldn't get matching) they are both good at what they do but they both have drawbacks despite each being more than twice your budget. My previous set was Frank Thomas that was in you budget but leaked like a sieve! Having lived through last summer in Heavy Gortex I thinking that I could have gone another way. Buy a mesh jacket for the armor and a cheap water proofs over the top. With some warm clothes underneath, you're good to go. Which ever way you go, I'll misquote the cyclists mantra:- durable, waterproof and cheap - pick any 2.

I tried disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU, but that wasn't it. I reversed the PAIR and flapper valve mods and It thing that got it. It starts unaided, but its supposed to idle at 2000RPM until it warms up and settles to 1200. Its more like 2400. I didn't notice that before. When the weather improves I might see which of the mods makes the difference. Its odd that other people haven't see this though.

Where is that?

VFR800 Vtec 2011 At start up it coughs and runs rough. It needs a little throttle to even keep running. After 30 seconds it will run independently @9500RPM and as it gets a little heat on it clears itself an runs at 2000, which is the intended cold RPM setting. from 35°C to 50°C it gradually winds down and ticks over at 1200°C sweet as a nut. Other than the some coughing at 3000 (filtering) and sometimes a flat spot accelerating gently through 3000, it runs ok. I've had the VFR for about 6 weeks or 2000miles. This started about 3 weeks ago. I ran some fuel system cleaner through it and it seems better but started again. It could be electrical but why only at cold? Full disclaimer:- I did the PAIR and flapper mod a couple of weeks ago and I could easily undo then but I don't see what difference they would make to start-up. Any ideas?

Please explain how sitting on a motor cycle is different. Last time I looked I had the same a$$, my feet were at the same position and so were my hands. Just.... wrong in every respect. Blood does not flow through you sit bones. One of the things cyclists work on is to NOT waste energy by moving around on the saddle. Insufficient blood flow is THE major issue hence cutouts and short saddles. Cyclists DO shop for different saddles but the starting points are body angle and sit bone width.

Its possible that I am an odd shape but I don't think so. When I first sat on a sports bike the guy in the store was surprised that a guy in his 50s (late starter) would think that the body position was OK. Since I had been riding road bikes it seemed the same to me. Now, it has been puzzling me for some time that whenever motorcycle riders talk about sore backsides the solution is always more padding, gel padding and wider seats. In cycling its recognized that this is absolutely the wrong way to go. They have to sit for hours at a time and peddle. You see, humans plant themselves on areas know as "sit bones" ( co-incidence?). That's where all of the weight is supported. Not the thighs or the fleshy bits and definitely not the sensitive bits. When I rode the VFR for the first time (3 hour delivery ride home), what struck me was the way the wide saddle dug into my thighs compared to the CBR. Now that I'm looking at ways to lower it, some people are suggesting shaving the saddle - downwards. They might be right, but I'll start with the padding on the thighs and possibly scoop out the middle. Maybe saddles should be more human shaped. Taking away instead of adding is something to consider If you're looking for comfort.

When I wrote "rolled" I meant barrel rolled. I.e On an uneven surface and very upright.

Nah! I'f it were me I have designed a couple of mm shorter in the first place. Its partly because of the uneven ground outside where I live. I've already had one bike roll off its stand there. (gotta love frame sliders)

I'm seriously considering dropping my suspension but only by 20mm. This part I haven't figured out is the side-stand. I could cut 20mm of the bottom and get a plate welded on, but has anyone tried those adjustable ones?

Lexmoto is best bang for buck but budget. Nothing wrong with that if the base metal is cheese, anything you coat it with is throwing good money after bad. If that's the only thing wrong with the bike, are there aftermarket pipes?

Our 1-year-old cat died a horrible death late last year due to what the vet can only assume was anti-freeze ingestion. Gawd knows where he found it, but mine is kept sealed in the garage on a high shelf. Took him to the vet, the vet thought he'd likely ingested a spider or poisonous bug due to the time of year and bugs slowing down. Next morning we found him lying in a pool of his own vomit and excrement barely able to lift his head. Took him back to the vet, he spent an agonising 2 hours there waiting for blood samples to come back, everything was off the charts. They put him out of his misery as soon as the results came in. It's hard enough with a cat, I wouldn't want to contemplate a child going through that! I'm also sorry to read that. Actually I think that is is very ON topic. What I have found out since starting this thread is that there are 2 main types of glycol. Ethylene and propylene. Ethylene is sweet to the taste and toxic. There are petitions to ban it. Propylene is far less toxic and not palatable. It is readily available in the UK. In fact I just used Silkolene in my bike and it is labeled "non-toxic". Ethylene IS apparently used in de-icing fluid. If you want irony, I remember in the 70s when Methanol anti freeze became popular. It used to boil off resulting in over heating problems. Glycol was marketed as "safer".

I asked my local mechanics about it for the 16K service and he said don't bother - maybe at 32K but never seen a wrong one. Actually I was finishing up the coolant fill and a neighbor came over. Apparently he has also owned 3 and told be a story about his attempt to get his valves looked at. The guy said; "see that shelf with the dusty boxes? That's where we keep the replacement shims."

No! I wasn't saying I use it as a track tool. Only that the previous owner wore the tires evenly as if it had been on the track. I mostly commute on it It does a low of mid to low speed.

Its not a squared off tyre. In fact its completely evenly worn as if its been used as a track bike. It IS an old Road 2 tyre though so I'll put a Road 5 on it soon. As for suspension; it arrived with 45 mm of rear sag I gave it a couple more clicks in but I didn't recheck. It does do the petulant teenager thing though. On the CBR I had to push harder to lean harder. On this I have to push hard to start the roll and then it just ....... goes.

VFR800 Vtec. Did the "Pair mod" "flapper" the snorkel and the fan reverse mod. plus R&G frame sliders. Its turned my snarling buckey heavy beast into a snarling ...... pussycat.

I've given it another click of preload. We'll see.

An unusual sensation that I have had lately is the rear of the bike falling away on turns. I'm not riding hard and not any more than minimal power. Certainly more gently with the VFR than the the CBR500. The only real difference between them is the weight and the size of the rear tire. I've felt it a couple of times now. I understand that leaning a bike make the RPM increase, but gradual sliding?

Well, I got the fairings off and ......The bottle is full. I'm going to do an engine flush and change the coolant. It might warrant another thread but what its doing is getting to 106°C at 30 - 40mph urban cruising.The fan cuts it and out. When It gets to 6000RPM it cools right down to 85° in 1/2 a mile.

Yeah. I have thought about putting tape over the key rubbing areas of the tank and sitting the cover over that.

Yeah that's a concept. The major bike dealer is actually merely incompetent. Its better than a broken bike but I wonder what else they didn't do (or do right). Anyway I found a Honda dealer on my way home tonight and bought enough for a complete fill. VFR coolant is BLUE! apparently. Covers off tomorrow and investigate. The good news is that the dealer said he had no experience of head gasket failure and there is no coolant on the concrete floor so unless its boiling off, it seems like it was never there. so ...... there's blue, red, propylene and ethylene. Does price matter?

Its really difficult to check without removing the fairings, but It was either very full or very empty because couldn't see the level. I know about blue (old) and red coolant (new). Its a 2011 bike so I imagine it should need red coolant ....... except there is a blue hue to the bottle.

Last night I looked at the coolant level on my new to me VFR 800 Vtec. Very low and I didn't check it when I picked it up fron the dealer 1000miles ago. So did they check it? change it? Is it drinking it? I don't know although they allegedly serviced it. Anyway I either need to top it up or drain/refill. Is Halfords coolant any different to Honda's or any other?

I'm not sure if they can confiscate your camera. Since you have the right to remain silent, that must go for any other self-generated evidence. (?) You could use your own camera for legal defence or prosecuting others. I could be wrong.

I wonder if he's ok.

Hang on a minute. How did this pop up like a current thread?